Ron@Optimum

A&J, that's a pretty open ended question. For some products, like ceramics, there are minimum cure times, but others are dependent on temperature and humidity. Gloss-Coat is a minimum of 1 hour, but Wax, Seal, Opti-Bond dry/bond almost immediately. For layering we suggest an hour wait.

The original moderator for this forum left the company and deleted his posts - hasn't effected the content.

TAR will not remove Gloss-Coat.

please contact Danny - danny@opticoat.com with your contact info and the name of your installer.

DIRECTIONS: 1. Clean the surface with Optimum Power Clean to remove any greases or waxes. 2. Decontaminate the surface with an Optimum Clay Towel, Mitt, or Bar. 3. Compound the paint with Optimum Hyper Compound and a wool pad to abrade the surface. Remove the compound residue. Goal is to remove oxidation. 4. Wipe surface with Optimum Paint Prep. Make sure surface is dry. Blow out all cracks to remove moisture and dust. 5. Apply only in a well ventilated area with panel and air temperatures between 60-85 F (15-30 C). 6. Wearing protective eyewear, a respirator rated for organic vapors, and nitrile gloves, saturate the edge of the supplied microfiber applicator (not quite to dripping), with Optimum Clear Coat Restorer (CCR). 7. Apply in a back and forth motion, keeping the edge of applicator saturated, and working the wet edge one panel at a time. Apply 1-2 coats back to back leveling with the applicator. 8. Avoid touching the surface after 5 minutes. 9. Optimum CCR is dry to the touch in 5 minutes, can be driven in 4 - 12 hours, waxed or polished in 24 hours and Coated in 48 hours. Second coat can be added after 1 week of curing. 10. Allow 12 hours or more before exposing to water or temperatures below 60 F (15 C). 11. Optimum CCR can be protected with Optimum Car Wax, Opti-Seal, or Gloss-Coat after 48 hours or more of curing.

you need to abrade (rough up the surface), Magic Eraser will not do that - I don't think you need to wet sand or use wool pad, but a polish should be enough.

You can apply CCR over single stage paint (your repaint) but it might require multiple layers. You need to "rough up" the base coat, at least lightly, for CCR to bond properly.

I think it will work fine, based on your methodology. It's always problematic when people use products in a manner they are not designed for, but in this case I think you should be good.

Yes, Pro installers have OC3 available and it's being installed now.

I keep my sponge in a covered container with ONR (not submerged but with solution) and periodically I turn it over to keep it moist. I don't use my ONR wash bucket/solution, but a fresh mix, and every so often (monthly) change it out.

the recommendation is 1 hour after coating IF Opti-Seal is used, 8 hours if not topped before getting wet.

The recommendation for applying Hyper Seal over ceramic coatings (Gloss-Coat OR Opti-Coat Pro) is wait 7 days. I'm sorry there's some bad info out there (some from me), but experience has taught that Hyper Seal (due to being Si02) can interfere with the cure process (primarily chemical resistance). There's no rule that you have to apply something over Gloss-Coat and if Opti-Seal is not available, you should wait the 7 days. When ceramics were first introduced we didn't top them (I have an Opti-Coat Pro car, coated 7 years ago by Yvan, it was not topped...and it's fine).

I'd say yes, it would work on Si02 coatings (Gloss-Coat is an Si02 hybrid) - can't speak for other coatings personally.

Hyper Seal works on Optimum Coatings because it contains some of the same components (unlike other waxes/sealants) - not knowing the chemistry of Armour Shield IX, I can't say if it will bond. Decontamination would have no effect on the bonding.

EB, I should add that over use of Power Clean will degrade both Gloss-Coat and TPC...normal use at suggested concentrations should not.