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  1. 4 points
    Heijneker

    Thank you

    ,Well, I finally put in an order for some Optimum products, after months and months of 'research'. In that time I just fell in love with the products. It all just sounded and felt right. All the information provided in the podcastst, from Yvan Lacroix, from The Rag Company. I got so excited and wanted to try this for myself. And today, it arrived, I was so happy to recieve all the stuff and couldn't wait to try it. I even got to speak to a 'local' Opti Coat Pro+ certified installer, which hightened the excitement. I got some ONR, OCW, OPC, OOS, the BRS (sadly delayed), and the brush. I tried it out on my dad's car first, since mine was sadly too clean for my liking. It hadn't been washed in about 3 weeks, when it recieved a minor polish from yours truly. So, using a low GSM 70/30 open loop microfiber with the ONR, no pre-spray, it felt kind of wrong. During the first pass, it felt kind of like I was grinding the dirt into the paint, but the second pass felt super slick. Cleaning power was absolutely amazing, I didn't really expect that. Once dry, even without using OCW or OOS, the car felt nice and slick. Cleaning windows was an absolute breeze, inside and out (even with dog saliva....). I am sure I pushed the product a little to far, with there being kicked up sand on the paint, behind the wheels, which I didn't spray off. But there were no deep scratches. Well, the solution was pretty dark now, so what do you do? You go clean all the glass of your house inside and out. They have never been this clean and slick, even though the solution I was using was really dirty! I was amazed. So what do you do with this dirty water ? You go knock on the neighsbour's door. You know, the one with the extremely dirty car, and you say you wanna clean their's. They look at you like you lost it but of course they happily agree. The car had months of thick road film on it. Grey dust along the whole side. Well, no problemen for the dirty ONR solution. Even the windows got squeeky clean. The brake dust on the wheels had corroded, so of course, that's too much for ONR to handle (Even though it did clean up one wheel really nice on it's own). I was amazed at the insane amount of power in OPC. Applied straight on the ONR wet wheel, 3 squirts. All that brake dust just came RIGHT off with the towel. It was absolutely INSANE! The car looked pretty amazing when I was done (Car was fairly new). I have cleaned 3 more cars after that today, and all have been an amazing experience. Can't wait for the BRS tomorrow. I want to say thanks to Optimum Car Care for the amazing line of products. It was such an amazing experience. I'm so happy with the products and I am sure I will never use soap again. I am eager to try the polishing line as well, and somewhere down the line I will get my car coated as well. I am now officially........ An OPT fanboy!
  2. 3 points
    WARNING, LONG AND LIFE-DRAINING POST AHEAD! I've been brainstorming the following ALOT, and I would like to know the way to clean a car in the fastest (10-15 min), most efficient (Minimal tools) and most ecological (Less hot water, energy used, minimal chemicals) way, using mostly Optimum products, for normal cars. What follows is the procedure I have dreamt up thus far. but first: What do I class as a normal car: A car that is in relatively good or average shape. Car has never seen a paint correction, or fancy coating and has been washed every couple of months at the carwash, while being driven almost daily. Thus it hasn't been washed since a couple of months, and it won't be afterwards for a couple of months. Dirt to be expected: - Lot's of brake dust (Normal people use their brake ALOT lol). - Bird droppings (Mostly days or weeks old) - Sand kicked-up behind wheels and along doors. - Oily film along the side and frontal area. As this will be mostly a substitute for a Automated Car Wash, minimal Swirling is okay, gloss is important as well as cost (Minimal time). I hope to make a healthy business case out of this. For extremely dirty cars, or a post-winter wash, The Automated Car Wash is preferred. As a remark, I have no Hands-on experience with ANY of the Optimum Products as of yet, I'm an engineer, so I like to do alot of Desk research first. Thus, after countless hours (Really, 100's), of researching into this product line for my particular application, I will state what I have till now. Field research (Testing the products for myself) will soon commense. I have chosen this category as I would like the experts and other forum members to chime in with their ideas and criticism, or maybe even know the real Optimum Way, as envisioned by Dr. G. Hopefully, we/I can create the perfect Tutorial for this particular cleanse. The only wrong answer, critique or question is the one that isn't given or answered, so please don't be shy in stating your opinion. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Let's begin. 1. What Products to use to get it done: Optimum Big Red Sponge. A great re-usable wash media. Yvan an Levi have reported to get nearly a 1000 washes out of it, before retiring it from their business. I think that's a bit extreme, but 400 should be possible surely. Eagle Edgeless 365 or similar. Optimum Body and wheel Brush The Rag Company Jersey Bug scrubber. A big brush, suitable for wheel wells. Tire shine of choice Tire shine applicator pad of choice. Spray bottle. A big bucket for the wash solution (5-Gallon Container, 1-2 Gallon wash Solution) A Power Washer (Don't need a lot of pressure or waterflow here) or a water hose (WHAT??????? Yes.... I'll get to it later. For the pressure washer, a wide spray nozzle (40 deg.) is preferrable, generally the lowest pressure will suffice and is preffered.) Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine, diluted as per directions with distilled water. Optimum No rinse Wash and Wax, diluted as per directions with distilled water. Bilt Hamber Auto Wheel (So far for "The Optimum Way" , and rinsing clearly went out the door as well, what am I even doing here?? We'll get to it!) Optimum Opti Seal and/or Optimum Car Wax Several Low pile, low GSM Drying Towels? (Whatever Yvan thinks is the way to go, I am uncertain what he thinks is best to use for drying a car.) 2. What to do? (Also read the tips in section 3 before you begin) Firstly, we want to pre-soak the areas with caked on dirt (Bug splatter, Bird droppings, Kicked-up sand) using the preferred Wash solution . Think about your college days, no dish washer and no time (or drive) to do the dishes. Stacking up for a couple of days, the dirt cakes on. You can either scrub for a while (not suitable for car paint) or dunk it in water and let it soak for some time (You can't quite dunk your car, so soaking will have to do.) Spray the Bilt Hamber Auto Wheel generously onto the soiled wheels. Make sure to cover all of the wheel, except for plastic parts. Leave to dwell for several minutes (Bilt Hamber states the product is best to be avoided on plastic surfaces, however, in my opinion this is unavoidable. I think the product hasn't been thoroughly tested (Because they don't have to, costs alot of money and the product sells fine as is) on plastic surfaces (Painted or unpainted) and thus they can't garantuee it's safe. I have a suspision it is safe on wheels but we will never know. DO NOT LET THIS PRODUCT DRY OUT). Using the Jersey Bug Scrubber, scrub the dead bug splatter from the frontal area of the car. (Pretty self explanatory, don't go too crazy, I thinks there is alot of chance of swirling here, if that bothers you. You might consider using Optimum Power Clean as a Pre-soak, though staining could be induced by this product.) Using the Optimum Body and Wheel Brush, scrub the grills (and emblems) present on the car. Could also be used on the bug splatters. (If you dare, however if you trust Optimum, this brush will not cause any scratches. I believe them fully. The dirt in the brush may cause scratches, in my unvalidated opinion.) Using the Big Red Sponge and the preferred Wash Solution, Wash the car, starting at the roof. Glass windows in doors that can be lowered should be avoided. The Eagle Edgeless 365 or similar towel should be used on areas you maybe can't reach with the sponge. Wash the car in sections, varying from the whole car, half a panel or a complete panel to a 10 x 10 section, depending on the weather. The solution shouldn't dry on the paint, but if it does, no biggie, Just re-wet, this causes extra work though. After the Wheel Cleaner has been sitting for 5 minutes (If possible with regards to heat and humidity) rinse off thoroughly. This will likely happen during step 4, resume that step afterwards.(Keep your distance during this step, as you want to avoid bombarding the brake system. So if possible, wash the wheel at the opposing end of the brake caliper, turning the wheel to rinse all the rim real estate. Cleaned sections must be sprayed with Optimum Car Wax and/or Optimum Opti-seal, amount as per directions. Placedry low-pile towel onto sprayed area and wipe the cleaned section. Using a low pile-towel, damp from the preferred wash solution, wipe and clean the glass areas you haven't cleaned yet. (Cleaning the windows this way avoids water getting past the window seals. Nothing bugs me more that having clean glass that gets stained from lowering/rasing. Clean glass is extremely important for happy clients Using a DRY low pile-towel to dry the glass area. Clean the wheel wells to your liking, using your brush of choice. Using an Eagle Edgeless 365 or similar towel, slightly soaked with the preferred wash solution. Wipe all of the door jams. Dry the door jambs. Apply Tire Shine of choice to the tires, according to the directions of the product. 3. Now what do we see? A Clean and well protected car! 4. Got some More......... Tips? I sure do, glad you asked. You can use Optimum Power Clean as a pre-spray, if you think it's necessary. It's an alkaline cleaner which means it's inherently more effective on organic matter. (Optimum officials, am I right on this??) There is some evidence that Power Clean doesn't need to be rinsed off after use, if followef by Optimum No Rinse and given right circumstances. HOWEVER, the general concencus seems to be that it needs to be rinsed off. Bilt hamber seems to be the most effective cleaner on the market. This could possibly be substituted for Optimum Ferrex, but I am doubtfull that works as well, to be honest. No disrespect to Optimum, but power to Bilt Hamber on that aspect! Bilt Hamber Auto Wheel could be replaced by The wash solution and some elbow grease. Your brake system will thank you for it! However, from time to time, Auto wheel or Ferrex needs to be used, to make the imbedded particles water soluable and remove them. After step 8, use Optimum Opti-seal for a Rain-X effect. It won't match it of course, applied in this manner. Now, for added efficiency, one could keep the wash solution of a previous wash, and use this for door jambs and wheel wells, before commensing with step 5. I don't really like cleaning tires, I don't think there is a need for it. 5. Why do it like this? Sadly, the rhiming part stops here. As an engineer (With a love for a clean car) I don't like to make uneducated guesses and or go with the feeling "don't worry about it, it'll be fine". I have done my best to really dig deep with everything regarding these products. However, you will still find alot of "Gut feeling" troughout this procedure. Nowadays, even normal cars are driving spaceships, with billions of dollars of R&D and Years of testing by a enormous group of very, very, VERY smart people. Cars nowadays basically have to be bulletproof (Or so I like to think), because they endure the most extreme climates. Cars are driven trough rainstorms, while having hundreds of electrical components, connections and sensors out in the open. These are sealed as much as possible, but still water should be avoided at all cost. Also, to avoid erosion, one should really try to minimize the contact the metal of the car has with water. Water is a great inducer of rust. All the stuff you pick up on the road (Except for salt, which is worse than water) isn't likely to be corrosive. Motor oil isn't, Gearbox oil isn't, Cooling liquid isn't, Brake fluid isn't. Maybe A/C fluid is, but I don't think so. Gasoline could be corrosive, i'm uncertain. It's preferable to introduce as little water as possible to the car. Also, I really don't think the Automated Car Washes is 'A one size fits all' solution. It's designed to make the most filthy of white (White cars don't get dirtier of course, it's just easier to spot.) cars look good again. Chemicals used could be described as 'Extreme', at least on the pH-scale. I think swirling is a non-issue for 99% of the people, so that's not the problem. The energy usage, amount of water and chemicals is, to me. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- That's the procedure I have dreamt up thus far. The product of months and countless hours of researching, brainstorming and envisioning. HOWEVER, I really think that most of it is still able to be improved or even changed completely. I really hope you've read it all, but that is alot to ask for anybody but myself, and thus my graditude would be inmeasurable. Greetings from Holland, Rik
  3. 2 points
    JBradt

    2019 Ford F-150

    This is my 2019 F-150, I started with a pressure wash off of the big stuff, wheels and tires Power Clean 3:1, ONR pre spray (256:1) in a garden pump sprayer, followed by BRS ONR wash, clay towel with OCW, then dried with Opti-Seal. Tires done with Opti Bond Tire Gel. Interior vacuumed and plastics cleaned with Power Clean 30:1 and a detail brush, glass with ONR, any spots in carpet or seats with Fabric Clean and protect 3:1.
  4. 2 points
    Heijneker

    Power Clean Testing

    Of course Optimum stated that Optimum Power Clean (OPC) should be used diluted on paint, and not be used on glass. They also say it should be rinsed off thoroughly, preferably with running water. I would suggest you follow the instructions on the bottle. However, because my own car is a... ahum... suitable test subject, I would like to test the product for myself. So, if someone would like to make a suggestion for things to try, please let me know! Somewhere down the line I would like to test this more professionaly, but for now, i'm just fooling around. Concerning the weather; I live in the Netherlands, near Amsterdam (No, not all places in the Netherlands are near Amsterdam, before someone makes that joke) My car is red, with some panels having parts without clear coat 🙂 Things I have tried so far: - OPC 3:1 sprayed onto glass, left to dry completely (Even driven it with it on the windshield) and left to sit for an hour in the sun (16 C). NO etching has occured. Stains did not come off with a dry MF towel. Stains did come off with a Damp towel, but with a lot of effort. Stains came off more easily with ONR at 32:1 in a spray bottle and a dry towel. There was always a slight oily haze on the window. I seem to get that with ONR as well, but slightly less visible. - OPC 3:1 sprayed on to paint, left to dry completely and left to sit for A DAY, in cool temperatures, overcast, and slightly raining sometimes. Stains did not come off completely with a dry MF Towel, or a damp one. I did not try ONR at a stronger dilution. I applied OPC at 3:1 and left to dwell for 30 seconds. I then dried with a dry MF Towel and stains were gone. So, no stains or etching of any kind. - OPC 3:1 sprayed onto vinyl, left to dry completely. Stains came off mostly with a dry MF towel. Completely with ONR at 32:1 and a damp towel. - OPC sprayed onto vinyl, left to dry completely. Stains only came off after applying OPC again and left to dwell for 30 seconds and cleaned off with a dry MF Towel. This took 3 hits to remove the stains completely. Things I'm trying right now: - OPC 3:1 sprayed on paint, left to dry in the hot sun for multiple hours. - OPC 3:1 Sprayed onto Glass, left to dry in the hot sun for multiple hours. - OPC 3:1 Foamed onto paint, left to dry in the hot sun for multiple hours. - OPC 3:1 Sprayed onto vinyl , left to dry in the hot sun for multiple hours. - OPC Sprayed onto glass, left to dry in the hot sun for multiple hours. - OPC Sprayed onto paint, left to dry in the hot sun for multiple hours. - OPC Sprayed onto vinyl , left to dry in the hot sun for multiple hours. Things I want to try: - Removing OPC (3:1) with Opti Clean (on glass) - Removing OPC (3:1 with OPT Glass Cleaner and Protect (on glass) Things I have found so far: - OPC leaves the paint feeling SOOOOOOOOOOOOO nice and clean. - OPC seems to be very easy to completely remove with just a dry MF towel, followed up with a regular wash. - OPC is safe to use on glass (But, I haven't tried it yet it scorching temperatures) - OPC (3:1) hasn't caused me any issues regarding staining the rims on my car (OZ Superturismo, love them haha) So, as stated before, in the future I would like to test this more proffessionaly/thoroughly/clearly. Please let me know what you would like me to test further.
  5. 2 points
    A&J

    Rinseless prep wash for Polish?

    Just skip the power clean and ferrex step if you cant use free flowing water and just ONR the vehicle and move to clay towel. Then use paint prep prior to polishing. A good 1step is Intensive polish on a light cutting pad. Obviously it depends on the type of paint or color and the ammount of bonded contaminants but you can skip a lot by just doing a ONR wash and clay before you go polish the paint!
  6. 2 points
    darrvao777

    The Line between Opticlean and ONR

    Checking back in to report an update, I've been exclusively using Optimum products to clean my car since I last posted in September (don't even own traditional soap anymore!) and have nothing but positive things to report. My experience mirrors a lot of what the experts here have reported: 1) My car is a daily driver and sits outside, I love washing with ONR and the BRS versus the increased caution I need to take with Opti Clean 2) I typically with pre-rinse with a hose just to get as much loose debris off as possible (but I have done plenty of washes without a pre-rinse and haven't scratched my car yet) 3) I find that foaming Power Clean (in addition to being fun) is great particularly for bugs. Such an awesomely versatile product that can be used to wash wheels / tires / bugs / stubborn tar / etc This was a great week where I could put everything together (back to work and driving 5x/week, assaulted by a ton of love bugs, eagerly awaiting my Friday evening car wash): - hose off the car - foam Power Clean 1:3 on the wheels / tires / lovebug-affected areas - use wheel tools to clean the wheels / tires / exhaust - use bug sponge to clean the bugs - hose off again (I believe ONR used in a large volume can also neutralize Power Clean but I prefer hosing it off to be safe) - bring the car inside so I can work in a climate-controlled environment - BRS + ONRWW to clean the body - Opti seal and microfiber towel to dry the body - microfiber towel dunked into ONR and wrung out to wipe down the interior - spritz of opti seal and microfiber towel to dry the wheels Ready for another week of work and lovebugs
  7. 2 points
    AMDG75

    Durability during first 30 Days

    This is one very worthwhile addiction! Would she rather you be out carousing 😏 Any money spent on drinking is down the plumbing a few hours later, whereas money/time spent on keeping the car well maintained lasts forever.
  8. 2 points
    Dr G is not big on discussing the science behind his products. These are his comments on CCR: Not all paints are self healing. If a paint is self healing then it will fill in minor scratches with minimal heat (70-90 F). Excessive heating such as using a polisher can bring the surface temperature to 150-200F which can temporarily cause the paint to flow and fill scratches. We do not claim CCR to have self healing properties, however, this testing shows that it does to some extent.
  9. 2 points
    Ron@Optimum

    Gloss Coat Slickness

    Gloss-Coat doesn't need wax or sealant to preform, but Optimum got tired of arguing that with customers (and are a for profit company), so we're good with topping it. Wax/sealant can provide a sacrificial layer and potentially extend durability - plus adds some bling.
  10. 2 points
    Ron@Optimum

    Gloss Coat Slickness

    slickness is a characteristic of wax, not ceramic coatings (and as pointed out above, running your fingers over paint is not recommended). If you need slick, try topping with Spray Wax or Instant Detailer. Some other manufacturers promote slickness, but their coatings tend to be less durable - components that cause slick can interfere with durability - a trade off.
  11. 2 points
    Just going to put my 2 cents in I have used gloss coat twice on the same car first time I used another brand of polish auto glym polish I believe and wiped it down with some alcohol product . The next time I used all optimums products compound and polish and there paint prep big difference less highspots and I was able to put it on thicker no issues the gloss was better and the water just fell of the car . If your going to do all this work why take the chance that it might not come out right?
  12. 2 points
    Habs

    optimum carpet and fabric cleaner

    wow after cleaning one just had to take pic these are the headrest of my 2008 honda element used ik foamer 50/50 with distilled water then scrubbed with carpet brush on my orbital then used just a cheap carpet estractor from canadian tire used to much soap at first then got the hang of it did seats and floor very happy
  13. 2 points
    Ron@Optimum

    Wash n wax

    I've frequently washed my riding lawn mower with leftover ONRWW - have a very shiny Husqvarna.
  14. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Opti-clean as a rinseless wash?

    found some info I stole from Dr G several years ago (I'm a packrat with info): ONR vs Opti-Clean – No Rinse used as a quick detailer works fine for a car with light dust while Opti-Clean can be used on a car with several days of build up. The reason is that Opti-Clean contains the same polymers in No Rinse that encapsulate dirt but at a much higher concentration than No Rinse QD as well as other polymers not used in No rinse that offer more lubricity and gloss. Based on the chemistry of these products (Opti-Clean, No rinse, Instant Detailer), there should be no bonding issues or affects on the longevity of waxes or sealants when you use these products before or after application of waxes or sealants. The protective film these products leave behind is dissolved and removed by the chemical solvents and abrasives used in waxes or sealants. None of these products contain detergents or solvents to remove waxes or sealants and therefore they only add protection not remove them. While both of these products are pH neutral, Opti-Clean contains much higher levels of polymers than No Rinse as well as some new polymers that we developed for this type of application. The added polymers are necessary to compensate for using a fraction of the water as compared to a regular No Rinse wash. You do get some level of UV protection from the reflection effects as well as some sacrificial UV protection (the polymers breaking down rather than the paint). But for UV protection, you need specific compounds designed to block UV light. The main product we offer for exterior application that provides the most UV protection is Optimum Car Wax which contains these specific chemicals to block UV light.
  15. 1 point
    darrvao777

    Power Clean Testing

    i love power clean, so versatile to clean tires/wheels/engine bays/bugs/tar and somehow gentle enough (and effective) for interiors too! i know it’s blasphemy around here but if i had to select a favorite optimum product, i might rank power clean slightly above onr 🙂 foaming is fun and i love the foam it creates out of a foam cannon and the ik foamers. but for control, my default is still power clean diluted 1:3 in a spray bottle
  16. 1 point
    Tug Bankert

    Clear Coat Restorer CCR

    Clear coat restorer is an amazing innovative product. I have been using it since it came out. I did my first full vehicle a few weeks ago. A block 2010 Mazda CX-9 with heavy oxidation and scratches. I knew that CCR filled in and covered scratches but the percentage that it covered was way more than I ever would have thought. The really amazing thing is that I would have had to do a paint correction to restore the paint and with not enough clear coat to do that I would have produced decent results but removed even more clear leading to failure. The amount of money this saves in not having to repaint or even spending hours doing a pc is mind boggling. This would be a great way to sell it to your customers. If you haven't tried this product I would recommend buying it and doing so. There is a learning curve as it takes much practice to begin to master it. It reacts differently to each vehicle it is applied to. I will be coating the ccr in a few days with Pro plus and I cant wait for 30 days after to see the results. Let me know if any one has and ccr stories or info to share. Thanks
  17. 1 point
    I waited to add my 2 cents and am glad I did - great responses! Gloss-Coat can be layered and due to it's hybrid nature, will bond. It would need to be polished off IF you wanted to apply Opti-Coat Pro. I agree you don't need Power Clean for prep at this point, ONR/Paint Prep is adequate. And I'm not sure you need to add a second coat - while your prime may have been light, 8-9 ccs is more than enough to coat a 6 series. Unfortunately there's no easy way to test your coverage. For total confidence, another coat is inexpensive.
  18. 1 point
    No Soap

    Optimum Car Wash

    Wheels get cleaned with a soft brush and ONR and Wheel cleaner, now and then. I don't understand why people get crazy over new stuff when ONR still performs like a beast!?
  19. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Optimum Car Wash

    I'd try the soap and the new Opti-Coat M-Wash, but I don't remember where my hose is...sad?
  20. 1 point
    Thanks for following back up on this thread In the end, I've experimented with both methods over the past few months and I still find using a spray bottle is the most effective for me For wheels, I find it is more the agitation rather than the foam vs spray or even dilution strength that cleans the wheels and tires for me For the body, I find there's more control using the spray bottle whereas it can be difficult to control the foam spray sometimes (I know I've seen people use this briefly on glass but I still prefer avoiding glass with Power clean if possible)
  21. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Optimum Synergy Podcast M.I.A.

    Proof that nothing on the internet is ever truly "gone"?
  22. 1 point
    Yes, you can use Optimum Carpet & Fabric on alcantara - follow the cleaning instructions.
  23. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    ONR - not what Im used to

    Dr G is always looking for ways to improve products...and with all the new rinseless washes out there, I've yet to see one that performs better than ONR. KcKees claims to be slicker....define slickness to me and prove the claim. Even Yvan LaCroix, who's doing product demos for McKees, doesn't specifically say it's better.
  24. 1 point
    Olds394

    Wash n wax

    I’m with the OP, and have a shelf full of products. You know it’s bad when I’m polymer sealing the trash cans just to use up product. Where’s the lawnmower? Lol
  25. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Waterspots

    Removing Persistent Water Spots / Mineral Deposits Hydrofluoric acid (HF) is a common ingredient in car wash cleaning solutions mainly because it is highly effective and relatively inexpensive. Particulate matter from brake pads and discs, tire wear, and abrasion of road surface accumulated on the exterior of automobiles are aggressively removed with the use of car wash cleaning solutions containing HF. The unique properties of HF to dissolve silica, concrete, most metals, and metallic oxides cause effective breakdown of rust, road dust, and grime on automobiles. However, HF is a very corrosive and a highly toxic substance. Due to hazards associated with the storage, use, and exposure of HF to humans and the environment, there is a need to find safe, yet equally effective alternatives to HF as a cleaning agent. Improvements in cleaning processes, development of available technologies, and utilization of cleaning products containing natural and various benign polymers and surfactants are healthy and environmentally sound alternatives to HF for car wash applications. However, these alternatives may not be as effective as HF. -2012 The Korean Society of Industrial and Engineering Chemistry. Published by Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved. http://komfg.com/files/2012/02/ABF_HF1.pdf If MDR does not remove the water spots, this is the next course of action. Always try the least invasive technique first. Directions for use for water spot removal on Opti Coat Pro and Pro Plus: 1. Wash surface to remove non-bonded surface contamination / dirt. 2. Inspect the water spots (with a magnifier if possible). 3. Wearing gloves, goggles, and respiratory mask, spray the wheel acid directly onto a sponge. 4. Generously wipe onto water spot affected areas, agitate a little, keeping the surface wet. (The spots may fizz a little at first. You will see them going away as they dissolve.) 5. Wait 30-60 seconds. Rinse very well with fresh water. 6. Dry and inspect. The water spots and anything else that was on the surface should be eliminated. In very extreme instances, another application may be necessary. 7. If the spots are still a little visible after a second attempt with acid, you can use a blue waffle finishing pad and Optimum Car Wax on a low speed to polish the last bit. (Note: This can only be done with a finishing pad and Car Wax.) There are no abrasives, to remove coating, or abrade the surface, which could negatively affect the hydrophobic properties of the coating. 8. Finish with Car Wax, Opti-Seal, or Instant Detailer. The coatings are not affected by this acid, nor should the paint be affected on a non-coated car. The wheels that these products are commonly used for are clear coated as well. • PRO C-33 Wheel Brightener Back Magic Wheel Cleaner • ALU BRITE Detail King Wheel Brightener • Meguiars Wheel Brightener Ardex Wheel Brightener Caution: Unlike most acids, HF does not cause a burning sensation, however