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CCR on Corvette Decklid after basecoat?

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Hi 

I recently purchased Optimum CCR for use on my 63 Corvette.  I did a repair on a damaged portion of the decklid, its about 3 by 6 inches.  I painted it with base coat and it looks good from a color blending perspective.  I have not clear coated it.  The rest of the decklid is fine. 

Question: Can I use CCR on the repaired portion only - I assume yes.  Do I stop or run it into the undamaged clear a bit?

Question 2: Do I have to prep the base coat?  It's already been cleaned but do I have to 3000 wet sand it or cut it with a wool pad etc?  I am concerned about removing the base coat paint.

Thanks!
Respectfully

Frank 

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You can apply CCR over single stage paint (your repaint) but it might require multiple layers.  You need to "rough up" the base coat, at least lightly, for CCR to bond properly. 

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Ron

Thanks!  One last question.  Can I get away with magic eraser as some have indicated or do I need to go with 3000 grit wet sand or cut with wool pad.  Any particular preference.  I really really only want to do this once lol.

Respectfully

Frank 

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you need to abrade (rough up the surface), Magic Eraser will not do that - I don't think you need to wet sand or use wool pad, but a polish should be enough.

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Im sorry for being obtuse.  I thought polishing it prior to CCR would make it less likely to work.  I read i need to apply your cleaning prep product to strip it of wax, etc.  Do you mean compound it first lightly, then hit it with the prep spray and then CCR?  Its not smooth to the touch currently as the base coat was a spray application and I havent shot it with clear coat.

Thanks again

Frank 

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DIRECTIONS:

1. Clean the surface with Optimum Power Clean to remove any greases or waxes.

2. Decontaminate the surface with an Optimum Clay Towel, Mitt, or Bar.

3. Compound the paint with Optimum Hyper Compound and a wool pad to abrade the surface. Remove the compound residue. Goal is to remove oxidation.

4. Wipe surface with Optimum Paint Prep. Make sure surface is dry. Blow out all cracks to remove moisture and dust.

5. Apply only in a well ventilated area with panel and air temperatures between 60-85 F (15-30 C).

6. Wearing protective eyewear, a respirator rated for organic vapors, and nitrile gloves, saturate the edge of the supplied microfiber applicator (not quite to dripping), with Optimum Clear Coat Restorer (CCR).

7. Apply in a back and forth motion, keeping the edge of applicator saturated, and working the wet edge one panel at a time.  Apply 1-2 coats back to back leveling with the applicator.

8. Avoid touching the surface after 5 minutes. 

9. Optimum CCR is dry to the touch in 5 minutes, can be driven in 4 - 12 hours, waxed or polished in 24 hours and Coated in 48 hours.  Second coat can be added after 1 week of curing.

10. Allow 12 hours or more before exposing to water or temperatures below 60 F (15 C).

11. Optimum CCR can be protected with Optimum Car Wax, Opti-Seal, or Gloss-Coat after 48 hours or more of curing.

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Ron

I have to say I used the product yesterday and it was a super bad experience.  The CCR went on fine except over my repair where it immediately removed the paint.  I was left with a clear coated partial primer panel.  This required me to remove the CCR and refinish the panel again.  I am now going to just clear coat the entire panel.

I spent a lot of money on this, what went wrong?

Respectfully

Frank 

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pretty hard to say, since I don't know what prep you actually did.  CCR's function is to repair damaged clear coat, not to be clear coat.  There is a learning curve and it's not going to work in every case.

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Thanks, I prepped it according to instruction but it did strip the base paint off which  is nice to know...albeit after the fact and expense.

Regards

Frank 

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Just out of curiosity, the base/color coat was a 1K paint, correct?  Laquer?

To backtrack a bit, I can't really follow what prep you did on the basecoat, but generally I understand that it's kind of porous and you wouldn't have had to do any prep other than removing any dust.

Since CCR is basically a 1K clear, it probably has a lot higher solvent content than a current waterborne or even solventborne high solids 2K clear, it doesn't surprise me at all that it would remove basecoat, especially since you are "rubbing" vs. "spraying".

I haven't been following CCR too much, but it does seem like a product with a very narrow range of applications, since it's not for failed clear, and not for good clear, only for "damaged clear".

As always, use proper respiratory protection when using products like 2K clear or CCR, the effects of polyisocyanates can be cumulative.

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