Setec Astronomy

As far as glass, I think Dr. G had a liability concern about high spots reducing visibility. They also gave that warning for OC 2.0, which never stopped some of us from using it on glass. It has been stated that Opti-Glass is more resistant to wiper degradation than the other coatings, and it's easier to use, as I recall...I haven't used it for a few years.

I'm not a big QD user, and I rarely use a drying aid (relying on the rinseless polymers for drying lubrication). If you like using Opti-Seal as a drying aid, going over the car again with a QD a half hour later doesn't make much sense to me. I don't see what you're gaining with that (I have IDGE, although I can't remember if I've ever used it, and it does have that fluoropolymer additive that maybe gives it a slightly different characteristic than the Opti-Seal and most other QD's). I might be more inclined to do it the other way around but I'm just talking off the top of my head. You might also consider washing with ONRWW, which gives you some "wax" for drying lubricity, it's what I usually use these days. Then you could go over the car right after that with the Opti-Seal, and skip the "30 minutes later" part. But if what you are doing is working for you, there's nothing wrong with what you're doing, I'm just pointing out things that might be redundant or could save you some time.

Ron, is it on the Opticoat.com website? Because I looked before I posted and didn't see it so I presumed that was a Yvan/Dann thing that went away like the bed coating, etc. Oh wait, now I see it's a bullet point on the plan view of the Lambo or whatever that is, but it doesn't seem to appear in the menu anywhere.

So did Gloss-Coat have ceramic polymers in it before? If so, does it have more now, or different ones?

Cool! Not to sound like Eddie Murphy in Best Defense, but what the heck is a ceramic polymer?

I don't think they are doing the PPF anymore, are they?

Most people use a pump-up sprayer to pre-soak a really dirty car. I used a cheap Home Depot sprayer, seems these fancy IK foamers or something are what people use these days. It never really does anything for me, but I've never tried it with a heavier ONR mixture. You could also use Opti-Clean. I have pre-sprayed with another brand of waterless wash, that did seem to do a little more than the regular-dilution ONR.

Wait--wax??

Marine 31!?!?! Blasphemy! Kidding aside, Carpet & Fabric Cleaner is great stuff, took some staining out of the carpet around my dead pedal like it had never been there.

So Ron, you are saying to essentially use OPC as a microfiber detergent? Using 1/4 cup (2 oz) per load? And therefore no presoak? Is that safe for HE machines?

That does look terrible. Duragloss makes a product called Wax Eraser which is "formulated to easily remove wax and polish residue from textured and smooth surfaces". It comes in a little shoe polish bottle with a foam applicator on the end. It may have some different ingredients than what you've tried. The Intensive Polish you used was the orange stuff?

I would use the OPC at 1:3 (product:water). You don't have a picture you can post of the affected area, do you?

It's best to wipe polishes off trim before they dry. Be careful with the Magic Eraser as you don't want to scuff the trim. If ONR or OPC with a toothbrush hasn't worked, and you've also used IPA (paint prep), do you have a pressure washer? You need to be very careful with that but I would hope that would blast it off.

I've really gotta try that new version of ONR if you don't even have to get out of bed to use it!

Swirl-filling is usually wildly overstated. I doubt any product will do what you are thinking it will do. Usually a heavy paste wax is best for filling, but of course things like the classic glazes are intended for this purpose, back in the days when polishing was not as much of a science as it is now.