How long it takes from cure to start beading ?


g88

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Previously, i tried applying OC to a car without removing the surface protection hence the beading become worst after OC 2.0 application compare when it was protected with wax/sealant) - COULD IT BE ?

 

Today i tried again on 2nd car. After polished, i re-wash the car with dish detergent to ensure 'almost' zero protection (since i don't have IPA with me) to the surface before applying OC the result seem simliar to 1st car ?

 

* Image from internet *

DSC00179.JPG

 

Can someone tell me what could be wrong ?

 

Upon application, if i hose the surface straight away, will it start beading madly or HOW long should i wait before it can 'start' beading ?

 

I hope my question doesn't confuse anyone ;)

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That's definitely not OC 2.0 beading. What kind of polish are you using? If it's OPT products then you can simply wipe down with a damp microfiber and go straight to OC. I'm wondering if there could be some residue from the dish detergent causing an issue as well.

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That's definitely not OC 2.0 beading. What kind of polish are you using? If it's OPT products then you can simply wipe down with a damp microfiber and go straight to OC. I'm wondering if there could be some residue from the dish detergent causing an issue as well.

 

I was using Menzerna Polish PO85RD and Meguiars M205, follow by dish detergent to rewash the car before apply OC.

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I was using Menzerna Polish PO85RD and Meguiars M205, follow by dish detergent to rewash the car before apply OC.

Those both are pretty loaded with oils. Not that that's a bad thing but like Chris said, it could take a stronger wash. Do you happen to have any Optimum Power Clean. Even at 3:1 I've found that it removes almost any residue. Just make sure you flush/wash it off of the paint.

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Those both are pretty loaded with oils. Not that that's a bad thing but like Chris said, it could take a stronger wash. Do you happen to have any Optimum Power Clean. Even at 3:1 I've found that it removes almost any residue. Just make sure you flush/wash it off of the paint.

 

 

Sometimes it takes more than a single dish soap wash to remove polishing oils and residue. If the surface is not bare, the coating will only be bonded to the contaminant and wear off very quickly, whereas the bond formed with bare paint is permanent. You could try a stronger wash dilution, multiple washes, or use a wax/tar remover available at most auto parts stores.

 

The beading is apparent immediately. You can wet (water only) after a hour and the tight beads would be evident at that moment.

 

So guys looking at current 'situation' :( what is the fix for it ? Do i wipe off the surface with wet tissue or redo a light polishing (don't prefer to compound) and rewash the surface with degreaser following by rinse the surface, make sure zero beading then ONLY apply OC ?

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At this point I think you would be best off going the light polish route. Since the OC didn't really bond you want to make sure everything is clean then go with your degreaser of choice for the wash and rinse. I personally don't use IPA but it's rather easy to find. You should be able to feel the difference after your wash. The paint surface will feel clean but not slick like just after wiping off compound/polish.

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At this point I think you would be best off going the light polish route. Since the OC didn't really bond you want to make sure everything is clean then go with your degreaser of choice for the wash and rinse. I personally don't use IPA but it's rather easy to find. You should be able to feel the difference after your wash. The paint surface will feel clean but not slick like just after wiping off compound/polish.

 

Thanks for the advice. The 1st car that i applied (without) clean surface preparation ;)) i have applied a layer of sealant...wondering would i strip them off to the bottom with mild polisher and reapply OC...

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