dublifecrisis Posted June 12, 2008 Author Share Posted June 12, 2008 I thought of that. the spray bottle I have now I think was 6oz OID to 18oz distilled water for a 24oz spray. I'll add 2oz water to the bottle and test it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dublifecrisis Posted June 18, 2008 Author Share Posted June 18, 2008 ok, just to leave my OID review on a positive note: I've concluded that the streaking I experienced was a result of polish oils left on the hood of my car. About a month ago I was bored and I polished ONLY my hood (Menzerna). I did add a coat of Opti-seal and OCW but since this OID is only streaking on the hood I figure it must be because of that. I usually don't do a prep-sol or IPA wipedown before LSP/sealant but maybe I should. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thesacrifice Posted June 23, 2008 Share Posted June 23, 2008 Ive loved ONR diluted to QD reasons and am wondering if this stuff has a place in my arsenal. Someone mentioned using it during the drying process of an ONR wash. Isn't using OCW at this point a better alternative? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dublifecrisis Posted June 23, 2008 Author Share Posted June 23, 2008 You can use OCW during drying but IMO there is def a place in ANY detailing arsenal for a charged up quick Detailer such as OID. You'll know as soon as you spray and start to wipe that this is worlds away from an everyday QD spray. The 32 oz makes at LEAST a gallon. So for the price it's just a lot cheaper than OCW. Now I use OID when drying or just a simple wipedown at night or in the morning. Then OCW every other week or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
talex26 Posted July 27, 2008 Share Posted July 27, 2008 I'm thinking about switching from Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Detailer, which I like a lot, to OID. I'll be putting it on top of NXT 2.0. and of course the existing Meg's Ultimate that I have already applied. So my question is has anyone else used OID over NXT 2.0 and if so did it work out OK? Was the OID about the same or better than Meg's Ultimate in gloss and shine? Also in the future if I want to try OOS would it be OK to just put it on top of the NXT/Ultimate combo? Would that enhance the shine especially when toped with OID? Or would it be better to strip the NXT off and just lay down the OOS? Thanks for your thoughts on this. I am new to detailing my own car and am pretty happy with the Meg's products mentioned but the ease of use of Optimum Products discussed on this wonderful forum and the great results people are getting has me wanting to see if I can make my car look even better with less effort and possible a longer lasting finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dervdave Posted July 27, 2008 Share Posted July 27, 2008 OID ? Can`t get it in the UK yet ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
talex26 Posted July 27, 2008 Share Posted July 27, 2008 Meg's UQD is my clay lube till its empty after trying OID. There is NO comparison. As for the NXT 2.0, I gave it away because it only lasted till I washed my car. I get better results from OCW and it takes less time to apply. Don't get me wrong, I still use Meg's stuff just not UQD or NXY line. As far as the OS, it will play nice but you will stop using the NXT after you try OPT Thanks for the info ID, I'll be ordering the OID as soon as my Meg's Ultimate bottle is gone. Or maybe I'll just give it to my neighbor whose Mustang is in bad need of some TLC - lol. For the future what would you recommend to use on my silver metallic '08 Accord Coupe. The paint is in good shape with no noticeable scratches or swirls before I prepped and waxed it with Meg's. I suppose I would strip the NXT Techwax and then in this order (?) put on a couple of layers of OOS; and then some OCW; followed by and then maintained with OID. How does that sound? Also I don't know if this will make a difference but I used some Deep Crystal Polish (pretty oily I believe) before I waxed with NXT. So when I clay the wax off and then clean again with DP Cleaner (if necessary?) will the DP Polish interfere with the OOS? Thanks for your help. I'm a real noob at this but learning everyday thanks to guys like you and forums like this. I welcome other opinions also as techniques used by those who work on different cars and use different methods and OPT Products or have a different order of putting products on the cars is always useful to know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
talex26 Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 Well I guess three coats of OOS it is! The Altima looks pretty good ID. One last question - Would it be better to put the OCW first, followed by the OOS, instead of vis versa like I originally said? I am reading that a lot of guys using various carnauba waxes & polymer sealant products are putting the carnauba first and then the polymer sealant as the LSP. Is there an advantage to that? Seems to me, and I am just guessing, that with the OOS on top the OID would better compliment the OOS as they are both polymer based and it would eliminate the need for also using OCW between every 2-3+ month waxings - leaving OCW as the base part of the complete rewax process every few months. What do you think - OCW first, then OOS - or the other way around? Thanks again for all your help. I know your goodwill comes back to you many fold. BTW - I have some pics of my car before Meguiaring it and some after. In a couple of months when I do the OCW/OOS + OID thing I will post pictures of all three stages for the members here to see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shiplemw Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 Okay I'm a noob and I tried to look up in the product abbreviations and didn't see it. OS = ? OCW = ? -> optimum car wax? OIS = ? OCD = ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
talex26 Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 Okay I'm a noob and I tried to look up in the product abbreviations and didn't see it. OS = ? OCW = ? -> optimum car wax? OIS = ? OCD = ? OS = OOS = Optimum Opti-seal OCW = optimum car wax OIS = did you mean to type OID = Optimum Instant Detailer OCD = ? ( I have no clue as to what that may be) Hope that helps a little. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
talex26 Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 I can't explain it technically, but my understanding is that the OS will reposition the wax to attach to the paint. So I guess it doesn't matter. you could try a panel each way and see if you notice a difference. I would personally do a coat of OS, let it cure for 12 hours, QD the dust (if any) OS again and cure, then OCW. If you do a OS coat sooner than that it's just like doing one thick coat and not a real layer. You could even do it over 3 washes. wash + OS one week, wash + OS 2nd week, wash +OCW 3rd week. Thanks ID. I am confused on the combo OCW/OOS thing so for now I think I will do as you did and stick with OOS and leave it at that. I posted my confusion on the subject on another thread to see if I could get more viewpoints not that I don't follow what you are suggesting or think it won't work. It's that I just don't have a lot of time for experimenting and buying products that may or may not work together. Again I'm happy with the Meg's I laid down but am looking for something better and EASIER/FASTER. With OOS there is no taping off or white residue to deal with so even if I got the same results with Optimum as with Meg's I would be ahead. A better shine would be a plus. Until I can be sure I can lay down OCW first topped by OOS without any negative consequences or shortened lifespan of the finish I will stick with OOS and OID and see if I'm happy with that. Thanks again for all your help a it has made a big difference in my understanding of the products discussed and how to apply them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
talex26 Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 The two will play nice for sure. You just need to wait on the cure time. The OS is a paint sealant that needs to cure while the polymers crosslink. It will give you depth and clarity. The reason to add OCW to the mix is if you'd like a little more wetness and gloss like carnuba gives. Either one is a great stand alone product, but many of us on the forums have OCD=Obsessive-Compulsive Disorder and cannot leave well enuff alone,hehe. FYI wax products usually only last about 2 months and sealant can go about 4-6 so after you get a couple coats of OS on there, you can hit it with the OCW about once amonth to keep it really wet looking, or even OID after every wash as you dry and just leave off the wax if you don't want a bunch of products. My favorite OPT combo is one you havent' mentioned: Poliseal topped with OCW. Poliseal is OPT's AIO and goes on like butter with very little residue that can be buffed off while waxing, thus saving a step. Good luck and shoot some befores and afters for us! OK I'm convinced - lol. I ran into and read a couple of your older posts over at autotopia on the same subject and they helped fill in some blanks for me. I'll be doing OOS topped with OCW, hitting it with OCW once a month as you suggest and weekly with OID. As for the polyseal, I'm doing things by hand and with the ease of application with OOS & OCW don't see the need to invest in a PC just for the OPS. Maybe if I can rent one cheap somewhere for the day I may give polyseal a whirl but for now I think I'll be OK. Thanks for the suggestion though. One last thing ID. When I did my car with Meg's I used DC Polish which is pretty oily. I imagine when I get around to claying off the NXT in preparation for the OOS there will still be some DC Polish in the paint pores. That will not impeded the looks or bonding of the OOS will it? If not I may even apply some more just to keep the paint conditioned. What do you think? As always thanks a million. Now that I have this Optimum thing figured out with your help I can go fishing tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwaug Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 As for the polyseal, I'm doing things by hand and with the ease of application with OOS & OCW don't see the need to invest in a PC just for the OPS. Maybe if I can rent one cheap somewhere for the day I may give polyseal a whirl but for now I think I'll be OK. Thanks for the suggestion though. I'm in a similar situation to you in that I do everything by hand and don't see a need to invest in a PC as my car has been well cared for since new (2007 Passat-Light Granite/Greeen Metallic). I find that in the Spring when I do a major detail the paint does need some cleaning/light polishing even after being clayed. Currently I am using another AIO product and even by hand it makes a difference, then I add 2 coats of OS and then top it with OCW. Looks fantastic!! Once my other AIO is used up I plan to switch to PoliSeal. Dr G has stated that even by hand the PoliSeal offers mild cleaning and polishing. You need to put a little passion into the application of an AIO by hand, but it is worth it IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
talex26 Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 I'm in a similar situation to you in that I do everything by hand and don't see a need to invest in a PC as my car has been well cared for since new (2007 Passat-Light Granite/Greeen Metallic). I find that in the Spring when I do a major detail the paint does need some cleaning/light polishing even after being clayed. Currently I am using another AIO product and even by hand it makes a difference, then I add 2 coats of OS and then top it with OCW. Looks fantastic!! Once my other AIO is used up I plan to switch to PoliSeal. Dr G has stated that even by hand the PoliSeal offers mild cleaning and polishing. You need to put a little passion into the application of an AIO by hand, but it is worth it IMO. Thanks for the tips. I just polished by hand with Meguiar's and it was a major job putting passion into it by hand. I don't know anything about polishing with a DA and don't want to spend the money on one but I think I will try to learn the pros and cons of an random orbital buffer like this one: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores...25X-_-100044715 They are cheap $32 or more or even less depending what you end up buying. But they seem suited for just applying product in a fast way as long as you are careful. Does anyone reading this know anything about orbitals? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dublifecrisis Posted July 29, 2008 Author Share Posted July 29, 2008 I've had one of those cheap buffers and they don't seem to work very well at all. I'd rather do by hand and while it might more work, it will be more effective than the OTC buffer. Just go by a PC and get it over with. It's worth it even for a weekend warrior. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.