Joe V

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About Joe V

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    Optimum Apprentice

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    flagstaff, az
  1. Joe V

    Will P21S Paint Cleanser help with this?

    Here is a photo with some Trade Secret partially wiped off: The little specks or dots are what I'm talking about. Then after it was buffed off.
  2. Joe V

    Will P21S Paint Cleanser help with this?

    This happens no matter where the car is parked or stored. I can perform a complete detail and have the paint perfectly smooth with multiple coats of any type of wax, and just with occasional driving, leaving the car parked in a garage during the day, it still happens over time. With more time, the worse it gets. This is the reason I'm thinking it may have something to do with a chemical interaction between the paint and the dirt (usually dusty around here so dirt is always around). Some cars have no problem with this, they tend to be a lighter color such as a silver (a couple examples makes are Ford and Toyota). I've had other cars that are worse, maybe not as bad as mine, but where the dirt sticks in rather quickly and only claying will remove it. I could try to get a picture, however it would difficult to capture this. The paint looks great in photos, it's more of a rough feel and it shows up during waxing (I could try to photograph it with wax on it...). Thanks for your thoughts! p.s. The other major problem we have up here is pine tree sap. We are in the middle of a huge pine forest. Luckily this one is manageable - isopropyl alcohol dissolves the sap very quickly.
  3. Hello all, I was hoping to get some expert opinions with this question. TX is an area that may have this problem. The paint on my car (and some that I work on) very quickly accumulates dirt particles that stick in the paint. I have a dark blue German car and live in AZ where the sun can be pretty intense. No matter how much I keep my car garaged and clean and waxed, it seems that the dirt around here just embeds itself in the paint. Claying removes this dirt, but I don't want to clay all the time. If I wax over the embedded dirt, the paint looks good but the particles can be lightly seen while removing wax. I think the issue has to do with soft paint that gets hot in the sun, allowing dirt to imbed. Maybe it's also the paint formula and the pH of the dirt. I've worked on some lighter Toyotas that don't have this issue and they aren't washed nearly as often. When I remove the dirt with clay, the clay bar reveals a reddish-brown substance, which I believe is good old AZ volcanic dirt. Anyway, will a paint cleanser like P21s help remove this dirt so I don't have to clay all the time? P21s claims that it may do this. I don't mind getting some and trying it but I wanted to get some opinions before I do. Or other ideas? Anyone work on cars like this? Thanks JoeV.
  4. Joe V


    Do these work with a metabo? Do they add a lot of drag or weight to a rotary? I've read a lot about them but have never seen one.
  5. Joe V

    Do Pros ever get splatter?

    Thanks for the responses. Lately I've been having better luck. As SoCal suggested with a fresh pad I've been working a little product into the pad with my fingers to ensure good lubrication (but it won't fling out cause it's in the pad), then using a little dab of product on the paint as needed, centering the pad upon startup. And watching the speed as Anthony talked about. I still got a tiny bit a couple of times, but overall there was no mess. SoCal that's a good example of good personal protective equipment. Can't imagine polish in the eyes.
  6. Joe V


    Anyone? Forced rotation orbital vs. rotary? Festool? Bueller? Bueller?
  7. Joe V


    I'm also considering getting the Festool, my question is do you (anyone??) prefer to finish with a rotary or a forced rotation orbital polisher like the Festool or Flex? How do your results compare between the two? Currently I have great results finishing with my Metabo and a finishing pad, but would like to have another option, partly because all paints behave a little differently and partly because I think is some cases a true DA machine would be more user friendly. I don't mind spending the extra $$ on the Festool over the Flex based on what I've read about the two, but if rotary machines finish better then I'll probably just keep using the rotary 100% of the time. Thoughts? Anyone happy they have both?
  8. I am wondering if splatter is 100% avoidable while using a rotary. I've searched and read quite a bit about reducing it, and I've been able to eliminate it while polishing with 6.5" CCS or flat pads with my rotary by applying product in small amounts to the center of the pad (on the vehicle first) and working it in. Various articles and how-to videos helped a lot. However, I'm still getting splatter sometimes. Specifically, I'm working on a dark green truck that has severe pinstriping (from being driven through a pine forrest) and I'm using and having good luck with hyper-compound. A couple questions are: 1. 7.5" pads (with the "pocket" or CCS) seem to give me the most problem, do others find this to be true? To be able to polish with all of the pad I apply a little compound to the outside of the pad which adds to the problem. It's nice to use the outer portion of the pad to reach tight spots but how is this done without applying product on the outside of the pad? I mostly add product on the vehicle then place the pad so that the product is in the middle of the pad, which helps for most of the time. 2. Ditto foamed wool. If the entire pad surface has product to provide lubrication and compounding, does some fling out? I'm using a purple 6.5" LC. I am seeing this flinging a bit. 3. Menzerna seems worse than Optimum. IP seems only to fling dust, FPII just seems to fling everywhere. OK, this is a statement rather than a question. 4. Does priming a pad w/ water necessarily make splatter worse? Sorry if these are overly basic questions, thanks for your help. I have the rotary set between 1000 - 1500 rpm, speed doesn't seem to matter. J.V.
  9. Autoweek magazine recently had an article about detailing which was interesting....the detailers they featured pushed orbital machines but in every photo they were using rotary machines...probably the article was directed toward people new to machine polishing. Anyway, back to my question. There was a quote from one of the pro detailers that polishes made for older single stage paints contained mechanical abrasives, and polishes made for clear coats contained chemical polishes that basically work by dissolving the clear away in very small amounts. I always thought the opposite was true because I've worked on some old laquer paints that are extremely hard and I thought only heat and a chemical breakdown would work. Additionally, Hi-temp products seem to have been around a very long time and their directions typically say to work the product until it is gone, which indicates a chemical polish that evaporates. Could you shed any light on this without giving away any secrets? Thanks! Joe
  10. Joe V

    Boat detail!

    As soon as all this snow melts, which should be around June! To follow the boat anyway...the snow skiers are very happy right now.
  11. Joe V

    Boat detail!

    I spent some time experimenting with different products and I ended up with hypercompound and an orange LC pad, rotary 1500 rpm ish. Hi-temp sealant for first coat of protection. Sorry the photos aren't that great. The boat is over 20 years old.
  12. I apply a small amount everytime I wash my car and don't see any negative effects. However keep in mind my car is dark blue and there is a red dust around here that sticks in my paint if I leave my car in the sun too I try to keep max protection going. It helps that I ride a motorcycle from March to October to keep my car out of the sun, but I digress... Maybe the guys that work with optimum products daily know if it can be overused? Unless you're applying it every week I think it would be ok. Factors like weather, sunlight, where you park your car, etc certainly make a difference.
  13. Has anyone ever used a spindle extension with their rotary buffer? I need one to get under a rail on a boat I'm going to buff out (gel coat), but I can't seem to find the one that came with my metabo. So, I made one using an extension nut and threaded rod. I tack welded it together with a TIG weld. It's a little bit longer than the metabo one. I plan on being careful with "sideways" forces on my pad while buffing w/ the extension so the spindle bearings don't see too high of centerline torque forces. Any other tips out there while using an extension with a rotary? Thanks, Joe
  14. It seems that I've been recommending OCW to many of my coworkers and friends lately when they ask about something effective and easy to apply. I think one of my all time favorite waxes is Trade Secret (applying this wonderful stuff is addictive to me....), but for great protection that is easy to maintain I keep going back to OCW. I guess it's nice to eliminate the perception that waxing a car has to be a pain in the backside.
  15. I just wanted to say that I'm really impressed with Optimum spray wax...and I haven't even tried the new formula yet. I've been using the spray wax on an '03 silver Honda Civic where I live in northern Arizona where the sunlight is very intense, and even after a couple months of the car sitting out in the sun every day (at 7000 ft elevation), I still get beading after washing/rinsing, and the few bugs that get squashed on the front bumber seam to come off fairly easily. Good job Optimum....and it's easy to apply to boot. I especially like applying it to exposed black rubber and plastic bits to protect them from UV damage...we don't have a lot of atmosphere up here to filter out UV, and this application seems to be working well. I look forward to trying the new formula!!