In WHICH order?


etl45

Recommended Posts

OK! SO my first post here~~~ I bougt myself a Porter Cable 7424 with some lake coutry pads~

 

I also got the OPTIMUM COMPOUND, POLISH, and POLI-SEAL.

 

So basically do i use it in the order? My car is about 5yrs old.. WHITE and got alot of swirls~~

 

Compound with orange pad on speed 6?

 

Polilsh after with white pad ?

 

and then top off with poli seal to protect and lock in?

 

THANKS!!! someone help plz~~~! :thumbsupup[1]:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello etl45 and welcome to the club. There are a lot of resources available to you here so feel free to inquire often!

 

One of the main theories in paint care is to always use the least agressive product first and if your method isn't giving you the results you desire, then move up the "agression" scale.

 

The orange pad is one of LC's most commonly used pads but depending which version you have, it could range from really stiff to only moderately stiff. (That's official speak there!) I would would start off with the the next "softest" pad and use the Optimum polish. There are some people who constantly run the PC @ speed 6, but for most defect removal I find that 5 is generally sufficient. Remember to work an area no larger than 2'x2' at a time and keep your arm speed about 1" to 2" per second. If you still have swirls after using the "softer" pad, step up to orange and try that. Depending on how much swirling you have, you may have to make a few passes over a given area.

 

Once you have "de-swirled" the paint, then use a finishing pad with the Poli-Seal to bring out the shine and add a layer of protection. The great thing about Poli-Seal is you don't have to totally wipe away the Optimum polish before applying PS. The products were designed by Doctor G to work in conjuction with each other, and trust me they do!!

 

Lastly, remember with all of the Optimum products, less is more. A good example of that is Anthony's buffing video where he is only using a nickel size dollop of polish for a panel. Poli-seal can be a bit tricky to master as it seems to melt into the paint and you have to fight the urge to overuse product.

 

Hopefully this gets you started in the right direction. If you have any other questions, feel free to PM me or post them here in the forum! :beerchug[1]: Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello etl45 and welcome to the club. There are a lot of resources available to you here so feel free to inquire often!

 

One of the main theories in paint care is to always use the least agressive product first and if your method isn't giving you the results you desire, then move up the "agression" scale.

 

The orange pad is one of LC's most commonly used pads but depending which version you have, it could range from really stiff to only moderately stiff. (That's official speak there!) I would would start off with the the next "softest" pad and use the Optimum polish. There are some people who constantly run the PC @ speed 6, but for most defect removal I find that 5 is generally sufficient. Remember to work an area no larger than 2'x2' at a time and keep your arm speed about 1" to 2" per second. If you still have swirls after using the "softer" pad, step up to orange and try that. Depending on how much swirling you have, you may have to make a few passes over a given area.

 

Once you have "de-swirled" the paint, then use a finishing pad with the Poli-Seal to bring out the shine and add a layer of protection. The great thing about Poli-Seal is you don't have to totally wipe away the Optimum polish before applying PS. The products were designed by Doctor G to work in conjuction with each other, and trust me they do!!

 

Lastly, remember with all of the Optimum products, less is more. A good example of that is Anthony's buffing video where he is only using a nickel size dollop of polish for a panel. Poli-seal can be a bit tricky to master as it seems to melt into the paint and you have to fight the urge to overuse product.

 

Hopefully this gets you started in the right direction. If you have any other questions, feel free to PM me or post them here in the forum! :beerchug[1]: Cheers

 

Isn't using a nickle dize dollop a little much? I hear of some Optimum users only using two or three pee sized dollops after the pad is primed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Isn't using a nickle dize dollop a little much? I hear of some Optimum users only using two or three pee sized dollops after the pad is primed.

 

I meant a Peruvian nickle.....they're much smaller! :beerchug[1]::lol: :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmmmm i cant get the polish to work with me.. it just seems to dry up almost right away and no more polish? soo i thought i wasnt using enough.. so i put alot of polish.. dosnt really seem to change anything..

 

i apply a quarter size amoung of polish for a 2x2 area with an applicater pad.. spread it around... and the start buffin with the PC.. but it just goes away? the polish is no where to be seen.. so nottin for me to work with... im scared to continue cause there is PAD and PAINT.. no polish in between...

 

help!!~

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you're using the PoliSeal then this is exactly what is expected to happen. The PoliSeal (PS) buffs out almost totally clear so you won't visually "see" it but it's there doing its job all the same.

 

So if you're working a 2x2 area with PS add about a quarter size dollop of product to the paint itself, work it in very well over that area for several minutes and then wipe down. Set your PC at around 4 or 5. With PoliSeal you'll use slightly more product than you would with Optimum Polish but like previously stated, once you get the pad primed you'll use less product for each panel.

 

At times you may need to rinse your pad out and then continue. As I do paint work I usually rinse my pad out 2 or 3 times during the course of polishing.

 

Hope this helps,

Anthony

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.