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  1. Like
    Mr.Outback reacted to Tug Bankert in Many are Called but Few are Chosen   
    One thing I have set out to do is learn more about the profit side of the detailing business. For many years I focused only on the art of detailing. The more time I spent the more successful I felt. I decided to open up a legitimate detailing business due to the demand from the local dealers to get their cars detailed. I made almost every mistake possible in dealing with people. 
             Dealers would send us every nasty car they had and they were, of course, all black . As the dealers were becoming cheaper, they were sending less and less cars out and opted to detail the cars on their own. I preferred dealer cars because it was a matter of comfort. Once I learned about coatings I made the transition to focusing on retail customers. The process was slow and painful. Our website was the main source of marketing. I expected customers to call and ask for coatings. I learned that, if you offer it, you must communicate it. No one will beat your door down and beg you to take their money. 
                I have never  been comfortable calling customers and asking them for $1500 to coat their car and I never will be comfortable with it. I have sold a coating to many who just came in for a basic complete detail. It will not be that everyone purchases a coating but it will be more than zero based on asking no one. Even if you sell one coating a month it will build your confidence enough to make it a normal practice. As you are more sure of yourself it will reflect in your tone and your success rate will be increased.
           I have seen many detail shops drop off the map or fade away into the background or just never progress in skill or profit because they refuse to put themselves in the vulnerable position of selling. You could have the greatest marketing campaign but no sales skills and you will never convert them into money.
            Do not become complacent in business or live in a state of defeat. Find mentors and ask as many relevant questions as you can. Learn from those who are succeeding. Learn from your mistakes. Anyone can detail. Not everyone is going to be profitable. 
             Improve your skills for sure, but work on your business too. Take a business class or 2. Visit a successful detail shop and get all the training you can. Be one of the chosen by getting hungry for knowledge. Passion does not pay the bills but it is a good place to start. If you don't have the passion, either get it or choose a different field. Once you have secured the passion, learn everything you can about running a profitable business. 
              Detailing is not difficult. Dealing with consumers can be....a big ego will ensure your defeat. Let go of ego and embrace a humble spirit, both at home and at work. 
             Thanks for reading
              Live to learn
  2. Like
    Mr.Outback got a reaction from KIS76@ in OC 3   
    The coating tester I've seen on Youtube that seems most thorough is Scott HD, and he usually pronounces a coating "dead" once it stops beading and sheeting (in effect, behaves the same as water on clear-coated paint).  Many other Youtubers declare a coating "dead" or dying once it resorts to sheeting.
    My OptiCoat Pro+ goes from beading to sheeting in the areas where road debris frequently deposit themselves on the coating.  My understanding is if that happens, it's time for a maintenance wash (usually ONR,  but about every 4 months M-Wash or (rarely) Power-Clean followed by rinse/ONR w/ distilled water/micro-fiber dry/Hyper-Seal.).
  3. Like
    Mr.Outback reacted to KellyKona in Just had Opticoat Pro installed and there are now swirls all over my car   
    They are "redoing" it and claim they can fix the vinyl. 
  4. Thanks
    Mr.Outback reacted to Ron@Optimum in when to toss towels   
    the only Optimum product we recommend disposal of the applicator towels is Clear Coat Restorer (and it comes with disposable towels).  I've been able to clean towels and applicator pads after Gloss-Coat, OCP, Tire Protectant, Gel Coat Restorer, Hyper Seal, etc.  I recommend soaking in hot water and Power Clean/dish detergent immediately after use.  Allowing coating towels to dry can make them unusable.  Microfiber does wear out over time (the cheaper the towel, the quicker it loses it's microfiber characteristics) - then it becomes a shop towel for me - tires, wheels, engines, and other heavy duty uses. 
  5. Like
    Mr.Outback reacted to stephen.details in Annoyed by those who don’t believe in ONR   
    In light of this thread, here’s a contrast to those negative nellies that proves ONR an effective cleaner 
  6. Like
    Mr.Outback reacted to Ron@Optimum in OC 3   
    I can promise you that beading is one of the last things Dr G looks at and is really just a byproduct of the characteristics he is concerned about.  Tug and I have both commented on the obsession some have with beading - the amount, the size, how quickly they disperse.  I get that beading is one of the easiest observable factors, but the cheapest wax on the shelf will create beads.  The qualities Dr G is looking for, in no particular order, are durability, hardness, chemical resistance, appearance, ease of application, value, etc.
  7. Like
    Mr.Outback reacted to bcwang in OC 3   
    Awesome, I just saw too!  Scotthd on YouTube. 
    It looks like pro and pro plus are in the test too, as well as lots of other pro coatings. Well I guess I finally get to see what I wished for. 
    He has had other coating tests with 5-7 year products and in his conditions they don’t seem to last all that long. So it’ll be interesting to see if Opticoat’s supposed permanence allows it to shine vs others on this test panel. 
  8. Like
    Mr.Outback reacted to Ron@Optimum in OC 3   
    I'm glad Tug made the point about layering - when Pro+ or OC3 are applied you call that layering since they go on separately, but after they bond it's not layers in the traditional sense.  The products become one with the clear coat with no discernible differences and that's why OC is so durable.
  9. Like
    Mr.Outback reacted to Ron@Optimum in Brand new car headlights   
    From Dr G - Opti-Lens bonds to the coating on top of the lens, however if the coating has already oxidized then you have to remove it before applying Opti-Lens. If on the other hand the coating is new and not oxidized then you can apply Opti-Lens on top of it to prevent oxidation. That is why there are two different answers depending on the condition of the headlight.
  10. Like
    Mr.Outback reacted to Setec Astronomy in ONR vs new products   
    If I wasn't clear, it's certainly not the ONR staining the media, it's that the dirt doesn't release from the media.  Something about ONR makes it penetrate so deeply that it doesn't wash out easily.  This was discussed at length on this forum years ago, but we lost a lot of content here when a former moderator, who like Ron, was a go-between between the forum and Dr. G, deleted all of his posts, losing a lot of data and making a lot of threads useless.  At any rate, I'm looking forward to using up my older ONR and ONRWW so I can get to the new versions with better dirt release.
  11. Like
    Mr.Outback got a reaction from Ron@Optimum in Interior Cleaning: Opti-Clean versus ONR?   
    Good to know, thanks.  Detailer just finished OptiCoat Leather and Vinyl for my vehicle (needed a day to apply/cure).  Was pleased that leather still felt like leather and didn't become plastic.  Was advised of cleaning procedures so will get hold of Protectant Plus for future maintenance.  FYI except for glass OptiCoat's now protecting the entire vehicle.
  12. Like
    Mr.Outback reacted to Ron@Optimum in Hello from Colorado   
    Opti-Seal will bond to Gloss-Coat and adds some protection.  It's the Pro coatings that wax/sealants won't last on.  That said, Hyper Seal is the best product for all OPT ceramics.
  13. Like
    Mr.Outback got a reaction from cptzippy in Product Test - 303 Graphene   
    Some Youtube detailers (Scott HD in particular) have remarked the early batches of 303 Graphene (late 2020) did not last as long as more recent batches.
  14. Thanks
    Mr.Outback got a reaction from Heijneker in NEW FORMULA HYPER SEAL   
    On Pro+,  I've also found Hyper Seal, after curing for over an hour, makes Pro+ pretty grabby to point that I have to maintain firm grip on the microfiber towel during drying, otherwise the drag will yank the towel right out of my hand.  Pro+ with Hyper-Seal does bead well and does OK job in shedding most road dirt (bugs do stick, however, though usually ONR will wash them off with gentle agitation).
    The drag effect's less pronounced on Hyper-Seal'ed glass, though I routinely use Opti-Coat glass cleaner on the glass as well.
    Although "off label" use, Hyper-Seal on clean black tires' sidewalls helps keep brake dust off of 'em.
  15. Thanks
    Mr.Outback got a reaction from LostVulpine in Product Test - 303 Graphene   
    My exposure to 303 Graphene's limited (used it on "dealer applied" ceramic coating as dealer coating didn't work all that well., and also tried 303 on some other glass/plastic surfaces).  Scratched surfaces immediately became stained thanks to graphene parking itself in the scratches.  Water beading and gloss were OK but nothing to be super hyped about.  Local detailer wasn't impressed by 303, which he removed along with all other coatings on my car to apply Pro+. 
    A Youtube detailer, Scott HD, found 303 Graphene's only moderately durable, also remarking that 303  Graphene had a bad production batch (which mine was part of) that had some impact on durability. 
    I've been trying Hyper-Seal on some "off-label" ceramic surfaces and so far it's performed better than products like NuFinish Ceramic or TurtleWax Seal&Shine.
  16. Like
    Mr.Outback reacted to Ron@Optimum in No Rinse and Bird poop (and bug guts)   
    From the good doctor:
    Good questions. Etching for the most part is chemical break down of paint. When bird poop or bug guts are left on paint the acids and enzymes in these products will break down paint over time and sun light will accelerate it. The haziness or cloudiness is basically broken down clear coat paint. Etching from water spots is due to the caustic nature of sodium and calcium silicates and phosphates breaking down paint and leaving residue on the surface.
    With ceramic coated cars there is no break down of paint since acids, enzymes, or caustics can not penetrate the surface of ceramic clear coat. There is only some staining or residue left that needs to be removed or dissolved. For ceramic coated cars after removing the bird droppings and bug guts which are organic just leaving the stain in sun light will cause UV to break down the stains which disappear after a few days. With water spots which are inorganic it has to be dissolved chemically or removed mechanically to get the stains out.  
  17. Like
    Mr.Outback reacted to Autokosmetik in Opti-Coat Pro3   
    Clearcoat is generally 1.5 to 2 mils thick, not microns. These are often confused. A mil is a thousandth of an inch and a micron is a millionth of a meter (thousandth of a milimeter). 1.5 to 2 mils is about 35 to 50 microns. Also it's not necessary to remove 2 microns before application, but 1 or 2 microns might be removed when doing a once-over polish with something like hyper polish. Hope that helps! I just heard about Opti-Coat 3 and am excited to try some out for my clients.
  18. Haha
    Mr.Outback reacted to Setec Astronomy in OleoPhobia   
    I was oleophobic for a while.  But then I switched to mostly olive oil.
  19. Like
    Mr.Outback reacted to toddj in NEW FORMULA HYPER SEAL   
    Invest in Rags to Riches if you can get it.  it's much more efficient than PowerClean, and designed specifically for MF towels.  the 1st time you use it on your towels, like The Rag Company suggests, 2-3oz in a 5gallon bucket, warm water.  Let the towels soak for 2 days.  you'll be amazed what it strips out of your towels.  It revives your towels to better than new shape!
  20. Like
    Mr.Outback got a reaction from Ron@Optimum in Experience rinsing ONR w/ distilled water   
    Letting the sprayed distilled water + ONR solution dwell for a couple of minutes  seems to help with bug removal, though after microfiber drying I find buggy windows usually need additional cleaning.  Still, this process's far easier for mildly dirty vehicles than lugging out/ using the buckets, sponges, etc., and can be done in the garage with little mess.   Also, spraying the ONR instantly shows how well the coating's protecting the coated vehicle.
  21. Like
    Mr.Outback reacted to Setec Astronomy in Self healing Coating?   
    You know years ago on another forum there were some experiments run by one of the members, and it was shown that the things that detailers do to "strip" the surface don't really work.  This was for a standard sealant--washed with Dawn and the beading went away--sealant stripped!  Except then the surface was wiped with IPA and the beading returned.  Dawn stripped!
    It turns out that a lot of things can "clog" the surface of a coating or sealant, which disrupts the beading, then if you can remove the contaminant without removing the LSP, then the beading will return.  Bottom line we found out a lot of the things we thought were stripping sealants weren't really doing that.  This was backed up by an anonymous chemist on that forum who actually worked at a mfr. of car products in Europe, and validated the results, telling us it was very difficult to chemically remove the silicone components from their mixing equipment, and that the idea that dish detergent or an IPA wipe would remove a sealant was nonsense.
  22. Like
    Mr.Outback reacted to A&J in OleoPhobia   
    Coat one side of the car, leave the other side bare and go drag racing 😁 Compare which side cleans easier after your engine explodes from all the revving 😂
  23. Like
    Mr.Outback reacted to Ron@Optimum in OC 3   
    Troy, you are welcome to your opinion on how complicated Pro Coatings are to use...but as the Tech specialist for Optimum, I get the calls when something goes wrong.  I'm intimately aware of how often people ignore, disregard, or "creatively interpret" instructions.  If something goes wrong with a pro install, it can be fixed but as Tug can verify, it's not easy.  Add to that OPT does not market and the majority of impressions are made via forums, facebook, youtube, and other social media.  Bad experiences with Pro products in the hands of amateurs broadcast on social media could have hamstrung the introduction of ceramics (which I can promise was a hard sale up front).  Finally, this is Dr G's business model and he's comfortable with it.  Loyal Pro installers helped him gain traction in a world of Big Boys and he rewards them with limited access to quality products.
  24. Like
    Mr.Outback reacted to Lowejackson in OC 3   
    It would be an interesting experiment but suspect using glass polish would be very efficient at introducing more swirls.  Glass is vastly harder compared to car paint so would be safer sticking with paint polish.
  25. Like
    Mr.Outback reacted to Ron@Optimum in Hyper-Seal on other ceramic coatings   
    There is an excellent video explaining what's going on and how to remedy -