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3 hours ago, Tug Bankert said:

Pro 3 has insane chemical and scratch resistance compared to plus. 

If my current Pro+ performs well (and no, I won't be subjecting Pro + to tunnel washes, etc) then 3's a major contender for my next vehicle.

My present vehicle's been polished two times already (once when brand X coating was applied, 2nd when Pro + was applied) and I actually just missed getting Pro3  because my local Opti-Coat detailer wasn't authorized to sell it.  I've been told trying to "upgrade" now would not be wise.

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Should add our local detailer will be applying Pro3 , per its 4 step process, to a customer's Porsche.

 

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Pro 3 is a huge improvement from plus. We all know the plus is amazing. 3 is so much more chemical resistant and adds a ton more depth of color than plus. I have found that adding plus as a 5th layer to pro 3 makes an even bigger difference. This recommendation came from Danny Cantrell and he was right on.

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Absolutely love it. I have done 3 so far. I have not hit the learning curve yet but I'm getting there. If it gets a layer of plus on top it is ridiculously slick and hydrophobic 

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22 hours ago, Tug Bankert said:

Absolutely love it. I have done 3 so far. I have not hit the learning curve yet but I'm getting there. If it gets a layer of plus on top it is ridiculously slick and hydrophobic 

Sounds like the ultimate coating for those who can afford it.  Is adding "+" OK wrt the Pro3 warranty?  If so I'll pass the "+" recommendation on to our local detailer.

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Just curious....was mentioned that polishing is required for applying an Opti-Coat coating like Pro 3, but that the amount of clear coat removed could be minimal.  What about polishing with a very fine grade polish, like jewlers rouge or glass polish?  After chemical de-con, would that be sufficient to provide the grip necessary for a coating to adhere properly ?  This is assuming the paint surface is already blemish free, and that the applier then removes all polishing oils prior to coating.

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Polishing with hyper polish would be the product of choice. I would only ever recommend that polish because it was designed to be used before any opti coat coating

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30 minutes ago, Tug Bankert said:

Polishing with hyper polish would be the product of choice. I would only ever recommend that polish because it was designed to be used before any opti coat coating

Thnx for info Tug...sounds like hyper polish is relatively gentle.  I may ask my detailer to do only the __back__ of my Subaru Outback with any Pro 3 he has "left over" from another job  (I've been curious what happens to left-over coating product).  Reason is the vehicle's back gets exposed to the most dust and dirt and , other than lower rocker panels, is most vulnerable to scratching.  It might create a slight gloss mismatch but the protection may be worth it.  Does that make sense?

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Hyper Polish has a flexible cut, depending on pad choice.  I've removed medium scratches with it.  FYI, every Opti-Coat Pro syringe is numbered/registered to a specific job and installers are not allowed to use remnants for other projects.  We discourage using left over product for other jobs because it caused skimping on application.  Optimum had early issues with installers cutting back on product to add sales, but risking durability.  One syringe/one car.

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19 minutes ago, Mr.Outback said:

Thnx for info Tug...sounds like hyper polish is relatively gentle.  I may ask my detailer to do only the __back__ of my Subaru Outback with any Pro 3 he has "left over" from another job  (I've been curious what happens to left-over coating product).  Reason is the vehicle's back gets exposed to the most dust and dirt and , other than lower rocker panels, is most vulnerable to scratching.  It might create a slight gloss mismatch but the protection may be worth it.  Does that make sense?

Yes, it makes sense. Hopefully your installer will work with you. 

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7 hours ago, Mr.Outback said:

......  What about polishing with a very fine grade polish, like jewlers rouge or glass polish?  ....

 

It would be an interesting experiment but suspect using glass polish would be very efficient at introducing more swirls.  Glass is vastly harder compared to car paint so would be safer sticking with paint polish.

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While researching differences between SIO2, SIC and Graphene, I stumbled over a product called Holy Grail Lustro which makes some pretty heavy claims (10X thicker than anything else).  Apparently they're relying on SIO2 chemistry (they say it bonds to and can add a lot to clearcoat thickness, while SIG bonds to but adds very little clearcoat thickness).   They also dismiss graphene saying no current product has enough graphene to amount to much.  Perhaps Dr. G could shed light on that mystery?

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