Tom Guild Posted March 23, 2013 Share Posted March 23, 2013 I think that I have a minor scuff through bodyshop applied clearcoat on the hood of my white Ram pickup. The scuff is only about 1/8 inch wide and 3/4 inch long and would not be seen by most folks. I would prefer to continue using a regular wax/sealant for the general maintenance of my truck's finish. (I'm just an "old school" kind of guy.) Would it be possible to protect just the area of the scuff using either Opti-Seal or Opt-Coat 2.0 and then apply regular wax over this "repair" after the Seal or 2.0 has dried. The work done by the body shop is guaranteed but I do not want a repaint for such a minor blem. The truck is close to being a "Garage Queen". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beetlevw72 Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 Is it all the way through the clear and into the base coat? If it's through the clear OC 2.0 would probably prevent it from getting worse but it won't look like you just re-cleared it. If it's not through, you may want to just minimize it with Optimum Compound II or Polish II and then protect it. For such a small spot it kind of seems like a waste to buy a whole syringe of OC 2.0. If you do get the coating, I'd do the whole truck. You can still wax it with your favorite non-abrasive wax or sealant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Guild Posted March 24, 2013 Author Share Posted March 24, 2013 I'm pretty sure it's through the clearcoat. I waxed the whole hood with Meguiar's Ulitmate wax and now have a very difficult time finding the scuff. The truck already has a bunch a of paint on it. When the body shop was doing the repair they found that very likely the whole truck had been run through the factory's paint booth twice. Lucky me..sure. When the repair was made to the hood, the area in which the scuff is located did not receive new basecoat. It only got another layer of clear coat. (a coat and a half of high solid clearcoat.) It was sanded before the body shop applied clearcoat but I would imagine that some of the factory clear was still under it. I already use ONR maybe I should switch over to No Rinse Wash and Wax, apply a quality sealant a couple times a year and call it good enough. I do plan to show the body shop owner the problem just so I have a record of calling it to his attention. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beetlevw72 Posted March 25, 2013 Share Posted March 25, 2013 If you have a hard time seeing it and it doesn't bug you too much I'd just do what you're doing. The Ultimate Wax is quality stuff and coupled with your ONR washes should be just fine for protecting it. I do think that you're doing the right thing by letting the body shop know though. Better safe than sorry. I have two spots where my car was repaired where there is clear but not base coat. They are so thin and on a corner of a door that they can only be seen about a foot away if you're looking for them. Like you, I just let the shop know and said I wasn't worried. They offered to fix it at any time if I changed my mind. I would imagine yours will too. Let us know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Guild Posted March 28, 2013 Author Share Posted March 28, 2013 Thanks for the advice. The shop owner said no problem. I'll Just do what you suggested and if work ever needs to be done, I'll "take-r-in". The shop owner said is it likely that there is still factory clear where the shop clear was "burned" off. He also said that he hasn't had problems like this very often. The shop had to sand and polish the hood because the paint didn't dry quite right...and this is a state-of-the-art shop with highly trained techs. Lucky me. I might add that this truck came with 79 paint nibs in the factory paint. Didn't see them until the first detail. It appears that the whole truck was run though the paint booth twice. I leveled every nib. The hood had 28. Been thinking that Opti-Coat might not be a bad idea for the whole truck. Thing is...I also tend to believe that is something is too good to be true (Opti-Coat), it probably is. Been waiting for a few more testimonials. Besides that If i applied Opi-Coat , what would I do with all of my other "stuff". :-) Thanks for the suggestion. Oh, I measured the "scuff". It is only 1/8 inch wide. I think that I had better work on my perfectionism a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beetlevw72 Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 That sounds like a good plan! I can attest that even though it may seem too good to be true, OC really does work. It's been on my car since last August and it has held up amazingly. I'll go a month or so even in the winter without washing and do a rinseless wash with ONR and it looks like I just did a full detail on it. It truly is amazing and I refuse to put my faith in waxes or sealants anymore. Case in point, I had two panels repainted and haven't had the time recoat them yet. I put a sealant on them after it had cured but after a month of driving in the salt and snow I had etchings everywhere on those panels. On the OC'd panels, nope, not even the slightest mark. This stuff is the toughest and only permanent coating available to the consumer market. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Guild Posted March 30, 2013 Author Share Posted March 30, 2013 What kind of prep did the body shop have to do before repainting the panels? That used to be so much of an issue with me that I would use only carnauba waxes never any type of a sealant just to avoid repaint problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beetlevw72 Posted April 2, 2013 Share Posted April 2, 2013 They had to sand the entire panel because I had OC on it. Anytime good prep is involved they're going to rough up the surface. No need to worry about whether to use a wax, sealant, or coating. If they don't prep a surface that is OC'd they'll know right away Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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