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  1. 2 points
    Jayk82

    Optimum Synergy Podcast M.I.A.

    I know this is an older topic (it's April 2021 as of me posting)...but for what it's worth I was able to find the back catalog on Spotify (even using a free Spotify account instead of having to pay for a Premium account) to listen to all of the old podcasts.
  2. 2 points
    I'm enjoying this whole discussion! Lowe, you're supposed to credit the origin - it was Yvan who stated the 2 bucket method was one on each side of the car. I've mentioned before that Dr G doesn't use the 2 bucket method, but with 2 sons, I don't think David washes his own vehicles. The only reason I use that method is that I found a divided bucket at a janitorial supply store. This proves all paths can lead to clean cars - foam, single/two bucket, fancy wash patterns, ergonomics, etc. Honestly I've never approached car washing with efficiency in mind, I put music on and have my Big Red Dog for support. Reviewing my process it's obvious I could cut some time and effort. I start at the top (like my daddy taught me), then do all the glass. That's wasted time and an extra trip. Then I pick a side (I like diversity more than routine), and do sections thoroughly. Every area I do, I do completely, meaning wash/seal/dry before moving on. I save wheels/tires for last because i HATE them...and sometime just wipe/seal the wheels, skipping rubber. That's why I'm experimenting with TPC. I take the drying towel infused with ONR and wipe down the interior, followed by Protectant Plus. With each wash bucket, I usually do 2 cars, a regular driver and the Garage Queen (small and easy), though sometimes I do the riding mower instead. I've also experimented using Wax or Instant Detailer instead of sealant - I don't see a huge difference in look and do my cars too often to really judge durability. I find car washing cathartic - it's good exercise, outside, and when I'm done I can see what I've accomplished. A compliment from my wife is just the cherry on top! I've found few things in my professional life that provide as much satisfaction or instant gratification.
  3. 2 points
    Second attempt with TPC and ribbed tires - I attacked my last car with some different methodology using suggestions from Dr G and Detail Mutant. These tires are also ribbed Continentals but are 4 years old. I started by: cleaning with instant detailer ratio ONR Applied TAR, rinsed with ONR (this was a new step - the TAR really helped clean the rubber) 100% Power Clean, rinsed with ONR 2nd application of 100% Power Clean, rinsed with ONR. Tires looking good after the cleaning. allow to dry overnight, do another ONR wipe down and allow to dry Apply generous amounts of TPC using the Dual Foam Applicator (Dr Gs recommendation). Was hard on the foam applicator but allowed better coverage than microfiber. Results - much better, good coverage and no blotchy areas, will now monitor durability. Follow up on past applications (even the blotchy one) - tires look better than untreated but after several weeks, including several rainstorms and pollen season, they lost some shine. The good news, a wipe down with ONR returned them to 70% of the fresh treated look, probably equal to Opti-Bond. So far so good
  4. 2 points
    I have noticed the same issue of blotchy application depending on tire manufacturer and how new the tires are. Worst application was on new Nokian Entyre 2.0 on my wifes mini-van. Ended up applying 2.5 coats to try and get even coverage (third application only touch up). The ribbed sidewall also made it difficult. On Bridgestone Blizzaks (two years old) I had reasonably good application at 1.5 coats (second minor touch up). I generally have the best success of even coverage on Michelin tires ( 1 coat on 3 year old Pilot SuperSport and 1.5 coats on new X-Ice Snow). Based upon my experience, I will probably avoid applying to tires with ribbed sidewalls as it does not improve the look or improve the maintenance significantly over Optimum Tire Bond. The main advantage of TPC is when applied correctly it virtually eliminates any tire browning for six months so that you basically can clean with ONR. When you have ribbed sidewalls, dirt gets trapped that you still should be using APC to clean tires. For application of TPC, I use some of the cheapest microfiber towels you can find at Walmart (11% Polyamide and 89% polyesters). You generally want low polyamide content to avoid TPC being absorbed in the microfiber towel. I also cut the the towels into quarters (roughly 6 inch by 6 inch) then fold over once on one side and twice on other side making a 3 inch wide by 1.5 inch applicator. I find this makes a nice edge for TPC to most tires. I will typically use a clip to hold the applicator so I can more easily control and prevent the applicator from unfolding.
  5. 2 points
    A&J

    OleoPhobia

    Coat one side of the car, leave the other side bare and go drag racing 😁 Compare which side cleans easier after your engine explodes from all the revving 😂
  6. 1 point
    I've been very intersted in the Optimum products for a while but it's taken me a while to figure out how to really use them as a super-fast routine without necessarily buying each product in the range etc. I made a video on the process if anyone is interested. Would be interested in any improvements to the routine (as long as they don't increase the time taken!) . My goals are to have a clean car all the time with minimal effort and minimal damage! https://youtu.be/-XYxswbqhEw Basically the idea is to keep things super simple. So the routine looks like this: 1. Foam wash and pressure rinse 2. ONR wash (with Ultra Black Sponge) 3. Dry with Opti-Seal (Rag Company Dry Me A River towels) There are so many steps missing compared so the usual two-bucket method and the constant slickness from using ONR really adds confidence that you're not causing damage. Especially as the drying stage is lubricated from the ONR dampness, this point in particular is one of the most underrated aspects of ONR I think.
  7. 1 point
    A&J

    Optimum Synergy Podcast M.I.A.

    In all seriousness Ron...what about groundwatter? Our house uses groundwatter from a well and its clean enough to drink...we never had any issues with it but my father is kinda sceptical of me dumping ONR and other car shampoos including Car wash into the ground! Does ONR and / or Car wash contain anything that may make our groundwater soiled? I was meaning to ask this for some time now! Can you ask DR. G about it? Thank you upfront!
  8. 1 point
    A&J

    Optimum Synergy Podcast M.I.A.

    Probably coz it gets "watered" more then everything else 😂
  9. 1 point
    EBGroup

    Optimum Synergy Podcast M.I.A.

    I can second that this method works. Thank you JayK82
  10. 1 point
    Setec Astronomy

    Self healing Coating?

    You know years ago on another forum there were some experiments run by one of the members, and it was shown that the things that detailers do to "strip" the surface don't really work. This was for a standard sealant--washed with Dawn and the beading went away--sealant stripped! Except then the surface was wiped with IPA and the beading returned. Dawn stripped! It turns out that a lot of things can "clog" the surface of a coating or sealant, which disrupts the beading, then if you can remove the contaminant without removing the LSP, then the beading will return. Bottom line we found out a lot of the things we thought were stripping sealants weren't really doing that. This was backed up by an anonymous chemist on that forum who actually worked at a mfr. of car products in Europe, and validated the results, telling us it was very difficult to chemically remove the silicone components from their mixing equipment, and that the idea that dish detergent or an IPA wipe would remove a sealant was nonsense.
  11. 1 point
    Heijneker

    Optimum Synergy Podcast M.I.A.

    Thanks só much @Jayk82, just finished listening to the first one again! I'm gonna be reeling them all in in record time, that's for sure 😁
  12. 1 point
    Absolutely right Ron, I should have credited Yvan with putting two buckets on either side of the car plus I enjoy his approach to detailing. On the other hand, all this efficiency stuff is built on nearly a century of engineers and thinkers such as Deming, Juran, Ohno, Shingo, Taguchi, Toyoda et al Whilst I do love efficiency work and it helps pays my mortgage, it is obviously not for everyone, if someone wants to spend a day cleaning a wheel and they enjoy it then this is time well spent although there is an argument for those for example who love waxing and dislike washing, be efficient with the washing to maximise the time waxing
  13. 1 point
    Bensla Really enjoyed your video, nice production. As for efficiency, any process can be made more efficient. Currently down to one working eye so the world is a bit blurred and without seeing the unedited version these are only general comments There is lots of walking around the car, although it does not sound like a lot of time, it all adds up. With pen & paper or any other method, draw an outline of the car and watch the full process and draw lines which match how often you move around the car or go somewhere else. I would put the bottle of Optiseal in your pocket, carrying different things in your hands is not efficient as it increases the chances of something going wrong. Even better, get a toolkit belt. I would adopt a standardised approach to washing each panel, humans seem to be poor at doing this, we will over wash some parts and just give a quick wipe to others. Most good efficiency improvements come from making lots of small improvements, it is the cumulative result which give the best results. I would suggest washing, drying etc each panel before moving onto the next one if you wish to save even more time. This approach seems counter intuitive but it does work. One day I really should make some YouTube videos on detailing efficiency, perhaps there is a market for reaction detailing videos?
  14. 1 point
    Ben, I can find zero flaws in your presentation and methodology - this is a very thorough and safe way to clean your car. I do have several observations - your suggestion that this is a more efficient method raises questions. For 1, I've never taken 1.5 to 2 hours to wash a car. Secondly, the use of foam and a pressure washer adds time and lots of water to your effort. While foam is great on really dirty cars or for high volume shops, not sure it's necessary for the average user. I use the 2 bucket method after pre-spraying, wash with the BRS, apply either Opti-Seal or Hyper Seal, and dry with an OPT Drying towel. It takes 30 minutes or less, including tires/wheels and interior, and I promise my vehicles are mar free. There are many paths to a clean, mar free car and yours is a great one...just not the only one.
  15. 1 point
    Setec Astronomy

    Water Beading

    I believe that hydrophobicity, if that's a word, is actually measured by the contact angle of the beading...the higher the contact angle the rounder the bead. Most of us that have waxed a lot of cars have had the same experience as the OP, where the beading changes over time, and take that as an indication that the protection is less than it was originally. As we have learned over the years, in a lot of instances the protection is still there, however it has become "clogged" by contaminants. In this case, it could be contaminants washed down with the rain, such as from overhanging trees, etc. Of course, as someone on another forum many years ago used to say, the best way to get that "just waxed" look...is to have just waxed the car. Heijneker, you might want to think about Gloss-Coat or another coating, or using ONRWW to get a little fresh wax with your wash.
  16. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    OleoPhobia

    and you made my point...nothing can repel "everything"
  17. 1 point
    Lowejackson

    OleoPhobia

    Merriam-Webster Definition of everything 1a : all that exists 1b : all that relates to the subject Sorry, could not resist
  18. 1 point
    Test ll for TPC. After successful first test I applied TPC to a second car this weekend. Using the same cleaning regimen - spray concentrated Power Clean, allow to dwell, rinse with ONR, then repeat. After a final rinse with ONR, I allowed the tires to dry completely. Using an old microfiber, I applied TPC to the tires but immediately found it hard to spread evenly. These tires are year old Continentals and they have fine ribs. It was hard to get product into the ribs and it dried blotchy - not sure if that was a cleaning issue or uneven product application. I tried a 2nd coat to see it evened up, even trying an up & down motion to fill ribs, but no joy. I didn't get the ugly discolored blotches I've seen in photos, just an uneven color distribution, so it's possible I didn't get the ribs as clean as necessary. All in all the tires look better and I'll be curious how durable the coating is, but the blotching is discernible to someone even partially anal (like me). My last car also has Continental tires with ribs...so I will REALLY focus on thorough cleaning before application. Optimum recommends applying TPC with an HVLP gun (10 psi and .08 needle) that could allow better coverage in ribs. I don't have one and unless Dr G wants to supply it, I will have use the towel.) I will also use more product to try to soak those ribs.
  19. 1 point
    A&J

    Opti-clean as a rinseless wash?

    OPTI CLEAN AS A RINSELESS WASH I actually did it and tried to use Opti-clean in a bucket of water like I do use ONR and long story short its not that bad...but lets start this at the beginning shall we! THE SETUP: I used a 1 bucket and 2 gallons (7,4L) of water for each wash. Each bucket had a grit guard and a sponge...same exact sponge (one is just older and more used up then the other one), later I also tried to use a microfiber noodle wash mitt. As for pre-spray I used the mix in the buckets. So ONR was diluted at its standard 1:256 so 30ml in 2 gallons and with Opti clean I varied. I started with 15ml then tested it, then added another 15ml, tested it and another 15ml so total 45ml. I also emptied the pre-spray bottle and filled up accordingly to what was mixed in the buckets. THE CAR: I used it on my Renault Grand Scenic which being my car is very well maintained as you can imagine. It gets its no-rinse wash almost every week. It wasn’t dirty but the rain from the last couple of days got it lightly soiled. I also partially washed my wifes car which is a Renault Clio which gets washed and waxed about once a month. It too was lightly soiled from the rain…both cars got washed at the same time (4 days ago) its just my wife driver further to get to her job then I do. RESULTS: Using Opti clean as a rinseless wash: - At 15ml the mixed solution feels like washing with water or similar to ONR. I did pre spray the solution on the panel and then used the wash solution soaked sponge to clean the panel. I used those cheap short nap mf towel to dry and check for dirt but I didn’t find any. o + it cleaned well with no apparent dirt left behind o – it doesn’t feel lubricated - At 30ml the mixed solution feels kinda still the same and not overly lubricated but it is similar to ONR now (now even ONR isn’t the most lubricated product to begin with compared to other companies rinseless washes like Feynlab pure rinseless or Carpro Echo for example). I did wash a part of my wifes car which was on the sun and found it left behind some sort of hazing (see picture bellow) which was later removed with the ONR solution. Note that that hazing was very minor and hard to notice. I did however notice the paint felt very slick once I washed the residue with ONR so clearly the polymers from Opti clean were left behind. That’s awesome. BTW I did not notice any residue or smearing on my car so maybe it was just left on my wifes car (to tell you the truth that paint is finicky and hard to finish perfectly without something showing behind like wax residue, polish or something else…) o + slick and protected finish o – still not lubricated enough. o – may leave behind some residue but probably only on finicky paint - At 45 ml the mixed solution instantly feels slick slick under the sponge. The polymers quickly disperse water on the protected paint and washing with it feels really satisfying and safe. The after washed panels actually look shiny and very clean and I cannot say anything bad with this mix. The only difference now is that we need to use 50% more product then with ONR. The paint afterwards feels quite slick to the touch. I also think that if I sprayed water on it it would sheet much faster due to the leftover polymers. I didn’t notice any major streaking even on my wifes car. o + it feels very lubricated and safe while washing o + it leaves behind a slick and protected surface due to the leftover polymers o + it leaves behind a glossy surface o – you use 50% more product to get these awesome results compared to say ONRWW - And at the end I just dumped all that 45ml leftover mixed solution to the ONR mix and washed the rest and that was the most lubricated and slick feel till now (duh…obviously). Everything (polymers) just added up and the wash really felt super and slick and lubricated and safe and awesome and all those superlatives we love to hear… FINAL VERDICT Can Opti-clean be used as a rinseless wash??? I say YES without a doubt. It works OK at 1:256 ratio but its great at 1:165. It feels really slick and safe to use and I wouldn’t mind using it that way. But cost wise it is more expensive to use Opti clean that way since both products (950ml bottles of ONR and Opti-clean at the Rag company) are similarly priced. If nothing else you could use Opti-clean at a 1:165 mix for a pre-spray and then do a ONR wash. That way you get a stronger pre-spray for more soiled cars while still not using up too much product and still a cheaper ONR wash. Dry with opti-seal and the car will be beading like crazy.