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  1. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Optimum's Company Mentality

    Tug, more accurately Dr G is not your traditional CEO. Over the years David has been offered partnerships, venture capital, asked to sell product to Walmart, Autozone, etc and has always walked away. I've worked with many business owners over the years, he has a unique mentality - he's not "all about the benjamins". I've never known him to cheat a vendor, stretch accounts payable, or be unethical in any way. As has been pointed out, he could make more money/increase sales if he increased marketing (including hyping products), added unneeded line proliferation just to expand sales, relabeled products, or reduced quality. Optimum has relabeled products, but when asked to reduce quality to increase profitability, he refused (I was in that conversation). We could increase sales if Optimum opened up sales of Pro products to the public, but David feels so much loyalty to you guys, he won't do it. He takes his time bringing new products to market (to my frustration sometimes), because he continues to test and have others beta test, until he's confident in the quality. David is a very private man and HATES it when people compliment him, but I've known him for 16 years at different degrees of closeness (ironically, I don't work for him and never have) and haven't met a more honest, ethical, or flat out smarter man. Not only is he a chemical genius, but he has a prodigious memory...he certainly remembers every mistake I've made! Dr G IS Optimum-
  2. 1 point
    Tug Bankert

    OC 3

    It beads up just like every other coating video
  3. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    OC 3

    according to Dr G, additional layers of ceramic coating ensure complete coverage and may increase gloss, but do not change hardness/chemical resistance/durability.
  4. 1 point
    Tug Bankert

    Opti-Coat Pro3

    Autokosmetik, I'm not sure if you really understood what Ron or us installers have said. I suspect you are slightly delusional when it comes to what marketing is or opti coats approach to their coatings. Each installer is responsible for reaching their audience. We do not try and reach the masses. We focus on our areas. If an installer chooses to do comparisons and test and so forth, they may be doing exaclty that. You may not have come across their videos or blogs. I have many blogs explaining things in detail about coatings, clear coat, polishing, etc. You have probably not read them. The info is out there and you may not have been exposed to it. As to sales of opti coatings, I believe Ron said that they are up and doing well. I have a feeling that the reason is due to opti installers educating their customers. Your thinking behind the marketing strategy you and bcwang mentioned would reach a very small percentage of people. As a result of going after that small group, the amount of money spent and work done would not be worth it. So how do we market to the average person which is who will pay our bills and not the guy who wants to "handle" the coating? We tell them a coating saves time and money because it's easy to clean. This is how I sell my pro, etc. Most people understand this. I would lose many over the conversation of how these beads stood taller than that bead or this coating is shinier than that one. That will reach the small percentage of people, as in, about 1 out of 10 and the other 9 out of 10 would never listen to all of that nonsense. That's exaclty what beads and gloss discussion is..a waste of time. Pro is hard, slick and glossy, easy to clean. Pro Plus is slicker, glossier and easy to clean. Pro 3 with plus on top is harder thicker, slicker and easier to clean than pro or pro plus. This model works as a selling point on how my customers choose which one. Price is the biggest factor to determine which one is best and which one my customers will get.
  5. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    OC 3

    I'm glad Tug made the point about layering - when Pro+ or OC3 are applied you call that layering since they go on separately, but after they bond it's not layers in the traditional sense. The products become one with the clear coat with no discernible differences and that's why OC is so durable.
  6. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    OC 3

    Tug, always appreciate your Pro insights. I have not tested OC3 yet (Dr G promises to install on my new car, but I don't get to Memphis often). There are a lot of characteristics expected of ceramic coatings, including durability, UV protection, chemical resistance, hardness, gloss, slickness, etc. The chemistry to make all this happen sometimes works at cross purposes - the conflict between SiC and Si02. Optimum's original ceramic was durable (still on cars 14 years later), hard, and chemically resistant, but it wasn't as "shiny" and slick as some others on the market. The Si02 components in competitors made them shiny and slick but reduce durability, hardness, and resistance, requiring re-application/reloading. Even though pro installers don't even touch cars (slickness), customers wanted those features, so Dr G formulated Plus. The effort to be all things to all people would give Dr G grey hair, if he wasn't bald!
  7. 1 point
    Even applying Opti-Seal every two weeks, the bottle will still last years.
  8. 1 point
    and I have lots of answers, thanks to Dr G! One commenter believed GC would last "forever" if you keep topping it off with HS. Gloss-Coat can last indefinitely with regular application of Hyper Seal (forever is a long time...) I questioned what causes a coating to break down, is it the bond to the paint or external wear, or both? Mostly from washing and additionally from UV breakdown Others questioned if HS will crosslink with GC seeing they are related products. They should how does the gloss and slickness of HS compare to OCW? Gloss and slickness is greater than OCW Can you also confirm the ph resistance range of GC and HS? 4-10 I know Yvan would also say Opti-coat is resistant to ph 0 - 14, not sure if the same if true of GC. It is not, one of the advantages of pro products is greater chemical resistance.
  9. 1 point
    Redgrandam

    OCW + Opti-Seal Overkill?

    I personally prefer the look and water behaviour of OCW. Opti seal works well as a drying aid so I use it sometimes for that, but generally use OCW as a drying aid every time and never bother to apply it dry. (Washing is every week or two). from what I have read you can go back and forth between the two with no issues. They work great together.
  10. 1 point
    Tug Bankert

    Yvan Retiring?

    Exactly, not all clear coat even needs to be polished, due to a lack of oxidation or lights swirls or the fact that it was built a week ago. PP helps to level the coating as well. Coatings love clean paint and don't need to be scratch free. Clean over scratch free is preferred.
  11. 1 point
    paulgyro

    Yvan Retiring?

    Great! Exactly what I was thinking. Extra safety factor to be sure. After spending all this time and money you want to THE BEST results.
  12. 1 point
    KIS76@

    NEW FORMULA HYPER SEAL

    Good to know, thanks Mark. I'm thinking of upgrading to Hyper-Seal. Liking the Opti-Seal but want something more hydrophobic and durable.
  13. 1 point
    AMarkham40

    NEW FORMULA HYPER SEAL

    Back in April when I initially applied Hyper Seal (2 coats) over bare prepped paint it had a grabby feel to it the following day. Ron said the slickness should increase with additional use since he recommended using it as a drying aid. I've washed my truck 4 times since then & used as a drying aid each time. The slickness is definitely better. I would say it's close but not as slick as Opti-Seal. The beading & self cleaning abilities blow OCW & Opti-Seal out the water though. I recently took a road trip & the front of my truck along with the windshield were covered in splattered bugs. Yesterday I drove 5 minutes through a heavy rain shower & 95% of them were gone. The beading is excellent also. Extremely tight beads compared to OCW & Opti-Seal.
  14. 1 point
    Thanks for the reply, I did do this today including your method. Sprayed down with OPC, agitated with ONR damp microfiber. The results were crazy, the paint was stripped of all past waxes/sealants. Keep in mind this thing had Seal N Shine, Collinite 845, and a host of other various spray waxes and toppers. When I rinsed the car it was clearly stripped of protection. This is the first time I’ve dried my car and had the towel drag/stick a bit since there was literally nothing on the clear coat, amazing! Followed up with ONR wash and dry. DA polish with black pad and some synthetic spray sealant to protect. Great results.
  15. 1 point
    bcwang

    Water Beading

    I agree the beading from OP is pretty weak. I don’t think optiseal is a strong beader though. Glosscoat on the other hand is amazing as seen here on my car.
  16. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Brand new car headlights

    From Dr G - Opti-Lens bonds to the coating on top of the lens, however if the coating has already oxidized then you have to remove it before applying Opti-Lens. If on the other hand the coating is new and not oxidized then you can apply Opti-Lens on top of it to prevent oxidation. That is why there are two different answers depending on the condition of the headlight.
  17. 1 point
    you are confusing seal with polish, they are very different products. Polish has abrasives that correct marring, scratches, etc. Seal (and wax) are purely protection with no correction. You use polish to fix the paint and sealant to protect it after correction. Not to confuse, but GPS is a combination, sometimes called a "cleaner wax" in that it is a light polish for minor marring, fills small imperfections, and leaves sealant behind. For your purpose, GPS will remove water spots and minor marring, and can be used by hand. For additional long term protection, after buffing off GPS, you can coat with Opti-Seal. You probably don't need something as aggressive as Intensive Polish, which will remove serious scratches but really requires a machine (and experience).
  18. 1 point
    For the OPC (step #2), I would recommend agitating the OPC on the painted surfaces before rinsing off. Just spraying on and rinsing off will only remove the weakest of wax/sealants. My preferred method of agitating is using ONR soaked high quality microfiber towel (70/30 polyamide mix and at least 400 GSM). My preferred towel for this agitation process is The Minx Royal from the Rag Company. It has unique weave that makes it feel like a sponge (and very soft) when soaked in ONR. The agitation with ONR soaked towel will help neutralize the OPC so that less water is required to rinse the vehicle as well. If the vehicle is exposed to road salt, I would also recommend MDR for the lower panels as OPC alone is not affective in removing the salt buildup.
  19. 1 point
    Tug Bankert

    Clear Coat Restorer CCR

    Clear coat restorer is an amazing innovative product. I have been using it since it came out. I did my first full vehicle a few weeks ago. A block 2010 Mazda CX-9 with heavy oxidation and scratches. I knew that CCR filled in and covered scratches but the percentage that it covered was way more than I ever would have thought. The really amazing thing is that I would have had to do a paint correction to restore the paint and with not enough clear coat to do that I would have produced decent results but removed even more clear leading to failure. The amount of money this saves in not having to repaint or even spending hours doing a pc is mind boggling. This would be a great way to sell it to your customers. If you haven't tried this product I would recommend buying it and doing so. There is a learning curve as it takes much practice to begin to master it. It reacts differently to each vehicle it is applied to. I will be coating the ccr in a few days with Pro plus and I cant wait for 30 days after to see the results. Let me know if any one has and ccr stories or info to share. Thanks
  20. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Clear Coat Restorer CCR

    it should bond to new paint (clear coat IS paint, only without pigment and with anti-oxidizing characteristics).
  21. 1 point
    Power Clean is a good all purpose decontaminating product and will remove wax/sealant. Paint Prep is also good for removing wax. Polishing will also remove contaminates.
  22. 1 point
    boiler

    ONR in my car

    unmixed it shouldn't lose color or scent...does not effect performance.
  23. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Product Test - 303 Graphene

    I decided to test a new category of product that I'd been seeing excellent reviews for. 303 is a company that makes quality marine/automotive products and since graphene has become a hot ticket I wanted to see what all the noise was about. 303 Graphene comes in a 15.5 oz spray bottle and costs 19.99. Instructions say to apply to clean, dry paint, corrected if necessary. Using a MF towel or pad, apply in a crisscross pattern, allow to cure to a haze, then buff off. After buffing, the car can be driven. Videos on 303 suggest clay and polish, but my paint was in great shape and didn't need either (tested on the Acura since it's not ceramic coated). Graphene went on pretty easy, a little thicker than Hyper Seal or Wax. It hazed in several minutes, but the streaking was more difficult to remove. I thought about using an ONR dampened towel, but decided to keep the test pure. I went over the car several times to remove all hazing. Observations - the look was shiny and slick, comparable to Hyper Seal. I can't judge durability yet, but 303 says up to 1 year. I haven't driven in rain but I expect the paint to be hydrophobic. Negatives - the streaking took effort to remove, the product cannot be used as a drying aid, and it contains petroleum distillates (with some detailed health instructions). 303 claims enhanced gloss & depth, reduced water spotting, and extreme hydrophobic protection, but make no claims for hardness or chemical resistance. Gloss-Coat would be appear to be the superior product if compared one on one, given it's 2+ year durability, hardness, and chemical resistance. My curiosity is about Hyper Seal - does HS add any hardness or chemical resistance? So I asked: Dr G's thoughts - I don't think Graphene itself plays any role in the performance of 303 or similar products. The other components are creating gloss and water beading and longevity. For usage, Hyper Seal does 20-30 cars so it is much cheaper per application. If you transfer to an Opti-Seal bottle then you get 60-70 cars from one bottle. It is much easier to apply and offers greater hardness, chemical resistance, and water beading. The new formula also lasts longer than a year. What do you think?
  24. 1 point
    A&J

    Replacement for Claying

    Where salt is present using Power clean dilluted 1:3 would be the desired method for pre-wash. Spray on, leave for 2-3 min and PW rinse off. Then do a normal ONR (or with whatever else you wish) wash. You could still use Ferrex after that to remove iron contamination. If after that the paint feels smooth you could go straight to seal or wax. Depending on where you live and how you drive you need to remove the following - Tar spots...those black spots caused from agressive driving, fresh layered roads...for those use a dedicated tar remover or clay. - Iron contamination...they are those rust spots caused by industial fallout (it will settle mostly on the top parts of the car) and braking (will settle on the lower side parts of the car behind the wheels (and on the wheels). For that use Ferrex. For heavy dutty contamination you can use Ferrex as clay lube. Ferrex will disolve iron and clay will aggitate it and pick it up. Just remember to do section by section and dont spray Ferrex on the entire car if you are gonna use clay for aggitating. - Road film. Its grease and grime from the road (oil and gas mixture on the road combined with rain and splattered on you car as you drive over it). Clay wont pick that up or remove it completely so that is where Power clean comes into play as a pre wash. - Water spots...caused by hard water. Use MDR for that. All said and done I would still follow it with a light polish or paint clenser using OPT poli-seal or OPT Finish or Hyper polish before protecting paint. But thats just me.
  25. 0 points
    MDR has a 3.5 pH, close enough to neutral that it doesn't remove Coating.