Opti-Coat 2.0 Observations

[gmck]

I recently tested Opti-Coat on some panels, a bonnet and a boot lid of a couple of different cars and would have to say that I was not all that impressed with result.

 

The Opti-Coat surface looks extremely good. However when you touch it (after waiting for overnight curing) the surface it is not smooth or slick to touch. It is a little difficult to describe the feel of finish, but the surface is not ultra smooth and slick as say it would normally be if finished with Opti-Seal and OCW. A good quality MF tends to grab on the surface rather than effortlessly glide across the surface.

 

I like to ask if you would consider this normal for an Opti-Coat application. I presume because the Opti-Coat product instructions say that nothing will bond to it (including a second coat of Opti-Coat) that there is no point topping it with say Opti-Seal and OCW. As a test I have just applied Opti-Seal, which did result in the slickness and smoothness I wanted, but I presume it will just wash off the next time I wash the vehicle.

 

Both vehicles’ paint surfaces were already in perfect condition, but prior to the application, I lightly polished with Hyper Polish at 1200 rpm on a black pad and finished with Poli-Seal on a blue pad. This was followed by with a Methylated Spirits/IPA wipe down and then a Dawn type detergent wash to remove all trace of sealant/wax, before the application of Opti-Coat.

[gmck]

Yes that is normal. It is a coating and tends to feel "squeaky clean" like bare paint and not "slick" like silicones and waxes that just sit on the paint. It will get slicker over time, and you can certainly use Optimum Instant Detailer or Optimum Car Wax if you like to touch your paint, but protection and contamination repellancy are it's unsurpassed merits...not slick feel.

 

Hi Chris,

 

Thanks for your reply.

 

It will get slicker over time

 

Could you or Dr. G please explain how Opti-Coat will get slicker over time. Also how much time before this slickness would be apparent.

 

Opti-Coat cures, it will repel most everything even the fresh resin. If you have to recoat a section, you will have to polish the entire panel first with Optimum Polish or Optimum Finish. Then, you will need to wipe the panel down with a damp microfiber towel to remove any residue before reapplying Opti-Coat 2.0 to the entire panel.

 

The above quote is from Dr. G. Should I read the above as after polishing then there is no need for the IPA wipe down and Dawn wash before the application of Opti-Seal. That seems to me to be in direct contrast to your own recommendation of washing down with Opti-Clean.

[gmck]

Opti Coat will get slicker as it self levels and cures.

 

Ok, could you then tell me how long after application that Opti-Coat would be considered cured and level, as I have not noticed any difference either in slickness, smoothness or leveling since the initial 12 hours.

 

I mean, Opti Coat will certainly be smooth with no bumps, but probably never "slippery" like wax...because that is a attribute of "wax" not paint/coatings.

 

I would have thought the answer to your query would have been obvious. Enthusiasts/detailers have become conditioned to the feel of paint after applying sealants/waxes such as Poli-Seal/Opti-Seal/OCW. The slickness is something they and more importantly their clients probably now expect. Sealant manufacturers, including Optimum have heavily promoted slickness and smoothness as a desirable property.

 

I've painted many vehicles, so I’m aware of the feel of fresh paint. However it is only on rare occasions that a vehicle is returned to the client without having been polished and sealed. A vehicle in a new car show room is always highly polished and the paint always has a slick/smooth feel. More than likely, the vehicles in a show room are QD’d on a daily, if not more basis to keep them that way. Most QD’s add slickness would you not agree?

 

Would it therefore be unfair to conclude that a vehicle coated with Opti-Coat will never have that new vehicle showroom vehicle feel to it? I make that assumption on the basis that whatever sealant/wax is applied after Opti-Coat is a waste of product and time for it is only going to stay around until the next wash.

 

Apologies for the typo and the mix up with Power Clean. Opti this, Poli that, with the Optimum naming conventions, it seems to be a common problem.

 

That is good to know about Optimum polishes because I would prefer to avoid the IPA wipe downs where ever possible.

[gmck]

Hi Chris,

 

Thanks for your candid comments, they are much appreciated.

 

12 hours is sufficient cure time for water exposure, but Opti Coat will continue to dehydrate and harden over a few days as it is exposed to heat.

 

Well I guess I'm way past that point now and I have to say I haven't noticed any difference, so I doubt I will now.

 

You are probably right that Opti-Coat may not suit my personal requirements, but I was actually more interested in your answers from a client point of view.

 

I'm sure, I’ll have clients that do appreciate the permanence of the Opti-Coat protection, but I’m not so sure they will appreciate the lack of the other properties as previously discussed. It may end up “Horses for Courses” and just let the client decide.

 

To help them decide, I think I will knock up some test panels and paint them in contrasting colours (say typical Silver and a BMW Jet Black) and then finish them with

1. Opti-Coat – no further additions

2. Poli-Seal/Opti-Seal/OCW

 

And then let the client decide the finish they would like. If I mount the panels outside the shop, exposed to the weather and wash them once a week, it should be a reasonably fair test. Of course to be even fairer, I should probably do the same with the C.Quartz product, both topped and untopped, considering that they claim that it can be successfully topped.

 

Many thanks for your help.

[Doctor G]

Ok, could you then tell me how long after application that Opti-Coat would be considered cured and level, as I have not noticed any difference either in slickness, smoothness or leveling since the initial 12 hours.

 

 

 

I would have thought the answer to your query would have been obvious. Enthusiasts/detailers have become conditioned to the feel of paint after applying sealants/waxes such as Poli-Seal/Opti-Seal/OCW. The slickness is something they and more importantly their clients probably now expect. Sealant manufacturers, including Optimum have heavily promoted slickness and smoothness as a desirable property.

 

I've painted many vehicles, so I'm aware of the feel of fresh paint. However it is only on rare occasions that a vehicle is returned to the client without having been polished and sealed. A vehicle in a new car show room is always highly polished and the paint always has a slick/smooth feel. More than likely, the vehicles in a show room are QD'd on a daily, if not more basis to keep them that way. Most QD's add slickness would you not agree?

 

Would it therefore be unfair to conclude that a vehicle coated with Opti-Coat will never have that new vehicle showroom vehicle feel to it? I make that assumption on the basis that whatever sealant/wax is applied after Opti-Coat is a waste of product and time for it is only going to stay around until the next wash.

 

Apologies for the typo and the mix up with Power Clean. Opti this, Poli that, with the Optimum naming conventions, it seems to be a common problem.

 

That is good to know about Optimum polishes because I would prefer to avoid the IPA wipe downs where ever possible.

 

Thank you for bringing up these great questions. As Chris already mentioned the slickness of Opti-Coat will increase over several days as it cures reach its maximum after one week as it continues to level and cure. The smoothness of the application will also play a big role in how slick or grabby the coating feels. I should also mention that the slickness of Opti-Coat 2.0 will be much greater since it cures more slowly and has more time to level.

 

As with any product, there is a learning curve and you will get better results as you do more applications. By using Poli-Seal, you can smooth out any ridges and unevenness to further improve the finish. Poli-Seal and / or Opti-Seal will last longer over the coating than most other products. As Chris also suggested, Instant Detailer works well with the coating also.

 

Please let us know if we can be of further assistance. Thanks again.

 

David,

[gmck]

Thanks for your reply Dr. G.

 

As Chris already mentioned the slickness of Opti-Coat will increase over several days as it cures reach its maximum after one week as it continues to level and cure.

 

As stated earlier I have noticed no change. Could you please explain how a resin continues to self level after it is already dry to touch?

 

The smoothness of the application will also play a big role in how slick or grabby the coating feels

 

Should I presume from the above that you mean - how it is applied to the paint. If so can you explain what techniques are required to make the end result smoother and not grabby. If I’ve misinterpreted your sentence, could you please explain further.

 

I should also mention that the slickness of Opti-Coat 2.0 will be much greater since it cures more slowly and has more time to level.

 

Could you expand on the above? You state “much greater”. What are you comparing it to? Much greater than what!!!

 

By using Poli-Seal, you can smooth out any ridges and unevenness to further improve the finish.

 

I find this comment interesting. So are you saying that if a high spot is missed during application and the Opti-Coat is allowed to cure, that the high spot can be corrected and removed with Poli-Seal, thus eliminating the need to start over again.

 

PS. Could someone explain why the Preview Post button is always disabled on this forum? Is there a setting that can be used to enable it.

[gmck]

Thanks again for your answers – sorry to take up so much of your time.

 

Opti Coat is certainly not for everyone and while some of your customers may have a need for it, I think for you personally it seems like you are trying to force a square peg into a round hole.

 

No not at all, only round pegs here. I’m just exploring all the possibilities. I certainly can’t advise clients, if I don’t know advantages/disadvantages of both. The more you use the products, the more you learn. I don’t see it as wasted time and besides there is no particular rush or need to make a single choice.

[Doctor G]

Thanks for your reply Dr. G.

 

Sorry for the late reply. As Chris has pointed out, I was traveling and could not reply sooner. Chris has already addressed most of your questions and I will try to respond to the rest today. Please let us know if we can be of further assistance.

 

As stated earlier I have noticed no change. Could you please explain how a resin continues to self level after it is already dry to touch?

 

The solvents flash off for the most part within the first minute (could take 5 seconds to 30 seconds depending on the temps). As the resin starts to cure (within 10 minutes for V1 and 60 minutes for V2), it becomes dry on the surface hence the term "dry to the touch". The curing is fastest on the surface and slower below the surface since moisture has to travel within the polymer to reach the active sites. Over a period of a few days, the residual solvents will completely evaporate and the polymer also becomes fully cured.

 

 

Should I presume from the above that you mean - how it is applied to the paint. If so can you explain what techniques are required to make the end result smoother and not grabby. If I've misinterpreted your sentence, could you please explain further.

 

 

As Chris has pointed out many times on the forums, the best results are achieved by minimizing touching the surface once the coating is applied. So once you find a method of application that works best for you, apply the product and then let it cure without touching it during the curing process. As the resins are polymerizing, touching it can cause imprints which can affect the smoothness and the feel. As Chris has emphasized many times, the less touches, the better.

 

 

Could you expand on the above? You state "much greater". What are you comparing it to? Much greater than what!!!

 

V2 is more forgiving than V1 and has a longer time to level before curing. If V1 is applied very efficiently, you can get very similar results, otherwise, V2 will produce much better results.

 

I find this comment interesting. So are you saying that if a high spot is missed during application and the Opti-Coat is allowed to cure, that the high spot can be corrected and removed with Poli-Seal, thus eliminating the need to start over again.

 

Yes, you can use a light cut pad with Poli-Seal to level the high spots and there is no need to redo the application.

 

PS. Could someone explain why the Preview Post button is always disabled on this forum? Is there a setting that can be used to enable it.

 

I just saw the video Chris has posted and as you can see, there is no problem spreading the coating to get an even finish. Once this is done, it is best to leave it till it is fully cured. Others have found that it works better for them to use a microfiber foam or towel and some use blue shop towels to apply Opti-Coat. As you noted, some pros also use a microfiber towel to buff off the excess afterward as Joe did during the class at Detailfest. Everyone will come up with their own method of application since there is no right or wrong way as long as you get the results you like. What we suggest are recommendations/starting points that work but you need to experiment and find the best way that works for you.

 

I hope this helps explain the variation between different application methods. Please let us know if we can be of further assistance. Thanks again.

[gmck]

Thanks again for your last reply.

 

I've been a little slow to reply because I’ve been experimenting further on another vehicle.

 

I think that you are correct in that it does take a couple of applications to work out your own method.

I was very pleased to read your statement that Poli-Seal was quite capable of knocking down a high spot as that actually contradicted Chris’s earlier statement.

 

Either in this thread or my other Opti-Coat thread I mentioned that I had redone the Opti-Coat application to a BMW boot lid (first removed and then reapplied) and I was happy with the result. However, a couple of days later when I was about to prepare another vehicle (2007 Honda Accord) for a another trial application of Opti-Coat I was having a problem during the preparation with Poli-Seal on a white pad, so I went back to the BMW and was about to do a light polish on the boot lid just as a comparison to note any differences in the behavior of Poli-Seal when I noticed what looked like a high spot or a stain in the BMW’s boot lid. The stain was similar to the photos Chris published on AG, accept the rainbow affect wasn’t as apparent. The stain was not there prior to the application of the Opti-Coat. After a very light polish with Poli-Seal, the so called stain just simply disappeared. The ability to remove a high spot, if this was a high spot, certainly increased my confidence in using Opti-Coat.

 

After overcoming the problem with Poli-Seal, I successfully completed the application of Opti-Coat to the Honda. As the problem I experienced with Poli-Seal has nothing to do with an Opti-Coat application I’ll leave the Poli-Seal problem to a new thread as I believe it is actually a problem related to the softer paint of the Honda.

 

What may prove useful here to other readers is to consider how my method of application has developed. As we know you can’t layer Opti-Coat. And as anyone who has applied it knows, Opti-Coat has to be applied as a very thin coat, similar to how one applies Opti-Seal. Too thick an application will obviously tend to lead to high spots. However most of us probably would like to apply it more thickly, thinking that we are adding extra protection as compared to a thin coat.

 

Some of the videos show a microfiber being used to help even out the coating to avoid high spots, however I can’t help but think that using a MF must remove some of the coating no matter how lightly you apply the MF. I prefer to use the supplied applicator which is already coated with Opti-Coat to eliminate the high spots using the logic that you are still applying Opti-Coat when evening out the surface with the wet/damp applicator.

 

The extra thickness can be achieved by applying two coats of Opti-Coat at the same time one after another. Firstly divide a particular panel into imaginary smaller sections. Start by using the blue tip so as to apply very small drops of Opti-Coat to applicator by forming an X across the applicator. It is not necessary for the X to completely cover the applicator; about 75% will be sufficient. Apply the applicator to the centre of the section, not to an edge. Work the film from the centre across the section until the section is completely evenly covered in much the same manner as you would apply any other modern sealant such as Opti-Seal or BFWD. Then immediately add further drops in the X pattern to the applicator and re apply to the same section. You now have a double thickness coating of Opti-Coat which is evenly applied to the surface. To further even out the surface to avoid high spots very lightly drag the wet applicator in straight lines over the surface further smoothing the surface. Now move on to the next section and repeat the same procedure. To ensure that there are no demarcation lines between the sections, use the applicator very lightly to extend or join from one section to another. The aim is to finish the two coats around the time that the Opti-Coat starts to flash. However even after it flashes I believe it is still fine to keep working it for a little longer as long as you do not apply more product and use a very light touch with the applicator.

 

I also would suggest as you move on to the next section that you keep an eye on the previous section to make sure that it flashing evenly and if necessary go back and lightly smooth with the applicator.

 

Obviously this method is something that I’ve developed through my own experimentation, so Dr. G if you see any problems with it could you please advise.

[gmck]

Chris,

 

Sorry to disagree but on the BMW it was a stain, definitely not any sort of haze. As I said, not quite the same as in your photos, but similar and very noticeable. Possibly the difference is simply just related to the effect on different paint colours. Poli-Seal certainly removed whatever it was. I’m sure it wasn’t there when it first cured. I only noticed it a couple of days later when I washing again, but I had previously checked the panel multiple times over a number of days before I washed.

 

If it happens again on another application, I will take photo. I guess I had better now go do the roof and see if I can reproduce it.

 

High spots won't come off with Poliseal. David was suggesting you use PS to improve the feel, which was your initial complaint.

 

Yes that is what you said last time and yes my initial compliant was about feel, but please read below exactly what David said.

 

I find this comment interesting. So are you saying that if a high spot is missed during application and the Opti-Coat is allowed to cure, that the high spot can be corrected and removed with Poli-Seal, thus eliminating the need to start over again.

 

Yes, you can use a light cut pad with Poli-Seal to level the high spots and there is no need to redo the application.

 

I believe the above contradicts your statement, but maybe it would be best if you checked with David as you both seem to be at odds on this point.

[gmck]

Chris,

 

About how long after you applied the coating did you use the PS...was it fully cured?

 

From memory it was about 4 or 5 days but could have been even longer.

 

You are not going to believe this, but my brother returned with the Honda this morning. As he drove in, I thought I noticed a spot on the front of his roof. After checking it with him it sure looks like another stain, exactly where I started with the OC application. The stain was certainly not there last Saturday because I asked him to come back on Saturday so that we could give it a coat of OCW. I’d also told him about the stain on the BMW, so we were checking his paint from every conceivable angle before he applied the OCW. I had finished the OC application on the Honda the previous Tuesday, so 4-5 days cure time with it.

 

Anyway Poli-Seal removed this one too. This might be a long shot, but I’m now starting to wonder if OCW is being applied too early in the curing cycle. Sorry but I forgot to get a photo before I removed it. It looked just the same as the stain on the BMW though – silver paint this time as compared to dark navy blue on the BMW.

 

What do you think of the OCW theory – a bit farfetched!!! I first noticed the stain on the BMW after I’d applied OCW as well. The weather has been quite mild the last week, temps up to 24C, so you’d reckon the Honda would be fully cured.

 

One other point, natural light is the way to go when applying this stuff. Under a halogen, or any other type of lighting this stain was just not visible. Once you spot it, well it’s obvious, but you sure have to get the light at the right angle to pick them up.

[Alfisti]

I've only used it twice and find it pretty easy to use. Does that mean I'm doing it incorrectly?

 

My method:

 

I apply it a panel at a time with the supplied applicator. For me it seems to flash-off within seconds. Am i applying it too thinly?

 

Then, I run a soft napless MF towel over the panel with no pressure just to pickup the high spots. Sometimes it grabs and I gently wipe over that section until smooth.

 

I find I only use about 5ml per car. Should I be worried?

 

 

[Alfisti]

Thanks Chris!

 

On a different note, I'm not getting email notifications on you replies. Are my settings wrong?

 

 

[Alfisti]

Sorry Chris, I'm still getting no alerts. Don't know what else to do.

[Alfisti]

Thanks.