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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/15/2021 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    From the good doctor: Good questions. Etching for the most part is chemical break down of paint. When bird poop or bug guts are left on paint the acids and enzymes in these products will break down paint over time and sun light will accelerate it. The haziness or cloudiness is basically broken down clear coat paint. Etching from water spots is due to the caustic nature of sodium and calcium silicates and phosphates breaking down paint and leaving residue on the surface. With ceramic coated cars there is no break down of paint since acids, enzymes, or caustics can not penetrate the surface of ceramic clear coat. There is only some staining or residue left that needs to be removed or dissolved. For ceramic coated cars after removing the bird droppings and bug guts which are organic just leaving the stain in sun light will cause UV to break down the stains which disappear after a few days. With water spots which are inorganic it has to be dissolved chemically or removed mechanically to get the stains out.
  2. 4 points
    Setec Astronomy


    I was oleophobic for a while. But then I switched to mostly olive oil.
  3. 3 points
    Like the title says, I recently got my first order of Optimum polishes, beinig Hyper compound (A GALLON!) and intensive polish. My experience is limited to using Mezerna 300 and the new Rupes line-up for the past year, for about 40 cars or so. So first time using Optimum polish; HOLY $#@&! A totally different experience, MUCH easier to work with. Where the traditional polishes are often difficuilt to evenly spread around, and can dry out or dust, OPT polishes are amazingly foolproof. I genuinly think it cuts my polishing time in half, or even more. Very easy to spread, easy wipe-off, great working time, little dusting (hyper compound MF Pad), fast application, to name a few. My IK trigger sprayer did seem to struggle a bit with Hyper compound. Haven't compared cut yet, but you can feel the grit in the Hyper Compound. The car I worked on today had basically unscratchable paint. Hyper Compound on a 6' MF Pad, XFE 7-15 speed 3, didn't do a lot. On the black pillars, it did cut very well. I was flying over the car, this is a(nother) game-changer for me. Thank you, Dr. G!
  4. 2 points
    TPC update - almost 3 months after application. The product is still there, in spite of monsoon weather this spring! The tires with blotchy appearance are still blotchy, but there is a shine that's more than normal. The last set of tires with a more perfected process still have good gloss and no signs of the dreaded red splotches. After a light ONR wipe they look like just treated rubber. That saves me from having to mess with tires....a very good thing in my book!
  5. 2 points

    New Formula No Rinse Review

    (New formula) No rinse works great on bugs too! Just ONR @2561:1, Ultra Black Sponge, TRC Double Twistress and OCW as a drying aid. Just a rinseless wash, no pre-rinse, on a hot car in 25°C, fully in the sun. Most of the bugs came off with the towel. For the rest of the car, just took it slow and worked panel for panel, came out looking great. For the wheels, which weren't that dirty, OPC @6:1, brush with TRC W&B Brush dipped in ONR, wiped with a towel. Followed by OPT Tire Shine. No streaks, smears or watermarks. Awesome! Both of the cars washed this way:
  6. 1 point

    Product Test - 303 Graphene

    My exposure to 303 Graphene's limited (used it on "dealer applied" ceramic coating as dealer coating didn't work all that well., and also tried 303 on some other glass/plastic surfaces). Scratched surfaces immediately became stained thanks to graphene parking itself in the scratches. Water beading and gloss were OK but nothing to be super hyped about. Local detailer wasn't impressed by 303, which he removed along with all other coatings on my car to apply Pro+. A Youtube detailer, Scott HD, found 303 Graphene's only moderately durable, also remarking that 303 Graphene had a bad production batch (which mine was part of) that had some impact on durability. I've been trying Hyper-Seal on some "off-label" ceramic surfaces and so far it's performed better than products like NuFinish Ceramic or TurtleWax Seal&Shine.
  7. 1 point

    MINI detailing

    Took care of the MINI today. Topped it off with Optiseal and about an hour later when over it with OID.
  8. 1 point

    MINI detailing

    the beauty of Minis - fun car and easy to maintain. Combination of Opti-Seal and Instant Detailer is killer!
  9. 1 point
    Gumby Sauce

    Is it ok to mix ONR and OCW?

    Thanks for the replies everyone, much appreciated. I think I will get a small bottle of ONR and OCW for now, using them separately with ONR as a wash first and a drying aid with the OCW. I will get a big bottle of the new ONRWW when it comes out, because that sounds like my ideal product! I had a read about both the Power Clean and Ferrex for the wheels and they both sound good, so will give them a go too. Cheers
  10. 1 point
    Detail Mutant

    Is it ok to mix ONR and OCW?

    For wheels that are especially dirty and/or do not have a ceramic coating, it is best to perform initial wash with an APC (Power Clean in the case of Optimums line as stated by Ron), Typically Power Clean diluted at 3:1 to 5:1 is most appropriate for exterior surfaces. I personally prefer to use P&S Brake Buster instead of Power Clean as it contains a rust inhibitor. Not quite as effective at cleaning (especially tires) such that I typically use it at 1:1 to 2:1 dilution ratio but it also costs half as much as Power Clean. I have noticed significant less rust build up on the rotors after drying when using Brake Buster (slightly dulled versus deep orange).
  11. 1 point

    ONR vs new products

    It seems like (due to marketing) the hype, if you will, has lessened a bit with optimum, at least that’s what YouTube would have me believe. I have watched a lot of reviews on other products, most comparing to ONR, and the biggest ones that seem to be claimed as ‘better’ seem to revolve around Yvan now promoting a competing product. I’m new to the optimum consumer line, and I continue to be impressed with ONR and OCW. With ONR specifically I haven’t tried any competitors, because it’s affordable and works exactly as it’s supposed to, so I’m not honestly sure what ‘better’ would look like. It’s tried and true and just works! I’m looking at my gallon of car was soap and wondering what I’m going to do with it as I think I did my last traditional wash today, hopefully ever (so much work, so much stuff!). I think with ONR people have gotten wrapped up with the lubricity feeling with the wash media. Thinking that another one is better because it feels more slick. That not necessarily true, as we know, and unless ONR is scratching, then it must be slick enough! I have yet to really see someone complain about scratches with ONR in any of the reviews I’ve read or watched. It’s hard to see a company as trendy and popular when they don’t have a steady stream of new products for you tubers to play with. It’s so easy to get the itch to constantly use something different. It is something that makes this a good trustworthy company though, IMO.
  12. 1 point
    Spray Wax as clay lube is equally effective, whether you're using a bar, mitt, or towel. I would spray in a broad pattern, then run the bar over the area. Do you mean Wax residue or ONR? I would at least wipe the area to make sure the wax is spread evenly and avoid streaking.
  13. 1 point

    Opti-Coat Pro3

    Clearcoat is generally 1.5 to 2 mils thick, not microns. These are often confused. A mil is a thousandth of an inch and a micron is a millionth of a meter (thousandth of a milimeter). 1.5 to 2 mils is about 35 to 50 microns. Also it's not necessary to remove 2 microns before application, but 1 or 2 microns might be removed when doing a once-over polish with something like hyper polish. Hope that helps! I just heard about Opti-Coat 3 and am excited to try some out for my clients.
  14. 1 point
    I think you'll find that car shampoo/ONR will not remove some of the contaminates that can accumulate on paint. For decontamination, the products Yvan uses are for specific purposes (paint prep for wax/sealants, MDR for minerals/water spots, FerreX for brake dust/ferrous metals, etc). Power Clean is more of a generic, all purpose cleaner that does a decent job on everything, and is a product you can find many uses for. The Optimum Wheel Brush is soft but I'm still more comfortable with the BRS - No Soap is correct, it's the safest media I know of, not only due to it's inherent softness, but because the dirt is captured in it's cross cuts and away from the paint. Just be sure to deep clean the sponge periodically.
  15. 1 point
    The 2 ways to decontaminate paint are correct. Remember, the need to decontaminate varies based on driving conditions & maintenance....it's not necessary every year on a predetermined schedule. I agree that chemical decontam is safer but more product/labor intensive. The clay towel (IMO) is less likely to mar than clay bar and the use of wax as lube (along with the extra hardness of coating) really reduces the chance of damage. In general, Yvan's comment that clay is likely to mar and needs to be polished is more directed towards clay bar on clear coat (not OCP) and may be to protect from complaints.
  16. 1 point


    Again Off-topic on the Rags to Riches as MF Detergent. Smells nicer, seems to leave no residue (smell) on the towels. However, have not noticed a difference in hydrophobicity, and it does a worse job on stains it seems. Compared to Power Clean.
  17. 1 point

    Hello from PR

    Welcome to the Optimum Forum - lots of good information here and excellent posters!