Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/23/2022 in all areas

  1. 3 points

    Gloss coat

    Gloss coat still going strong after a year through a Canadian winter in Ontario Canada. Did a thorough decon wash to revive the coating. The beading and sheating was flat on the lower panels. Did the following steps. foamed with optimum car wash-pressure rinsed off onr wash wit ubs Sprayed opc on vehicle-agitated with dampened onr microfibre towel then rinse applied iron remover then agitated with a clay towel. Rinsed off apply mineral deposit remover with dampened onr microfibre towel. Rinse The beading and sheating have been fully restored! Completed with onr wash with opti seal as a drying aid
  2. 2 points
    you were close, in a couple of weeks we'll be introducing the Optimum DA21E3 as the replacement for Zentool. I'll get info on any upgrades/improvements in the new tool.
  3. 2 points


    It took me a long ass time to buy GPS after owning the entire Hyper collection + poli-seal. GPS was the last piece that was missing in my collection and once I saw that my car stuff supplier put a 40% discount on it I pulled the trigger and bought it for a measly 15 euros 😜 Anyways...yesterday I took my time, washed the car with ONR, clayed with a clay towel and used a iron remover as a lubricant and then went into action and polished my "not so new anymore used car". Its white so it hides swirls well and I havent gotten around to remove them yet until now. I used GPS on a mf cutting pad and on some areas a CG green hex logic pad. The polish was great...its nice to work with and by my estiment it removed around 65% of the swirls and cleaned up the paint really well. It left behind a really shinny and slick surface on its own. It actually made white paint reflect like glass which doesnt happen often. I did however later top it with Wowos crystal sealant just for the sake of it. here are some pics Great stuff from OPT once again 👍
  4. 2 points

    Optimum Protectant Plus Results

    I've been using Protectant plus for a while now. Love the smell, love the look (most of the times) and the ease of use. Mostly I've used it with the Opti-Bond gun on exterior, interior and engine bay plastics. Leaves a great finishes that really darkens the surface. Today I used it with a spray bottle and MF towel on a scooter with plastics and leather. I sprayed a bit on the MF towel and wiped the surfaces for some nice 50/50's: Nice! After wiping the whole surface again, the finish was completely even. There was bit of plastic on the exhaust where Protectant Plus wouldn't work. No difference visible! It just evaporated completely, even after wiping it multiple times.
  5. 1 point


    The 15E is being discontinued but the 12E (Mini) will be replaced by an improved Optimum DA.
  6. 1 point


    Optimum is going to start a FAQ segment here, to respond to those basic questions that come up all the time. We're starting with responses from Dr G to a customer on a variety of subjects: 1) A strong but gentle one-step interior cleaner that leaves protection: OPC at around 5:1 does great cleaning dirty interiors, but I frequently don't want a two-step process that requires me to then apply Protectant. And I find Opti-clean not strong enough sometimes. Do you think mixing Opti-clean, Optimum Protectant and Power Clean is a good solution, and if so, at what ratio would you experiment? In most cases you can use Optimum Protectant Plus to clean and protect in one step. For more soiled leather and other interior surfaces most professional detailers spray Power Clean at 1:5 dilution on the surface and then spray Protectant Plus on top of it before wiping it down in a combined one step process. 2) Wheel cleaner: I can find no exact combination from Optimum I like so I end up buying a dedicated wheel cleaner... Powerclean dries too quickly and seems to not have enough lubrication or "weight" to handle the dirty BMW and Porsche wheels. Could I emulate a spray-on cleaner that dwells and cleans by mixing straight Power clean concentrate with some Car Wash and Opti-clean for additional dwell time and lubricity/suds, and/or maybe with some of your Iron Remover? Iron remover has good cling, but insufficient cleaning vs a dedicated product like p21s. We are in the process of changing the sprayer for Power Clean to a foamer which will improve the dwell time and clinging of Power Clean. You can also combine Power Clean with FerreX to increase cleaning and dwell time as well. 3) I like using various of your products as a drying aid, but my expensive towels get clogged up eventually. What is the best way to completely remove dried Opti-seal and OCW from towels? I am okay with a multi-step process if needed. Most detergents such as Tide that are used in the washing machine should remove waxes and oils from your microfiber towels. For greater cleaning you can use a solution of Power Clean diluted in water to presoak your towels before putting them in the washing machine. Another suggestion is to add 1/4 cup of Power Clean to the wash. 4) I have been experimenting with Adam's new ceramic/graphene coating on some things because of their longevity claims, but I would rather use yours. Do you have consumer products that should have the longevity of their newest graphene products? For the best performance and longevity as well as ease of application I would recommend Opti-Coat Hyper Seal which has ceramic resins and can be applied while drying your car. 5) I know this has been asked a million times, but for a really dirty car, do you think a traditional wash with your car wash is safer than ONR? And if the car is really dirty would you still stick with 256:1, or go with a different ratio like 100:1? And/or just mix Optimum Car Wash with some ONR? I am not concerned about saving money by using less product... We have washed cars with several months of dirt buildup with the same dilution of 256:1 No Rinse with great results. If the car has too much dirt build up or caked on mud, then we would recommend pre-rinsing with a hose/power washer to remove the excess dirt or mud and then use No Rinse which would not require rinsing afterwards but still provides the lubricity and protection that car washes don't. You can use up to 1 oz. No Rinse if you want to increase the lubricity and dirt encapsulation, however I would not use higher concentrations since it can cause streaking. 6) Is there a dilution of ONR, like say 4:1, that would be a good paint-prep/cleaner before applying a coating? Or does it not work that way and/or leave too much stuff behind to be a good paint-prep? I have your dedicated paint-prep spray, but it seems like if I have missed any dirt that there would be too little protection and cleaning from that to avoid scratches after a decontamination process. You can use No Rinse at 8 oz. to a gallon of water which is the quick detailer ratio as your prep solution, however Paint Prep does a better job of preparing the painted surfaces for bonding of a wax or coating.
  7. 1 point

    ONR vs Car Wash

    Optimum does not recommend one product over the other for ceramic maintenance. Car Wash is a superior performing wash product with neutral pH that does not strip wax but captures dirt allowing it to be rinsed away in the traditional way.
  8. 1 point


    The new formula Gloss-Coat has increased ceramic polymers that improve it's scratch/mar resistance, UV protection, and chemical resistance. Increased release properties allow it to shed dirt and other contaminates more easily, staying cleaner and making washing easier.
  9. 1 point


    With only an 8% chance of rain forecasted for Saturday I figured I’d be ok. Nope. It rained 24 hours later which isn’t ideal but shouldn’t hurt it. 2 coats an hour apart. Prepped with HP and Paint Prep. I likely did not use enough product though. I only ended up using 8cc's. Very hydrophobic. Looks great and was super easy to use.