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Let’s just put it this way instead of overthinking anything, the longer you can keep a freshly coated vehicle dry, the better it will be. When I coat ANY vehicle, I keep it dry for a minimum of 12hrs. I basically allow 1 day for full cure. Then I top it off with its topper before sending it out into the wild. You folks are just making something so simple, into something so difficult which is confusing most people that don’t understand coating application.

The new formula Gloss-Coat has increased ceramic polymers that improve it's scratch/mar resistance, UV protection, and chemical resistance. Increased release properties allow it to shed dirt and other contaminates more easily, staying cleaner and making washing easier.

And it is a new version, several weeks ago Optimum introduced a New Formula Gloss-Coat. It has added ceramic polymers providing greater scratch, UV, chemical resistance, along with increased release properties. This is part of Dr Gs "always looking to improve" mantra...and the price I pay for not being at the office in Memphis!

The following is from an Optimum customer: I can recommend Optimum Paint Prep for another use, beyond its normal application. It is excellent for removing residue and deposits on the inside of car windows. Oftentimes these result from petroleum-based vapors and conventional window cleaners either are ineffective or leave streaks which have to be polished out and often return. Optimum Paint Prep handles this problem easily and cleanly.I have been testing Optimum Clear Coat Restorer as a coating for polycarbonate headlights which have lost their factory UV-protection after polishing; thus far, results are encouraging.

I can promise you that beading is one of the last things Dr G looks at and is really just a byproduct of the characteristics he is concerned about. Tug and I have both commented on the obsession some have with beading - the amount, the size, how quickly they disperse. I get that beading is one of the easiest observable factors, but the cheapest wax on the shelf will create beads. The qualities Dr G is looking for, in no particular order, are durability, hardness, chemical resistance, appearance, ease of application, value, etc.

With only an 8% chance of rain forecasted for Saturday I figured I’d be ok. Nope. It rained 24 hours later which isn’t ideal but shouldn’t hurt it. 2 coats an hour apart. Prepped with HP and Paint Prep. I likely did not use enough product though. I only ended up using 8cc's. Very hydrophobic. Looks great and was super easy to use.

Saw some Facebook posts from pro installers who've used Carpet & Fabric on leather and vinyl with great success, so I decided to test it myself. Last weekend I was prepping my pontoon for winter storage and cleaning the vinyl seats. Even though is spends the summer in a covered dock, it gets all manner of spider spots, bird crap, etc and if not cleaned weekly, the spots can bake in. I've used Power Clean, ONR, and Marine 31, but they all require multiple applications and scrubbing. Carpet & Fabric worked the best, spray let dwell, rinse off - spots dissolve easily. Even though it contains protection, we then coated with Protectant Plus for the winter, our SOP. One caveat - don't spray on metal, it leaves streaks that don't come off easily. An earlier poster had the same issue with Power Clean, though I've never had that happen. I haven't tried C&F on leather, but will test that next.

Ok, will try less. It does not seem to have the same drying effect as the original... Thanks

I've really gotta try that new version of ONR if you don't even have to get out of bed to use it!

I am getting a least 3 years out of gloss coat. I wash with onr top it with optimum wax and once a month with hyperseal the paint is slick water just sheers of the paint . My mother in laws car only gets the wax and hyperseal or opti seal . The difference is astounding that's how I know the gloss coat is still there.

I have been using by this combo for the better part of two years now and have been quite happy with it. HS in particular is such a good dry-aid that I use it every wash after I get the car mostly dry with an air blower. I live in the salt belt which makes HS application difficult from December to march, which leaves GC to do the heavyifting during that time. The car also sees touchless auto car washes and coin washs to add to the abuse. I'm due for another application of GC come next spring. First photo was taken recently a full two years and approximately 35000km later after polish and intial application of GC.

I feel just throwing it diluted in a spray bottle and pre treating problem areas before washing would be just as effective and take maybe a minute or two? And then the soap or rinse would neutralize it the more I listen to the old podcast the more I appreciate the system and synergy of it all haha

I prefer the foam applicator when applying Hyper Seal. Basically I apply it like I'm applying Pro/Pro+ coatings. I've tried both and depending on the type of microfiber pad that you are using, you tend to use more product. With Hyper Seal, a little goes a long way. Also with a foam pad, you can get into the tight areas (as the foam with compress a lot) versus trying to fit a microfiber pad in tight areas.

Lol...this is a funny thread because I can relate with all of you guys. Ive sen lots of people bashing ONR without them even using once! Nowadays I just keep to myself and laugh at other people when they comment how good my car looks and I polished recently...but nope...All I did was just give it a ONR wash and opti seal treatment 😄

BRS or not, he makes a great point, particularly for heavy duty winter cleaning - keep your wash media dripping wet! All that solution lubricates the removal of salt & sludge. On the other hand, once had someone complain that ONR messed up his garage floor...can't please some people.

In light of this thread, here’s a contrast to those negative nellies that proves ONR an effective cleaner

I'm often asked about the polymers "left behind" and how they may affect various toppings. I've heard rumors that some LSP's don't have the same shine, hydrophobics, durability, etc on ONR, but have no practical experience since I don't test them. As has been mentioned many times, Optimum products are formulated to work seamlessly together, and if some other brand doesn't, well that's easily/painlessly corrected. Optimum feels no need to defend it's products.

I have tried various rinseless washes and liked them all. If ONR was suddenly discontinued then I would be content to use any of them. However, I did not feel compelled to swap ONR for any of the other products. Maybe as the market grows and the products improve perhaps that will change but for now, I am happy with ONR.

It means original gangster or original, onr was one of the first rinseless washes for years before the market became proliferated with them now.

Awesome, I just saw too! Scotthd on YouTube. It looks like pro and pro plus are in the test too, as well as lots of other pro coatings. Well I guess I finally get to see what I wished for. He has had other coating tests with 5-7 year products and in his conditions they don’t seem to last all that long. So it’ll be interesting to see if Opticoat’s supposed permanence allows it to shine vs others on this test panel.

Optimum adds color and scent to some formulas - ONR is not naturally blue. Diluting ONR also dilutes the color and changes the look...but does not change performance.

being the Tech Specialist I get many doubters (but also many new believers) - you can't argue with stupid. I always point out how long Optimum has been in business and the many social media posts extolling the benefits of ONR. I really don't engage with the cynics, just tell them to continue wasting 300 gallons of water until they go dry.