Opti-Coat 2.0 Application Experimentations


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Hi Chris,


I decided to do some more application experimentation, so first off I wanted to find out how easy it was to remove Opti-Coat. From the previous example, I wanted to remove it from the boot lid and decided to start over again. I had a high spot that I wasn’t even aware of on this boot lid, until a colleague pointed it out. Also your advice about Hyper Polish not needing an IPA wipe down swayed me, because I just don’t like IPA wipe downs. The paint on this BMW’s boot lid (which is on the skinny side anyway) mars very easily, unless you use a new MF, which was the original reason I decide on it, as a test for Opti-Coat.


Because I’ve only been using Hyper Polish for about a week, I also wanted to do some more experimentation with HP and since I was removing the Opti-Coat, it seemed the obvious choice. I played around with both rotary and DA this time using LC Hydro Tech pads, Tangerine and Crimson on both machines. I’ve got some more questions about Hyper Polish, but I’ll leave them for later, once I get past the Opti-Coat queries, but I will say this, Hyper Polish is really good - I reckon I could substitute HP for 85RD if it keeps working the way it was today. As expected, it easily removed the previous application of Opti-Coat.


The first time I applied Opti-Coat to this boot lid was a bright sunny day, so I was really surprised to find that I had missed a high spot. To-day was a really dreary dull day, so I think, I now agree with Corey (CEEDOG) in his review on AG that you really need different types of lighting to ensure that you don’t leave high spots. For those, who haven’t used Opti-Coat, discovering high spots after Opti-Coat has cured means that you have screwed up and have to start over.


Another tip that first time users may find useful, especially if you are only testing on a single panel, is to make sure that when you first apply the pad to the surface that you start in the middle of the panel not the edge of a panel, especially if that edge abuts a panel you don’t want to apply Opti-Coat to. If only applying to a panel like a boot lid or a bonnet, it is probably also a good idea to prop the panel open, so that you don’t accidently apply Opti-Coat to the adjacent panels.


For those reading that are familiar with Opti-Seal, you will find that Opti-Coat is somewhat more viscous as compared to Opti-Seal. My high spot in the original application was at the point I first placed the applicator and obviously I didn’t spread the product sufficiently enough and so created the high spot, which I then later missed because I wasn’t diligent enough when checking with the lighting I was using. Today I introduced a hand held Halogen to the mix and it even still initially missed a high spot, therefore I can’t stress enough the need to check from all angles using different lighting. I don’t want to make out that applying Opti-Coat is rocket science but you do only have a finite window to operate within.


My main question relates to applying a secondary coat. I’d read somewhere that a second coat can be applied, but you need to do it fairly quickly. I couldn’t find where I’d read it, so I assumed that it could only be done just after the first coat starts to flash. Anyway that is what I did, so now I’m just asking for confirmation that I did apply the second coat at the correct time. The result after overnight curing looked good, so I went ahead and topped it with Opti-Seal followed by OCW.


Last night I watched the Optimum video from DevFest and the first reaction I had when I saw the guy demonstrating the application of Opti-Coat was that he was applying too much product to the pad. It was reassuring when he told the class that he used way too much product. From my testing I would suggest that you start with a thin X on the pad and then you only need a couple of drops each time as you proceed to the next part of the panel. I certainly would use the blue tip to limit the flow, which is contrary to another post here.


NOTE – I’ve just read Dr. G’s answer in the other thread, where he suggests high spots can be removed with Opti-Seal, so maybe what I thought was a screw up it is not such a screw up.

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When you say you missed a high spot do you mean your applying Opti Coat and not following with a wipe with a microfibre towel everytime?


When i apply it (keep in mind i have only been using Opti Coat not Opti Coat 2.0) i usually apply, let the opti coat dissapear (time depends on conditions - usually within a minute or 2), and regardless if there is high spots or not i always give it a single wipe with a microfibre towel to be sure.


Now some might think that wiping it within a minute may be removing it if there is no high spots because it has not yet set but i can say i have tested this by applying and within a minute wiping it vigorously, and i mean lots of hard wiping with a microfibre towel and after 8 months the panel i did this too is still beading like new after being washed with trucks wash weekly and the occasional caustic degreaser sprayed over it for fun.


I find the product almost fool proof to apply and always give it a wipe down a few minutes after applying regardless if it has high spots or not.

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Thanks for your reply and suggestions


When you say you missed a high spot do you mean your applying Opti Coat and not following with a wipe with a microfibre towel everytime?


Basically yes. Because of the lack of application documentation, I thought that you were meant to knock down any high spots with just the applicator. Since Opti-Coat is a resin, it seems almost counter intuitive to wipe or even gently wipe a resin as it is self leveling during the initial curing. I’ve since watched the video from DevFest and the “ex marine guy” while a little heavy handed with the product did gently wipe it down with a MF after it flashed. In the video it is at around the 55 minute mark for those wanting to see an application of Opti-Coat.


Since is still very early days for Opti-Coat 2.0, I think Optimum should definitely consider adding a product application sheet to the packaging, in particular highlighting the need to wipe down after the product first flashes.


Last night I completed the bonnet of the same vehicle with C.Quartz and their product sheet specifically stated to wipe down after it flashes at about 5 minutes. C.Quartz also dried/cured as I had hoped Opti-Coat would have – very smooth and glossy. A microfiber just glides across it. It is certainly not as slick as a sealant, such as Opti-Seal, but the same look and feel as new paint.


I’ll be doing a couple more Opti-Coat v. C.Quartz comparison applications over our long Easter break. I had intended to do a complete vehicle one side Opti-Coat the other side C.Quartz, but due to the difference in gloss level between the two, I think I’ll just do specific panels as I’d be concerned that there would be a demarcation line between the two if done side by side.


Interesting times with two great new protection products to choose from. Both products are similar, but very different at the same time, which should result in some interesting discussions and results over the next few months. I just hope the threads on the various forums don’t develop into the ridiculous wars that usually develop and that people remain objective about the products.


By the way I liked your web site – very professional. I gather from your pricing that Opti-Coat has become a nice little earner.

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I'm a big time experimenter, and after several different methods of application from foam to mf to chris's suggestion of surbuf's. After 2 applications of opti coat v1 I would love for people to try an old style polishing cloth, the ones they had prior to mf towels, worked amazing, I'll post up some pics later but without a doubt it was the easiest way I found to apply opti coat, I've got 2 more over the next week for more experimenting but so far I'm in love with this method!

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Thanks again Chris for your comments.


we were just trying to debut it at detailfest, hence the rush.


Ok, I can understand that. However as I said watch the DetailFest video (I wrongly referred to it as DevFest in a previous post) and a so called Opti-Coat expert (as confirmed to the class by Dr. G.) used a MF in exactly the same way as suggested here by Superior Shine. Dr. G even said that he was just the chemist who designed the product and that he was not an expert in applying it, but I would have thought he would or should have corrected the guy applying the Opti-Coat, if he thought he was doing it the wrong way.


I agree it is frustrating, but each user if they stick at it long enough will eventually develop their preferred technique.


You are right the two products are totally different and do use different technologies, but it is inevitable that they will be compared to each other especially in these types of forum environments. You’d better get used to it, as it will probably end up like the so many other useless discussions as to what is the best wax or sealant.


I suppose the main point about these products is that they offer a very significant increase in protection as compared to today’s existing sealants and waxes. Whether it be 2 years or indefinitely, we will just have to wait and see. Even 2 years is one hell of an increase on the couple of months that we get now.


so if your customers want an extended life sealant, use Carpro...but if they want a coating, use Optimum.


I’ve got a feeling that it is just not going to be as simple as that. Seems to me Chris, that you will have your work cut out for you in the not so short term. I’m glad it is you and not me mate.

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Superior Shine IS also the business name of the application expert in the Detailfest video, I believe..so maybe they just like to wipe stuff with microfibers, LMAO.


So that must be the American division of Superior Shine Australia… or should that be the other way around.


Consider this too, he was working on a hood in Florida that had just been heated by polishing.


Oh yeh, that hood was real hot after all those newbies polished it with a red pad for a second or two. Come on Chris it may have been the weather, but it sure wasn’t hot from all that polishing. I think they thought the class couldn’t damage that vehicle with a rotary and red pad – must have all out of gold pads…


Anyway I’ve got no problems with premature flashing where I am, the temp is only about 20 degrees - Celsius that is. I did like that new Flex though, that’s nearly as nice as my Shinex.


Think of the directions as general and as you play with it, feel free to tweak you own technique.


Yes, that is what I aiming to do.


If you still have the rainbow effect, you can play but when it goes clear , leave it be.


Now, that sounds like good advice.


the photo of it deflecting a bullet on the AG sales page.


Deflects bullets too. I didn’t know that – I better order a gallon.


I'm up for it...I like what I do! thanks for the props.


I’ll ask you again in a couple of months!! Just so you don't go insane over the next couple of months, why not make a couple of videos demonstrating all the different techniques of applying Opti-Coat. However unlike Corey did, apply it to some perfect paint.

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To help with the high spot removal, I just finished re-touching a BMW. I tried:


1. Poli-Seal + Meguiars Polish Pad + Rotary = No dice

2. Wolfgang Finishing Glaze + Meguairs Polish Pad + Rotary = No dice


3. M205 + Meguiars Polish Pad + Rotary = Some success, but needed 3-4 rounds


4. M105 + Meguiars Polish Pad + Rotary = Success


In a few areas I had to bump up to a Meguiars Cut Pad + M105 to get it to even out completly.


Natural light is the best way to find the high spots.

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So that must be the American division of Superior Shine Australia… or should that be the other way around.


Superior Shine in America has no connections with us.


I find giving the panel one quick light wipe with a Microfibre after it flashes a lot more effective at removing high spots (as it really only takes a really light wipe) then looking at a panel at different angles in the light looking for high spots to swipe with the applicator, if you miss one then you have to start all over again machine polishing that area. I have found wiping with the microfibre has not affected its durability in any way.


Either way it comes down to personal preference but i know id rather give it a single wipe with a microfibre to remove high spots cause id hate to find one later that i missed. Especially after having done 40+ cars. ;)

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