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  1. 3 points
    WARNING, LONG AND LIFE-DRAINING POST AHEAD! I've been brainstorming the following ALOT, and I would like to know the way to clean a car in the fastest (10-15 min), most efficient (Minimal tools) and most ecological (Less hot water, energy used, minimal chemicals) way, using mostly Optimum products, for normal cars. What follows is the procedure I have dreamt up thus far. but first: What do I class as a normal car: A car that is in relatively good or average shape. Car has never seen a paint correction, or fancy coating and has been washed every couple of months at the carwash, while being driven almost daily. Thus it hasn't been washed since a couple of months, and it won't be afterwards for a couple of months. Dirt to be expected: - Lot's of brake dust (Normal people use their brake ALOT lol). - Bird droppings (Mostly days or weeks old) - Sand kicked-up behind wheels and along doors. - Oily film along the side and frontal area. As this will be mostly a substitute for a Automated Car Wash, minimal Swirling is okay, gloss is important as well as cost (Minimal time). I hope to make a healthy business case out of this. For extremely dirty cars, or a post-winter wash, The Automated Car Wash is preferred. As a remark, I have no Hands-on experience with ANY of the Optimum Products as of yet, I'm an engineer, so I like to do alot of Desk research first. Thus, after countless hours (Really, 100's), of researching into this product line for my particular application, I will state what I have till now. Field research (Testing the products for myself) will soon commense. I have chosen this category as I would like the experts and other forum members to chime in with their ideas and criticism, or maybe even know the real Optimum Way, as envisioned by Dr. G. Hopefully, we/I can create the perfect Tutorial for this particular cleanse. The only wrong answer, critique or question is the one that isn't given or answered, so please don't be shy in stating your opinion. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Let's begin. 1. What Products to use to get it done: Optimum Big Red Sponge. A great re-usable wash media. Yvan an Levi have reported to get nearly a 1000 washes out of it, before retiring it from their business. I think that's a bit extreme, but 400 should be possible surely. Eagle Edgeless 365 or similar. Optimum Body and wheel Brush The Rag Company Jersey Bug scrubber. A big brush, suitable for wheel wells. Tire shine of choice Tire shine applicator pad of choice. Spray bottle. A big bucket for the wash solution (5-Gallon Container, 1-2 Gallon wash Solution) A Power Washer (Don't need a lot of pressure or waterflow here) or a water hose (WHAT??????? Yes.... I'll get to it later. For the pressure washer, a wide spray nozzle (40 deg.) is preferrable, generally the lowest pressure will suffice and is preffered.) Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine, diluted as per directions with distilled water. Optimum No rinse Wash and Wax, diluted as per directions with distilled water. Bilt Hamber Auto Wheel (So far for "The Optimum Way" , and rinsing clearly went out the door as well, what am I even doing here?? We'll get to it!) Optimum Opti Seal and/or Optimum Car Wax Several Low pile, low GSM Drying Towels? (Whatever Yvan thinks is the way to go, I am uncertain what he thinks is best to use for drying a car.) 2. What to do? (Also read the tips in section 3 before you begin) Firstly, we want to pre-soak the areas with caked on dirt (Bug splatter, Bird droppings, Kicked-up sand) using the preferred Wash solution . Think about your college days, no dish washer and no time (or drive) to do the dishes. Stacking up for a couple of days, the dirt cakes on. You can either scrub for a while (not suitable for car paint) or dunk it in water and let it soak for some time (You can't quite dunk your car, so soaking will have to do.) Spray the Bilt Hamber Auto Wheel generously onto the soiled wheels. Make sure to cover all of the wheel, except for plastic parts. Leave to dwell for several minutes (Bilt Hamber states the product is best to be avoided on plastic surfaces, however, in my opinion this is unavoidable. I think the product hasn't been thoroughly tested (Because they don't have to, costs alot of money and the product sells fine as is) on plastic surfaces (Painted or unpainted) and thus they can't garantuee it's safe. I have a suspision it is safe on wheels but we will never know. DO NOT LET THIS PRODUCT DRY OUT). Using the Jersey Bug Scrubber, scrub the dead bug splatter from the frontal area of the car. (Pretty self explanatory, don't go too crazy, I thinks there is alot of chance of swirling here, if that bothers you. You might consider using Optimum Power Clean as a Pre-soak, though staining could be induced by this product.) Using the Optimum Body and Wheel Brush, scrub the grills (and emblems) present on the car. Could also be used on the bug splatters. (If you dare, however if you trust Optimum, this brush will not cause any scratches. I believe them fully. The dirt in the brush may cause scratches, in my unvalidated opinion.) Using the Big Red Sponge and the preferred Wash Solution, Wash the car, starting at the roof. Glass windows in doors that can be lowered should be avoided. The Eagle Edgeless 365 or similar towel should be used on areas you maybe can't reach with the sponge. Wash the car in sections, varying from the whole car, half a panel or a complete panel to a 10 x 10 section, depending on the weather. The solution shouldn't dry on the paint, but if it does, no biggie, Just re-wet, this causes extra work though. After the Wheel Cleaner has been sitting for 5 minutes (If possible with regards to heat and humidity) rinse off thoroughly. This will likely happen during step 4, resume that step afterwards.(Keep your distance during this step, as you want to avoid bombarding the brake system. So if possible, wash the wheel at the opposing end of the brake caliper, turning the wheel to rinse all the rim real estate. Cleaned sections must be sprayed with Optimum Car Wax and/or Optimum Opti-seal, amount as per directions. Placedry low-pile towel onto sprayed area and wipe the cleaned section. Using a low pile-towel, damp from the preferred wash solution, wipe and clean the glass areas you haven't cleaned yet. (Cleaning the windows this way avoids water getting past the window seals. Nothing bugs me more that having clean glass that gets stained from lowering/rasing. Clean glass is extremely important for happy clients Using a DRY low pile-towel to dry the glass area. Clean the wheel wells to your liking, using your brush of choice. Using an Eagle Edgeless 365 or similar towel, slightly soaked with the preferred wash solution. Wipe all of the door jams. Dry the door jambs. Apply Tire Shine of choice to the tires, according to the directions of the product. 3. Now what do we see? A Clean and well protected car! 4. Got some More......... Tips? I sure do, glad you asked. You can use Optimum Power Clean as a pre-spray, if you think it's necessary. It's an alkaline cleaner which means it's inherently more effective on organic matter. (Optimum officials, am I right on this??) There is some evidence that Power Clean doesn't need to be rinsed off after use, if followef by Optimum No Rinse and given right circumstances. HOWEVER, the general concencus seems to be that it needs to be rinsed off. Bilt hamber seems to be the most effective cleaner on the market. This could possibly be substituted for Optimum Ferrex, but I am doubtfull that works as well, to be honest. No disrespect to Optimum, but power to Bilt Hamber on that aspect! Bilt Hamber Auto Wheel could be replaced by The wash solution and some elbow grease. Your brake system will thank you for it! However, from time to time, Auto wheel or Ferrex needs to be used, to make the imbedded particles water soluable and remove them. After step 8, use Optimum Opti-seal for a Rain-X effect. It won't match it of course, applied in this manner. Now, for added efficiency, one could keep the wash solution of a previous wash, and use this for door jambs and wheel wells, before commensing with step 5. I don't really like cleaning tires, I don't think there is a need for it. 5. Why do it like this? Sadly, the rhiming part stops here. As an engineer (With a love for a clean car) I don't like to make uneducated guesses and or go with the feeling "don't worry about it, it'll be fine". I have done my best to really dig deep with everything regarding these products. However, you will still find alot of "Gut feeling" troughout this procedure. Nowadays, even normal cars are driving spaceships, with billions of dollars of R&D and Years of testing by a enormous group of very, very, VERY smart people. Cars nowadays basically have to be bulletproof (Or so I like to think), because they endure the most extreme climates. Cars are driven trough rainstorms, while having hundreds of electrical components, connections and sensors out in the open. These are sealed as much as possible, but still water should be avoided at all cost. Also, to avoid erosion, one should really try to minimize the contact the metal of the car has with water. Water is a great inducer of rust. All the stuff you pick up on the road (Except for salt, which is worse than water) isn't likely to be corrosive. Motor oil isn't, Gearbox oil isn't, Cooling liquid isn't, Brake fluid isn't. Maybe A/C fluid is, but I don't think so. Gasoline could be corrosive, i'm uncertain. It's preferable to introduce as little water as possible to the car. Also, I really don't think the Automated Car Washes is 'A one size fits all' solution. It's designed to make the most filthy of white (White cars don't get dirtier of course, it's just easier to spot.) cars look good again. Chemicals used could be described as 'Extreme', at least on the pH-scale. I think swirling is a non-issue for 99% of the people, so that's not the problem. The energy usage, amount of water and chemicals is, to me. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- That's the procedure I have dreamt up thus far. The product of months and countless hours of researching, brainstorming and envisioning. HOWEVER, I really think that most of it is still able to be improved or even changed completely. I really hope you've read it all, but that is alot to ask for anybody but myself, and thus my graditude would be inmeasurable. Greetings from Holland, Rik
  2. 3 points
    Ron@Optimum

    Yvan Retiring?

    Yes, Yvan is retiring from Optimum but will continue doing training/consulting in the industry.
  3. 3 points
    A&J

    Hyper Paint Correction System (HPCS)

    I have stumbled upon this thread on Autopia.org forum that I have found very interesting to read infact so much so I have decided to post it here for anyone interested in it. The post is from Yvan Lacroix describing the Hyper paint correction system. "Optimum Polymer Technologies Hyper Paint Correction System (HPCS) is a simple system designed to give superior results in less time while using less product. It’s a complete system designed to be simple to use and efficient without creating dust, or the need to tape off plastic mouldings. Consisting of 2 machines, 1 Compound, 2 polishes and 4 pads the Hyper Paint Correction System (HPCS) gives you everything you need for correction and shine in one or 2 steps. The machines designed to work with the Hyper Paint Correction System (HPCS) The Zentool 21E is a 900W random orbital polisher with a 21mm offset stroke. Unique in the industry with an easy to grip surface, the Zentool 21E is simple to use and will get swirl free professional results with very minimal effort and time. Important to the Hyper Paint Correction System (HPCS) the Zentool 21E was designed with a backing plate to promote in pad cooling reducing heat because of the airflow possible only through Optimum Waffle pads. Able to use both 5 and 6 inch pads the Zentool 21E is a formidable correction tool. The Zentool mini is a 3 inch random orbital polisher that allows you to get into tighter areas. With it’s 12mm offset stroke it combines both polishing and correction abilities in a easy to handle and manoeuver package. The pads of the Hyper Paint Correction System (HPCS) listed in order of cut from fast cutting to fine polishing. Hyper Foam/ wool pad. Exclusive to Optimum this pad combines a short nap foamed wool face, with a soft foam interface to follow surface contours. This pad combined with Hyper Compound will quickly correct 1500G sanding marks, and provide a surface that just requires a final polishing prior to coating or wax application. Optimums Waffle pads have some specific design elements that allow them to work efficiently as an integral part of the Hyper Paint Correction System (HPCS). A unique Velcro backing allows air to flow through it for optimal pad cooling. The waffle surface allows for air to circulate between the pad and paint. The waffle surface also eliminates pressure points and excessive drag caused by flat pads, allowing for more efficient pad rotation. The Orange waffle pad combines cut with good polishing abilities. The orange pad can be used with Hyper Compound for light to moderate defect removal, with Hyper Intensive Polish for a one step polish that has good correction and high gloss. When minimal correction is required Hyper polish will finish down LSP ready while providing correction. The Black Waffle pad is for use with your choice of Hyper Intensive Polish or Hyper Polish. Used as the final step following correction with Hyper compound it will quickly refine the surface left by Hyper Compound. Using the Black Waffle pad will give high gloss and provide minimal correction. The Blue Waffle pad is to be used with Hyper Polish as a refinement step when dealing with difficult to correct paints. The Hyper Paint Correction System is based around the synergy of the Hyper trio and the complete Optimum line. The Hyper trio are characterised by their ease of use, efficiency and how user friendly they are. Non staining, no taping of mouldings is required, non-dusting when used according to instructions, and using inter compatible nano abrasives the trio save time and effort. No need to wipe off the residue between steps as the synergy of the HPCS allows you to refine the surface without risking towel marring and wasting time removing the minimal residue. Hyper Compound is a cutting compound that easily removes 1500G sanding marks, while providing an easy to refine surface. Used with either the Hyper Wool/foam pad or the Orange waffle pad Hyper Compound provides both cut and gloss, without dust or hazing. For very heavy correction the Optimum Double Sided Wool pad can be used effectively with Hyper Compound. Hyper Intensive Polish is a cutting polish, providing a gloss finish and moderate cutting abilities its primary use is as a one-step polish. Used with the Orange or Black waffle pad, cut and finish can be adjusted. Hyper Polish is used in conjunction with the waffle pads to refine the surface after compound, or to provide exceptional gloss on paints that do not require correction. The synergy of the complete Optimum line is highlighted with the HPCS, and the time saving realized by using this synergy are evident. For a full correction detail utilizing the Optimum line, and how it saves you time follow these simple steps. Wash the vehicle with Optimum No Rinse(ONR). Decontaminate the paint using an Optimum Clay Towel and the ONR on the surface from the wash as lubrication. Determine the level of correction required and start with your first correction step over the ONR dampened surface, no need to dry or tape off the vehicle. Dampen your chosen pad with ONR wash solution (preferably in a pad washer) and simply spray 1 shot of Hyper Compound on the pad, no need to prime the pad, nor use a large amount of product. Not over using the product is a very important aspect and requires some adaptation for most experienced polishers. It’s imperative that you use a damp pad, and that no more than 1 spray of Hyper Compound of polish be used per section. With the Hyper Paint Correction System do not prime your pads, an clean and dampen your pads after every section. Using the Zentool move it slowly over the surface with a tool speed only as high as needed to allow the backing plate to turn (2-3 on the speed dial). Excessive speed is counterproductive as it creates heat. Pressure should be avoided, just the weight of the tool is sufficient. Again this is different than with most polishing products, just like more product does not mean more results, the same goes with speed and pressure, more will potentially reduce cut and finish. Allow the Hyper Paint Correction System to do the work, not you. The pad should be cleaned of excessive product and paint residue after every section and kept clean and damp with an ONR filled pad cleaner. Once the correction step is complete on the whole vehicle, proceed to the polishing step, there is no need to wipe off the minimal Hyper Compound residue. Doing a test spot will determine if you require Hyper Intensive Polish or Hyper Polish to refine the surface to make it ready for Opti-Seal, Optimum Gloss Coat or Opti-Coat Pro(For Opti-Coat Pro the included Primer Polish should be used instead of Hyper Polish). The Polishing step should require minimal time and passes, as any correction should be done in the first step. Using the pad/polish combination of your choice refine the surface while keeping your pad clean and damp. As with Hyper Compound only one spray of product on the pad is needed. If your paint is very difficult to finish, using a clean blue waffle pad dampened in ONR without any polish will aid in removing the polish residue, working in small sections at low speed To prepare the surface for application of an Optimum coating, remove the polish residue using a Micro-Fibre Towel dampened with ONR to soften and remove the polish residue safely , then apply a mist of Optimum Paint Prep on the panel and dry off both the ONR and Paint Prep.. The ONR will easily remove the polish residue and the Optimum Paint Prep will leave the surface ready for the coating. The Paint Prep Solution has many advantages over IPA when preparing for a coating. It has higher lubricity, allowing the coating to flow out and self-level better , reducing high spots. Optimum Paint Prep also removes all traces of wax and polishing oils leaving the surface as pure as possible for the Opti-Seal, Gloss-Coat or Opti-Coat Pro to bond."
  4. 2 points
    Just going to put my 2 cents in I have used gloss coat twice on the same car first time I used another brand of polish auto glym polish I believe and wiped it down with some alcohol product . The next time I used all optimums products compound and polish and there paint prep big difference less highspots and I was able to put it on thicker no issues the gloss was better and the water just fell of the car . If your going to do all this work why take the chance that it might not come out right?
  5. 2 points
    Habs

    optimum carpet and fabric cleaner

    wow after cleaning one just had to take pic these are the headrest of my 2008 honda element used ik foamer 50/50 with distilled water then scrubbed with carpet brush on my orbital then used just a cheap carpet estractor from canadian tire used to much soap at first then got the hang of it did seats and floor very happy
  6. 2 points
    Ron@Optimum

    Wash n wax

    I've frequently washed my riding lawn mower with leftover ONRWW - have a very shiny Husqvarna.
  7. 2 points
    Ron@Optimum

    Show me whatcha got

    A&J, I'd need a wide angle lens....but I work for the company!
  8. 2 points
    i’ve never used Tire Coatings. Optimum is one of my favorite brands, so when they announced a coating for Tires I wanted to try it. Too cold to do this outside today so I did it in my garage after a quick ONR wash. My wife’s 2015 Tahoe has about 40k miles on the original tires, we will replace them shortly. I wanted to try both 1 coat and 2 coat application Front Tires = 1 coat (satin) Rear Tires = 2 coats (glazed donut) Prep : Scrubbed with PowerClean 100%, non diluted.. Rinsed with pump sprayer. Scrubbed with Optimum Power Clean rinsed, repeat Power Clean. Dry very well. Consistency : It’s the same consistency as ONR, very liquidy, not like Opti bond. Goes on and turns a blue/purple color. After about 5 minutes it turns clear. For the back tires I waited 30 mins and applied a 2nd coat. Picture included below is the results I’ll follow up with my thoughts in the comments over time.
  9. 2 points
    Ron@Optimum

    ONR Definitive Thread

    Chris Thomas OPT Regional Manager | Eastern USA Administrators 2,458 posts Posted 14 November 2008 - 01:20 AM Current version: v3 released March 2012 ONR Dilutions (Per Label): Wash solution: ratio 1:256 or 1 oz/2 gallons or 30 ml to 7.68 liters of water (3.9 ml per liter) Clay lube: ratio 1:64 or 2 oz/1 gallon or 60 ml to 3.84 liters of water (15.6 ml per liter) Regarding quick detailer: before we introduced Optimum Instant Detailer, we listed a quick detailer dilution that has since been removed. You can still use it this way of course, but our dedicated product will perform much better. Quick Detailer: ratio 1:16 or 8 oz/1 gallon or 240 ml to 3.84 liters for water (62.5 ml per liter) Regarding the caps: 8oz size cap holds .25 oz or 7.5 ml 32oz size cap holds .5 oz or 15 ml 128oz size cap holds .5 oz or 15 ml Regarding hard water: You may increase the increase the ratio of the respective product dilution by 20% to adjust for minerals in water used. ONR Directions (Per Label): 1. Add 1oz to 2 gallons of water in a wash bucket 2. Soak wash media in solution and wash vehicle in sections 3. Dry each section two clean towels consecutively Alternate Method w/Presoak (Thanks SUPERBEE364 and EXCELDETAIL) 1. Spray down each panel with QD strength ONR. (pump type garden sprayer) 2. Wipe each panel down gently with a dripping wet MF from the ONR bucket. 3. Rinse and squeeze out the MF, get it dripping wet again, and redo the same panel. 4. Dry the panel with a clean MF followed by a second MF (Sup prefers to use distilled water exclusively, too.) No Rinse Guide With Pics by:Excel Detail FAQs (Thanks Dr. G, BENCE & ANTHONY O.): 1. Why does it feel slimy and not foam?: ONR should feel somewhat slimy, as this provides lubrication/encapsulation which carries away the unwanted dirt particles from the surface. This is a good slime. 2. Why is my wash media so much dirtier than when I do a traditional wash?: ONR binds the dirt to the wash media intentionally. You should change mitts as needed. They can then be soaked in regular detergent to release the dirt before rinsing or washed in the machine. 3. What are the environmental advantages?: Much less water is used by eliminating the rinsing step, not to mention on average only 2 gallons are used to wash vs. 6-10 gallons with the two bucket method (not including rinsing). Also, with a regular wash the mitt will release the dirt into the (usually 5 gallon X 2) rinse bucket, it would likely end in the storm drains when you dumped the buckets. With the ONR wash you can wash your mitts in your machine and dump the remainder of the 2 gallons of solution into the sink or toilet where the dirt goes to the right place where water can be treated/purified. Optimum Products also come packaged in HDPE bottles (which are one of the few widely recyclable plastics) 4. Should I still use the two-bucket method to prevent marring?: ONR softens water, so the bigger particles just sink to the bottom of the bucket. It's like having a built-in grit guard in the wash solution. Smaller particles end up in the wash media. 5. Is there any advantage to using DI/distilled water to make the solution?: Softer water cooperates well with ONR. ONR's actives bond to the minerals of hard waters, therefore you may add more ONR to harder waters. DI/distilled water have no such minerals and the cleaning/protecting power of ONR can be exploited without weakening. These kind of waters will feel slimier than tap water. 6. My ONR Clay lube lost its color, will it still do the job or is it ruined?: ONR may lose its color when the sun hits it directly, but this won't affect its performance. 7. My car is really dirty, should I use more of the concentrate?: Using significantly more than the recommended dosage won't multiply ONR's performance; it will work effectively with the recommended amounts. You can still fine-tune the dosage to your exact needs (soiling of the vehicle, water hardness, wash media type, etc.). (1 oz per gallon vs 1 oz per 2 gallons) Thank you for bringing up this question. The polymers in No Rinse have reactive groups that bond and trap dirt particles making the dirt particles virtually non-abrasive. They also bond to oily particles and emulsify them into water. The latter is equivalent to the cleaning action from soaps which also work by emulsifying oil particles into water. However, with soap there is no interaction with dirt. This is why adding No Rinse to a regular wash also helps protect the paint from dirt particles. The No Rinse polymers also bond to all automotive surfaces and create a slick surface and act as a barrier to protect paint from marring. That is something that soap will not provide since surfactants in soaps have no affinity for painted or other automotive surfaces. When you use 1 oz. of No Rinse in 1 or 2 gallons of water for your wash at the molecular level this provides hundreds of billions of polymer molecules to do what was said above. Additional product will not be necessary except if you are using tap water that contains high levels of minerals such as calcium hydroxide or silicates. In these cases some of the polymers will bond to these minerals and take them out of solution therefore more product might be necessary to compensate for this effect. This is another reason why adding No Rinse to a regular car wash soap improves the results when using tap water. For claying, the recommended level is 2 oz. per gallon, however, the actual product usage is far less. For instance if you are using 16 oz. of clay lube to clay a car, at this dilution you are actually putting 1/4 oz. of No Rinse on the surface. Same thing goes for using No Rinse as a quick detailer. These levels were of course tested for several months and hundreds of washes of heavily soiled cars before we started offering No Rinse three years ago. I hope this helps answer your question. Please let me know if I can be of further assistance. Thanks again. Dr. G (copied from Optimum Forums Ask Dr. G section) 8. Can ONR be used to clean windows and interiors? Yes, ONR can be used for an interior and exterior glass cleaner. It can be used at the regular QD mix.....a bit stronger if you're doing nasty windows and a bit less if doing more regular upkeep type cars. If you notice streaks and smears then you need to cut it back with water. ONR Technique (Thanks SCOTTWAX): Body: YouTube - Washing a Cayenne with ONR Wheels: YouTube - Optimum No Rinse and wheels part 1 YouTube - Optimum No Rinse and wheels part 2 Engine: http://www.autopia.o...ine-detail.html Claying: YouTube - Claying with Optimum No Rinse Touch-ups: YouTube - ONR vs bird bomb Fenderwells:YouTube - Fenderwell cleaning with Optimum No Rinse Wash ONR Wash Media Threads: http://www.autopia.o...do-you-use.html http://www.autopia.o...e-onr-mitt.html http://www.autopia.o...-onr-media.html http://www.autopia.o...-onr-media.html ONR Capabilities Threads: http://www.autopia.o...hed-limits.html http://www.autopia.o...onr-thread.html http://www.autopia.o...-silverado.html http://www.autopia.o...e-onr-pics.html http://www.autopia.o...9-onr-time.html http://www.autopia.o...s-stunning.html http://www.autopia.o...timony-onr.html http://www.autopia.o...ics-inside.html dervdave, SmoogAerornug, Calialick and 29 others like this Chris Thomas Regional Manager | Eastern USA Optimum Polymer Technologies, INC m: 931-267-2500 f: 866-441-7826
  10. 2 points
    A&J

    Minimalist Approach

    Basically yes...ONR is a polymer that does build up over time but maybe you want to get the Wash & wax (green bottle) which adds more protection. Another alternative is to wash with ONR blue and dry with Opti-seal. I know its another product to buy but its so worth it!
  11. 2 points
    Detail Mutant

    Optiseal after Optigloss

    Scott, Optiseal on coated paint I find is best used as a drying aid (spray when panel is wet and wipe off) as it provides added slickness when using a drying towel to prevent marring. But Hyperseal can accomplish the same thing with added topper protection that will last longer. As Ron indicated, Opti-Coat products can only be purchased from opticoat.com or from your local Opti-Coat authorized installer. Optiseal I find is best used on the interior (especially interior windows). Optimum Spray Wax will work over Gloss Coat and is the recommended lubricant for the Ultimate clay towel over Optimum coated vehicles. But again the longevity of the topper is significantly reduced on coated paint vs bare paint. OSW will also change the hydrophobic properties while it is present on the coating (more beading and less sheeting) potentially reducing the self cleaning properties. But the OSW will generally provide more "depth" to the observed reflection in the paint. Besides Hyperseal, the one other Optimum product that I find adds a lot to a coated car is Optimum Instant Detailer (OID). The gloss enhancers in OID really increase the shine of the coating. You don't really need Optiseal or OSW for additional protection with coating so best to go with OID that makes the paint pop if you can't easily get some Hyperseal. I know some people complain about the cost of Hyperseal but on a volume basis it is in fact cheaper than optiseal at regular price ( it is generally 50-75% more expensive but you are getting twice the volume, 16 oz vs 8 oz). Just don't expect any discounts on listed price for Opti-Coat products unlike other Optimum products due to the limited distribution. Another product to consider as a topper is P&S Beadmaker. It adds lots of slickness and increases gloss significantly after the full 4 hour cure window. Just note that it's impact to hydrophobic properties will be similar to OSW (intense beading and less sheeting). And a lot more product is required to be applied (4 to 8 oz for full initial application).
  12. 2 points
    Ron@Optimum

    OPTIMUM GELCOAT RESTORER

    Optimum Gelcoat Restorer (GCR) is engineered to return Gelcoat to its factory finish without the need for polishing. GCR rebuilds the Gelcoat keeping the original thickness and restoring the gloss. GCR will restore your Gelcoat and protect it with its included UV protection.• Easy to use.• No polishing required. • Long term durability. • Easy to maintain. Directions: 1. Remove loose oxidation using pure Optimum Power Clean and a brush or mild scuff pad. 2. Rinse the surface thoroughly and dry. 3. Wearing gloves and eye protection, apply GCR to the surface in overlapping circular motions. If the Gelcoat was heavily oxidized, the GCR will soak in. Do not over apply. 4. Once dry to the touch (20-30 minutes), apply a second coat. 5. Depending on the level of oxidation, up to 4 coats may be required. 6. To maintain the restored surface, wash with Optimum No Rinse (ONR) and apply Optimum Car Wax regularly.
  13. 2 points
    Ron@Optimum

    TIRE PROTECTION AND COATING

    TPC, like Optimum's other tire products, contains UV and ozone protection to shield tires from sun damage and environmental pollution.
  14. 2 points
    theTHiiiNG

    Optimum Opti-Bond vs CarPro PERL

    For the last 2 weeks I've been trialing a test of Optimum's Opti-Bond vs CarPro PERL. This was very subjective, and hopefully honest test. Spoiler alert - I will start out by saying both products are fantastic and are more than worthy of purchasing. I didn't get any great photos as it was too hard to tell the subtle differences between them so you will have to take my word for it. Both products are water based and can be diluted if needed/desired. Optimum Opti-Bond + Leaves a perfectly smooth high gloss finish with no greasy residue + Can be diluted further to reduce gloss (I wouldn't go past 1:1 as the consistency gets... weird) + Very good value for money (as usual with Optimum) + Although not really obvious, can be used on external (and even internal) plastic trim and rubber + Still going strong after 2 weeks in a daily driven car in a variety of weather + Does not appear blotchy or streaky if applied unevenly - The smell is hard to describe, but it's not great - Has trouble bonding to older rubber that has started to dry - The high gloss look may not be desirable for some Applied undiluted to the tyre. CarPro PERL + Produces a fantastic satin finish on everything it touches + Has some kind of darkening effect built in that makes rubber look new + Smells amazing! + Can be diluted down for use on leather and plastic if needed + Very good value for money when purchased in the 1 litre size - Produced an unsightly cheap silicone look in direct sunlight when used at full strength (on tyres at least) - If you are after a high gloss, wet look, this may not be the best choice - Durability on tyres is only average. Starting to noticabley drop off after 2 weeks - Due to the darkening effect, it can appear 'patchy' if you don't apply it evenly Applied undiluted to the tyre. Both products perform great once you get the hang of the quirks each have. For instance - PERL will leave a streaky finish if not wiped down soon after applying and Opti-Bond turns into a really weird consistency if you dilute it too much. I will say that a huge downside to PERL is when applied at full strength to tyres it has a horrible cheap silicone dressing look to it when hit by full sunlight. I took my car to a friends house to actually show it off after washing it on the weekend and this actually made me embarrassed when he saw it. I would happily choose and love using either product, but if I had to go with only one I would give the very slightest advantage to Opti-Bond. I think the name should be changed to Opti-Bond External Trim and Tire Gel as in my experience it actually outperformed PERL on external plastic. I applied it to my mothers car which had very faded external plastic trim, and upon seeing the car weeks later it was still performing well even though it sits outside 24/7. If you have any experiences with either of these products please let me know!
  15. 2 points
    Lowejackson

    Detailing Efficiency Experiments

    To listen to some British guy talking about detailing efficiency on the Synergy Podcast. Or perhaps I should say 'to listen to me talking about detailing efficiency'. https://optimumsynergypodcast.libsyn.com/lean-processing-next-level-efficiency
  16. 2 points
    The Guz

    Decon Process

    Do you have water spots on the car? If not then no need to use MDR. Keep it simple and this is what I would do 1. Ferrex. If the paint is not that dirty you can use that over the dry surface to not dilute the product with water. If it is too dirty wash and dry first then use Ferrex. 2. Rinse the Ferrex from the surface and proceed with your normal wash 3. Clay 4. Paint prep if you want to take an additional step after claying to remove any clay lube residue. No need for an additional wash. 5. Polish 6. Protect 7. Maintain
  17. 2 points
    A&J

    Temporary Forum Shutdown

    You click on the time under the post (for example it says "9hours ago") and it takes you to that post. Dont forget to like my comment...apparantly the more likes I get the better the change I win OCP or other OPT stuff this month
  18. 2 points
    Ron@Optimum

    Opti-Seal on Tires?

    Opti-Seal will not hurt tires, but won't help them either. It is effective on rubber trim - tires are more porous and absorb product.
  19. 2 points
    oregonduck

    OID or OOC?

    I enjoy washing my own cars and keeping them looking good with the best products. I currently use OCW as my sole wax product and am very happy with the product. I use it after every wash since I don't wash the cars on a regular basis. I am looking for a product to spot clean bugs and small bird and tree droppings on a daily basis for maintenance between my full washes. I have been going back and forth between buying OID and OOC and just can't make a decision. I think both products would have different advantages but these are just based on what I've read online as I have not used either. I am assuming OOC would have more cleaning power than OID which would be great for the purpose of cleaning up the occasional bugs, bird or tree droppings after a drive. One of my questions is would using OOC on a regular basis for spot clean up also remove my OCW protection at the same time? On the other hand, I have been leaning towards buying OID for this spot cleaning purpose. I figure if OID offers enough cleaning power to wash off these type of spots (which should be fairly fresh considering my goal behind this product purchase is to stay on top of this) then I'm wondering if OID could work as my spot cleaner, but also offer me much more protection than OOC? Since I don't always get to do full wash with OCW application very regularly, I like the idea of the product I choose giving me extra protection from the elements as a bridge, and am assuming OID would offer more protection than OOC? But would OID have sufficient cleaning power for the bug/bird/tree spots? One more note, I wouldn't really be using either of these products for their intended use! I like OCW and the added protection and it is so easy I can't see using the OID instead of OCW as my LSP. On the other hand, I am kind of a purist when it comes to a full car wash, so wouldn't be using OOC for its intended waterless wash purpose. I hope this extra info helps, just looking for some expert advice on which product to buy for this spot cleaner purpose?
  20. 2 points
    Paul S

    Happy Birthday !

    Happy Birthday shout out to Dr. G. !!!!!! Hope you have a great day.
  21. 1 point
    BimmerBoy

    Hyper Seal application

    Thanks for the help! I put one coat as a drying aid after iron remover and claying it yesterday evening. I put a second coat on this morning as a dry application. Bimmer looks incredible!!!
  22. 1 point
    Sjbiss

    My (mostly) Optimum Day (s)

    Yeah, the defects in my garage walls really come through....lol
  23. 1 point
    Lowejackson

    Detailing Efficiency Experiments

    A coating makes such a difference, it really is worth the effort. I was intrigued by Yvans comments of using Power Clean with a foamer as a more effective way of cleaning dirty wheels compared to just spraying PC
  24. 1 point
    Jim Busch

    My formula for fantastic Quick Detailer

    I'm sorry I have been running with my hair on fire at work so I haven't gotten a chance to post back here! A&J I have been adding it to the wash water at various strengths and to the detailer formula at pretty small amounts of 1/2 ounce or so. I like the way it makes the wipe-off really go quicker...just like it does as a pure drying agent. Leaves a great shine. One thing I have been doing once in a while is I will spray down my door jams with my home made concoction detailer and then dry them off using OS as a drying agent to wipe down the jams. Kind of keeps them sparkly clean and leaves behind a little protection at the same time.
  25. 1 point
    RSF

    Mobile Set-up Questions

    I'm preparing to start my part time week-end detailing business using many of the Optimum products and I have several questions regarding some of the more expensive equipment purchases I'll need to make. 1. If I'm NOT planning on using a hose for free flowing water what portable systems would be suggested that would give me some pressure spraying for rinsing the wheels/tires or the engine bay or some major mud/dirt on the paint? There are several portable battery operated sprayers on the market. (Mytee Boss, Chemical Guys sprayer, Nomad, etc) 2. If using chemicals that are environmentally friendly is it necessary to have a water containment matt in order to be fully compliant? 3. What canopies are easy to set up for one operator? What sizes? 10x15, 10x20, Best places to purchase from? 4. Suggested hot water extractors and steam machines? If I can only afford one to start with would it be better to start with an extractor or a steam machine? 5. This is not just for mobile use but what would be a high quality paint thickness gage that would be accurate down to 3 mil? That's all I can think of for now. If there are any other suggestions for a mobile set up I'd greatly appreciate any help!