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Everything posted by Heijneker

  1. Heijneker

    My pretty quick detail process

    Hey all, I'd like to share my updated detail process, may be of use to some of you. I'm a professional detailer and love efficiency. I work for a used car dealer, so I need to be quick to earn some money! Luckily, it doesn't have to be perfect, but it does need to look nice! After listening to Yvan Lacroix ALOT, I lost a lot of time in my process: I start off with walking around and spraying any glue, tar and sap with T.AR. Remover. Then I take a blowgun and a damp ONR/OPP mix towel and use that combo on buttons, emblems, cracks, vents and such. First you lay the towel over a vent for example, blow with the gun into the towel, remove towel and blow again. I then remove the matt and blow under and besided the seat and the carpet. The matts and carpet I hit with the Dyson V15 detect. After this it's time for the wash. I spray Optimum Power Clean 1:2 on the wheels and wheel wells, trim, engine bay, badges, sills, hinges and window frames. If needed, the rims get acid or a fallout remover. Also if needed, I brush the wheels and the engine bay. I then pressure wash everything, starting with the engine bay and avoid the Power Clean drying anywhere. After that, I wash the car with ONR and, if needed, follow by claying with a fallout remover. After this, I proceed on the interior again. Starting off with an Upholstery clean on all seats using the Nathan Flannal Rotary Seat Cleaning Method. I use a DeWalt Rotary, Optimum Power Clean 1:6 on stains, and foam Optimum Carpet & Fabric Clean & Protect 1:6 on everything. I wipe the seats and any overspray off with a TRC Double Twistress. Then, with the damp ONR/OPP towel from before, I wipe everything down and vacuum with a brush attachment. Where needed I use a crevice attachment. I dry the sills with another towel. Perform these steps one seat/boot at the time, starting at the front passenger's seat and ending at the driver's. I rarely use Power Clean on hard interior surfaces anymore. Then it's time to start polishing. I basically only use the Rupes Blue Wool pads on a Zentool 21e2. I might use Intensive/Hyper Polish for a one step, or Hyper Compound followed by Hyper Polish for a 2-step. Most of the time I 2-step the hood and 1-step the rest. After polishing, I dress exterior plastics with Optimum Protect plus with a towel (and a sponge) and dress the tires. Then I wipe off the polish residue with a ONR damp towel and dry with Car Wax. Final step is glass and glossy interior surfaces. Use a TRC FTW towel damp from ONR and follow up with a dry one (or waffle weave) . That's how I currently detail cars! It takes me around 2-2.5 hours and am hoping to get that further down still!
  2. I wanted to share some light on the most underrated product in the Optimum line-up. T.A.R.! Yesterday I got a car in to detail, that had a load of low quality stickers removed. It had glue ALL. OVER. Little glue balls everywhere on the paint, on the glass, wipers, between the rubbers and on the plastics. It was everywhere, even on the tires! This is due to the fact that the company that removes the stickers, uses a spray on and rinse off sticker remover. However, that product doesn't work that well, and a portion of the glue just repositions. The stickers that were removed were also of a horrible quality and the glue is very stubborn. Luckily a couple of days ago, since it's raved about massively online, I ordered some AutoSmart Tardis. This is a tar and glue remover that can be rinsed off as well. It's apparantly very safe to use on a car, and very powerfull. To boot, price per quantity is a lot cheaper than T.A.R! First things first, I pre-washed the car with Power Clean 5:1 and rinsed off. This car was already clean (except for the glue), but now it was even cleaner. After this, I should have ONR'd it first, but I didn't, small mistake, excusè moi. Instead I sprayed Tardis as much as possible, and wiped it in with my hands. It already destroyed the sprayer and it irritated my throat. I was working outside and Tardis pretty quickly evaporated to leave a dry car. Another problem to note, is that it doesn't really seem to work as well on a wet car, without agitation. There were some big tar spots on the flanks, which didn't bleed out untill I wiped the Tardis in. I then rinsed off and the Tardis formed a white film when rinsed off. Some glue came off with it, but less than I had hoped! I used about 500ml of product and one sprayer lol. It didn't damage any part of the car one bit though, so that's great! Next I tried Optimum T.A.R.. Price per litre is of course way higher than Tardis, about 400% more. Yikes! So let's try to use about 400% less product! Of course, T.A.R. smell great and doesn't irritate your skin or airways one bit. Heck, I think you could accidently consume a little and it won't hurt a bit. I sprayed about 3 times per panel and wiped it in with my hands to spread it around. Spots I couldn't really rub it in (wipers, in between rubber trim), I would spray directly Now this is where it gets unfair, which turns this comparison into a no-contest. I then proceeded to slip on a Microfiber Scrub mitt...... AND WASH THE CAR..... YIKES! This was a white car, and from some previous testing, this works on a white car that's intented for a dealership. Not ideal I guess, but couldn't say the car was anymore swirled than it already was. And it had glue ALL OVER, so what could go wrong? This step, being the agitation, is essential, I used T.A.R. as a spray on rinse off product before, but that doesn't work nearly as well. Comparable to Tardis. I Should have agitated Tardis as well for a fair comparison. The glue came off pretty easily. After about 15 minutes off scrubbing, it was ready to be rinsed off. It's amazing to see the amount of glue the mitt had picked up, it was crazy! The T.A.R. had turned it into a white slurry which would stick to the mitt that would then deposit it on ridges. The best thing about T.A.R. is, and what seperates it from Tardis, is that it doesn't dry out and it prevents the glue from sticking again! So the glue, which is now a white slurry, rinses off very easily. The T.A.R. itself, however, doesn't rinse off as easily. You can rinse it all you want, but it leaves a layer on the car. Which is a good thing! It's what prevents the glue from sticking again. It also makes T.A.R. the best beading product I have ever seen lol. So after T.A.R, just spray the car with Power Clean 5:1 again (and agitate with the brush), and rinse off! Then it's completely gone. In the end of this completely unfair comparison, I preferred T.A.R. to Tardis, mainly since it doesn't irritate the airways and probably isn't that more expensive than Tardis. I used maybe €1-2 of product for the whole car, so who cares. Where Tardis is considered safe, T.AR. could be considered super safe! You know you just can't go wrong with it, where I'm not 100% sure with Tardis. With the right process T.A.R. will probably work just as well as Tardis, since it doesn't dry out and because it leaves a film on the car. I'm sure that a chemical resistant sprayer would survive Tardis for longer, but T.A.R. works with every sprayer! Of course, this is after just one car with Tardis, and I still have 4.5 litres remaining. It's certainly an awesome product, so let's see if I find a way where Tardis works better for me. Maybe follow instructions for once, which I believe says to pour it on a rag and rub the tar or adhesive.
  3. Heijneker

    Random Observations

    Some awesome insight into Optimum Gloss Coat (and Hyper-Seal)! An awesome product which I hope to experience somewhere next year. I take some time in getting to know the rest of the line first. I did apply Hyper Seal like Gloss coat, with Paint Prep and the foam applicator. It leveled completely on it's own and is still going strong after nearly 6 months. No crazy beading or sheeting, but certainly still there. And I don't wash it that often anymore.
  4. Heijneker

    How to foam Power Clean?

    I'm currently using OPC as a pre-wash before an ONR wash and polish. Using the IK Foam Pro 12, which is about a year old, I foam it 5:1 with the orange (biggest flow) tip. I air it up using a compressor. It produces awesome foam and cleans amazingly well, but it constantly cloggs up the filter. I can't even finish a car, before it start sputtering and I need to clean the filter. A large part of the filter turns black, which is pretty easily rinsed out. How do I prevent this from happening and get consistent performance for longer time? I really like the foam, because it gives me slightly longer dwell time in direct sunlight.
  5. Heijneker

    How to foam Power Clean?

    Thanks for the responses! Good to hear this isn't a common problem. @Mr.Outback that's some very smart thinking!! It's a very big compressor and it's definitely not oil-less, probably not filtered either. I work at a dealer and use their air-lines. This sounds like a real possibillity, thanks! Tomorrow I'll clean it thoroughly and pump it up by hand. Let's see how that works and I'll update here once I know more.
  6. Heijneker


    Great, Ron. To be clear, is this a recent improvement? I've gotten one from TRC EU on 9-2021 which looks the same. Is it the same or has it been tweaked slightly now? Anyway, it's the best, easiest and quickest way to clean pads!
  7. Heijneker


    Optimum made the smoothest DA polisher even smoother?? And I'm not even surprised! Very eager to get my hands on one. It will probably take a while though, before it reaches Holland.
  8. I just noticed that the Zentool 21e2 has disappeared from the OPT website. Has it been discontinued? Will it be replaced with a 21e3? If not, I need to stock up on a lifetime supply of 21e2's....
  9. Heijneker

    Zentool 21e2 Production stopped?

    Phew! Very cool to hear, I'll be sure to pick one or two up and very curious about any information!
  10. I've been using Protectant plus for a while now. Love the smell, love the look (most of the times) and the ease of use. Mostly I've used it with the Opti-Bond gun on exterior, interior and engine bay plastics. Leaves a great finishes that really darkens the surface. Today I used it with a spray bottle and MF towel on a scooter with plastics and leather. I sprayed a bit on the MF towel and wiped the surfaces for some nice 50/50's: Nice! After wiping the whole surface again, the finish was completely even. There was bit of plastic on the exhaust where Protectant Plus wouldn't work. No difference visible! It just evaporated completely, even after wiping it multiple times.
  11. Heijneker

    Optimum Protectant Plus Results

    Jup! If I remember reading it correctly, it's the Dr. G's favourite!
  12. Heijneker

    Help with Opti-Bond gun!

    Hey all, I've recently gotten the Opti-Bond Spray Gun and I've been loving it. It took me some practice to get used to it, and I'm still learning. The finish it gives on tires and trim is beautiful, but I could definitely use some tips from the pros! I would like to hear where and how others are using the gun in their detailing process. Namely on exterior plastics, how do you get an even finish and remove/prevent overspray on paint/glas? Do you wipe the plastics down afterwards, and if so, how quickly? Often times, when I wipe it down afterwards with an MF towel, I take off patches of the dressing. What should I be looking for when tuning the nozzle? Air pressure is set to 4 Bar (60 psi) and Opti-Bond @1:1. On plastics I use Protectant plus. Preparation: Plastics and tires are cleaned with Power Clean 1:3, pressure rinsed, plastics are washed with ONR and then left to dry.
  13. Using OCFCP @1:3 foamed with an IK 12, I got these van's seats back from the dead. These were naaaaaastyyyyyyy. Now the weird thing is, the overspray has stained the painted(?) metal backboard behind the seats. I haven't had this problem this bad before, but I did notice it before. I wiped the foam off right away, but noticed it had turned yellow. The backboard was cleaned with ONR already, so it probably wasn't dirt. I tried Power Clean and OCFCP again to see if I can remove it, but that didn't work. What happened here and how do we prevent/cure it?
  14. Yesterday I tested some more with OCFCP, but not on a van sadly. I foamed it with an IK Foam Pro 12 @1:3 and very liberally, it got everywhere and I let it dry for 2 hours to see if I would run into problems. It was even on the front window, side glass and rear view mirror. I got it off everything with a regular ONR wipe, except for the dried droplets on glass. I tried reapplying straight, Power Clean 10:1 and Hyper Polish; no succes. I then grabbed the TRC Interior Scrub Mitt (AWE-SOME tool!) with just ONR 256:1 and it took it right off. Will try that on the next van as well.
  15. Heijneker

    Problem with Hyper Compound

    Hey All, I sometimes experience some problems when using Hyper Compound. It causes weird staining on occassion, see pictures below: Situation: car was washed with ONR and dried. I used Hyper Compound on a 6.25' OPT Orange Waffle Pad and the Zentool 21E2 on speed 2. Pad had been cleaned with Power Clean 6:1, than ran through the New Optimum Pad Washer with ONR. Residue was removed with damp ONR cloth and dried. The staining can only be removed by polishing. I've tried several times, this keepa happening. And this isn't the first time this happened. What's causing this and how do I prevent it from happening? I shook the bottle well, and it has some stainless steel nuts in it. Thanks in advance!
  16. Heijneker

    Water Beading

    So I'm a fond user of Opti-Seal and Optimum car Wax, and of course Optimum No Rinse. I love the ease of use and the efficiency. On a car that was clayed, sealed and waxed, about three weeks ago and last washed a couple of days ago, I find the beading insufficient. Below is a picture from the car this morning, after a night of rainfall. What would you suggest to improve beading and get the tight round beads that I want to see. Thanks in advance.
  17. It's a very weird problem, Stephen! I've never had an issue with plastics either. Some slight difficulties with glass but that's it. There seems to be a chemical reaction between the metal backboards and the product, turning the foam yellow and staining the backboard. I've had it happen to 3 vans now. The weird thing is, I tested on 2 vans on an invisible spot behind the seats; no reaction or staining. But then, when I sprayed the seats, the overspray that hit the backboard did react and caused staining. Very strange.... Previously I used it at 6:1, but have gotten way better results at 3:1 and using more. Stains just freaking disappear before my eyes after dwell time and using a scrub mitt. I'll try making a new solution with distilled water, hopefully that will solve my problem. Using towels behind the seats sounds like a good idea as well! Sadly not really possible on some vans, but with most it is!
  18. Thanks for the input. . . I definitely don't wanna do that, OCFCP works way too good and I want to stay with OPT products. If this keeps happening I may have to, or at least think of a different way to apply. Like I said, this didn't really happen before. I use demineralised water to dilute OCFCP, from a company that supplies to professional glass cleaners. Is that causing problems somehow? Why does the foam turn Yellow on contact?Why was I unable to replicate the problem on the previous van's backboard? Was it because I had cleaned it with ONR beforehand?
  19. Sad to report that it happened again, on another van. I wiped it off right away, but had already turned yellow and stained the backboard.
  20. Heijneker

    New Opti-Seal Bottle

    I stand corrected, should've known Dr. G doesn't make mistakes! 😉
  21. Heijneker


    Awesome! Looking forward to trying it out.
  22. Heijneker

    New Opti-Seal Bottle

    I think Dr. G was reffering to Hyper Seal but misspoke, but I may be wrong. Would be cool if it indeed was about OS!
  23. Today I tried to replicate the problem, on the same backboard even, but wasn't able to! I think I figured out the problem; Yesterday was the first day after a 3 week hiatus. I think the OCFCP had seperated, like it does over time, but I didn't shake it before use. Today I did shake it and it didn't stain after a minute of dwell time. It did leave a bit of residue, but an ONR damp towel took that right off. Phew!
  24. Thanks for the quick reply, Ron! Wow, didn't know that OCFCP was this powerful. It doesn't irritate on the skin one bit, even if let to dry. I noticed staining on glass sometimes as well, but that seemed to be the protectant. With some effort it could be removed. On the backboard pictured above I tried ONR concentrate to no effect. Also Hyper Polish didn't do the trick. I guess it's permanent damage. Tomorrow I may try to replicate the problem and film it. Anyway, I'll have to think of something to minimize overspray. Maybe apply it with a soaked towel/mitt. I'll keep you updated!