Ron@Optimum

Opti-Coat Pro3

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bc,

If money was no object than sure, the sky is the limit. Ppf if properly maintained should last the useful life of a car which is usually 12 years or 200,000 miles. Ppf may get slightly weathered and edges get dirty but who cares, the paint underneath is stick veryuch protected from high impact damage , oxidation, etc. (Ppf can last much longer than 12 years if properly maintained, even in Florida). 

The weather may affect the cure times for a coating but just like you mentioned, 12 hours before water, 7 days until chemical hardness and 30 to be fully cured is what we should always follow. Who has time to calculate humidity levels and rise in Temps and change the cure times based on that. It's humidity that does the work. The more humid it is for me, the fast the coating cross links. Heat lamps will do nothing the speed up opti coatings. When I coat my personal vehicles, I throw a layer of opti seal on it an hour after coating and drive like normal right away. Pro 3 does not need the opti seal just so you know. 

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3 hours ago, Tug Bankert said:

 I throw a layer of opti seal on it an hour after coating and drive like normal right away. Pro 3 does not need the opti seal just so you know. 

Hi Tug,

What did you mean by pro3 not needing optiseal?  Does it have some different characteristic than the other coatings that make pre cure resistance to contaminants better to the point optiseal doesn’t add any benefit?

 

What about when you apply plus on top of pro3?  Wouldn’t that final coat act like plus and benefit from optiseal protection the same as pro plus?

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bc, 

Pro 3 is much harder than pro and therefore more chemical resistant. I could put opti seal on it but it's not necessary in my experience. The plus layer is just gloss and has the strength of what it is stuck too. Also remember that when we say "layer" , they are not independent layers. They all become one layer.

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