Optimum Product Questions

[Gdogg]

Hello,

 

New to the forum and I have some questions. I've been reading and reading but can't seem to find what I need to know for what I have or really it seems like many are doing a lot of different things with different products which makes things confusing for a beginner.

 

I am also new to detailing and have been working on my boat but haven't started on my vehicles yet but plan to do that in the next day or two. I bought an Optimum Kit through Kevin's (Kleen Car) website as I wanted the buffing video and so I chose the kit with the OC, OP-II and Poil-Seal.

 

My questions are:

 

1) Do I need anything else other than this?

 

2) From reading on here it seems as if it is recommended to finish with Opti-Seal after the Poli-Seal, is this correct or is this not needed?

 

3) I only have a rotary as of now but have all the LC, pad's from top to bottom; can I use this for all the steps or what is recommended here?

 

4) I don't have Opti-Seal yet but will order it if it is recommended or am I good with finishing with the Poli-Seal as my last step or is this just a preference for adding depth. Also, should I look into waxing after the Poli-Seal with a paste wax or, anything.

 

Thanks in advance, I am trying to figure this all out and want to make sure I have everything I need to get the job done correctly.

 

Actually, if someone could lay out the process they are using with the products mentioned such as if starting the compound with a wool pad, going to an, LC foam pad for the polish what color and what color for the Poli-Seal you are using that would be great. I am sure it has more to do with what type of correction is needed and I will tell you it is a fair amount. I have a 1995 S500/black that has the typical swirls and some light scratches throughout that I am looking to eliminate and hopefully present a shine like I am seeing on this forum.

[Gdogg]

1) Do I need anything else other than this? depends on you goals, what you're working on, and what you're working with (hand, PC, Rotary)

 

Rotary for now!

 

2) From reading on here it seems as if it is recommended to finish with Opti-Seal after the Poli-Seal, is this correct or is this not needed? PS is an AIO and OS is a true LSP. OS is used after PS to increase durability and add clarity

 

Got it!

 

3) I only have a rotary as of now but have all the LC, pad's from top to bottom; can I use this for all the steps or what is recommended here? Use the OC with the cutting pads (yellow, orange, green), use the OP with the polishing pads (green, white, black), and the PS with the polishing and/or finishing pads (green, white, black, blue) keeping the RPMs low with PS is advised

 

I understand the pad selections and what they are for, I was looking for more of a pad stage that you or others might be using with this product selection but I see there is much more to it than that.

 

4) I don't have Opti-Seal yet but will order it if it is recommended or am I good with finishing with the Poli-Seal as my last step or is this just a preference for adding depth. Also, should I look into waxing after the Poli-Seal with a paste wax or, anything. I can never leave my car alone, so I put OSx3 on after PS every 3 months, I put OCW on after every couple weeks and use OID after every wash...Do I NEED to? probably not, but I like the compliments, hehe. To answer your question, you just need to apply it and see how long the beading lasts. There are so many variables that no one can give you more than a rough estimate. If you usr a strong soap, have a harsh climate, keep your car in a garage, etc. all play a factor in durability.

 

Ok, that makes since!

 

Thanks in advance, I am trying to figure this all out and want to make sure I have everything I need to get the job done correctly.

 

Actually, if someone could lay out the process they are using with the products mentioned such as if starting the compound with a wool pad, going to an, LC foam pad for the polish what color and what color for the Poli-Seal you are using that would be great. I am sure it has more to do with what type of correction is needed and I will tell you it is a fair amount. I have a 1995 S500/black that has the typical swirls and some light scratches throughout that I am looking to eliminate and hopefully present a shine like I am seeing on this forum. There's so much more to it than pad selection. If you don't know the capabilities of the products, then you won't know when you're finished with each step or even when the product is broken down. Does the car have clear coat or single stage paint? Can you give us some photos of the car that shows the condition of the paint? Also, what is you experience level with the rotary?

 

The car is clear coat and the paint is actually fantastic considering the car is 13 years old and I am quite sure it hasn't seen a rotary or a DA ever. It's a Benz, so it has good paint/clear. I will take some pictures tomorrow if the sun comes out enough to see. My experience with the rotary is basically nothing other than using it on my boat with some vibra cut. I haven't had the chance to finish yet. My idea was to keep the rotary at a maximum of 1200 rpm to keep things safe. I know it will limit the correction some what but better to safe to begin with.

[Ron Harris]

Gdogg,

Welcome.

I would recommend that you use the polish for most of your correcting. If you have a wool pad you can do some serious correcting with the polish.

I usually start with a white LC pad and the polish. Doing a 2ft X 2ft section and then inspect. If you need to bump it up then do so with the wool. If you have an orange pad you could use it as well but it will generate much more heat then the wool witch can be dangerous. If you choose to stay with the white you can finish this step of the correcting. You can now go to a less aggressive pad with the polish. Using a red, black or blue pad their all some what the same. I'm also not sure witch ones you have. After this polishing step you can switch to the poli-seal. Using a finishing pad like a blue one polish the poli-seal into the paint at an rpm of 1200. Oh just so you know I polish with the Optimum polish at 1500 rpm. You can stop here and you finish will be protected for a couple of months or you can add OS to the finish to give you a little more durability. Adding a paste wax will not give you any more longevity but can alter the look of your paint.

 

To refresh. I would only use the compound for serious correcting.

Use the polish for wool then step down to a white LC pad and the polish again. For the final finish use the polish again and a finishing pad to be sure that you don't have any swirls. Then finish with the poli-seal and a blue pad.

 

Anthony and I have done hundreds of cars with this process and should work for you as well. I hope I kept it simple enough.

Optimum system is not meant to be confusing. It is really very simple.

[Gdogg]

Ron,

 

Thanks a lot for your response and the welcome.

 

That is pretty much what I have done so far BUT i started with the compound and wool pad at about 1200 with the rotary. I then went to the polish and a white LC pad around 1200/1300. It look's 10 times better already but i still need to polish again to remove more of the swirling from the compound. I should have waited until your response but i was to impatient. Next i think i will go with the gray pad with the polish @ 1500 as you suggested and see where that takes me. Then PS it with a blue pad and I will order OS to finish up with.

 

Another question I have and the reason I did not start with an LC cutting pad is the yellow and orange pad have me confused. The yellow is supposed to be a cutting pad and the orange pad is supposed to be the "light" cutting pad yet the orange seems much more firm than the yellow pad. What's up with that?

 

I was kind of tripping after using the compound and wool pad and seeing the swirls but after the white pad and polish it is much better. I caused myself an extra step due to that as I have to polish again and then seal but I guess we live and learn.

 

Even though I am pretty much popping my cherry with this buff and don't really have a lot to go on with other products I can at least say that the Optimum products are very easy to work with and that has been a big help in this process.

 

Again, thanks for your advice and input it is much appreciated.

[CharlesW]

One thing to keep in mind;

You aren't removing the flaws, you are removing the paint around them so it is the same level and the flaws are no longer visible.

An aggressive compound and a rotary can remove a lot of paint. Possibly more than you want.

Using the least aggressive product/pad combination that does the job is a pretty good rule to follow.

 

For my personal vehicles, Poli-Seal with a polishing pad with a random orbital polisher is usually all I need to keep things looking good.

Occasionally, I might need to use a more aggressive product in an area to correct a scuff of some sort, but even then, I try to work a little longer with the milder product before moving to something with more cut. For a Pro, time is money and it may not be practical to spend the extra time. As a hobby detailer, it's not a problem for me.

 

You asked about Opti-Seal earlier. Yes, buy it. Follow the Poli-Seal with Opti-Seal and you will love it.

[Gdogg]

Charles,

 

Thanks for your reply.

 

I've got the Opti-Seal ordered as of today and also finished the last polish with the gray LC.

 

I will Poli-Seal it tomorrow and take some pictures of the results. It is looking pretty dang good. My car (1995 S500) and at least since I've owned it, it hasn't had a buffer on it until yesterday and i really don't think one has been on it ever for that matter. German cars and their paint are of high quality at least the older models such as mine so i don't think i removed much paint/clear at all.

 

I will from here on out use a much less aggressive technique like you are talking about with the Poli-Seal and orbital to maintain it but I had to take some down to remove some problems and bring back the new look again. I went from looking into a hazy paint to what can be described as looking in a mirror, so I am a happy camper.

 

Thanks again,

 

Happy Thanksgiving!!

[Ron Harris]

Ron,

 

Another question I have and the reason I did not start with an LC cutting pad is the yellow and orange pad have me confused. The yellow is supposed to be a cutting pad and the orange pad is supposed to be the "light" cutting pad yet the orange seems much more firm than the yellow pad. What's up with that?

 

I was kind of tripping after using the compound and wool pad and seeing the swirls but after the white pad and polish it is much better. I caused myself an extra step due to that as I have to polish again and then seal but I guess we live and learn.

 

 

Gdogg,

I would not recomend useing the yellow pad until you have a little time with the polisher under your belt. At our shop we don't even have any. The wool pad and the polish cut much cooler then the yellow foam. About 10 degrees. The wool is much easier to control and really is much safer then foam and dose a better job at cutting.

 

The orange pad works well with the polish. I don't recommend using the compound with it. You can do some good correcting with it and the polish. You could almost one step a white car with this pad. Now if you ever pick up a DA polisher the orange pad and the Poli-Seal will be your best friend when you only need light correcting and don't have a lot of time to polish and seal the paint.

For now I would stick with useing the polish only with the wool and the white and black foam pads.

[Anthony Orosco]

As Ron stated, there is no need to use a yellow pad when you have the ability to use a foam wool pad. The woll pad leaves swirls but they are easily knocked down with a foam polishing pad (white/green) and a mild polish.

 

Anthony