Guards Red Porsche


Anthony Orosco

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We have had nothing but rain and cold weather the last 2 weeks so I have done alot of cars at Porsche. One gentleman came in for some repairs and wanted me to see what I could do with is paint.

 

Ron tackled the abundant door dings.

 

 

Since we had no sun and it was raining I have only indoor shots.

 

Here is what the paint looked like before I got started.

 

 

grdsredBfore.jpg

 

 

The whole exterior was covered in those halo scratches, tons of paint chips also. The roof was especially bad as it had very deep random scratches.

 

 

My process was to:

 

No Rinse

Clay

Wet sand

 

My purpose to wetsand was to level the paint evenly. I would rather deal with sanding marks that are uniform than with a slew of random scratches.

 

First pass was with a rotary, Optimum black wool pad and Optimum Compound (not Hyper) at 1500 rpm's. A few places on the paint I kicked up the rpm's to 1800.

 

Second step was also with a rotary, 1400 rpm's and an Optimum green pad and Optimum Polish. The first step removed the sanding marks and this step removed the swirl marks left by the wool pad and compound. Again the swirls, although many, were unifrom and easy to remove if done in progression.

 

Third step, rotary and an LC white polishing pad and Optimum Polish, 1200 rpm's. I love the way the LC pad and Optimum polish work Porsche paint, great combo.

 

Fourth and final rotatry step was an Optimum finishing white pad and PoliSeal, 1000 rpm's.

 

Here is the hood after all that polishing.

 

 

 

grdsredAftr.jpg

 

 

 

grdsredpoliseal.jpg

 

 

 

grdsredPS.jpg

 

 

 

grdsredLid.jpg

 

 

 

 

The owner of the car was blown away and although he drove it away in pouring rain he was still grinning from ear to ear.

 

Anthony

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Anthony-what's your secret for getting the small areas on the rear deck lid--especially in and around the Carrera script?

 

Hey nice to see you here :)

 

I do one of two things for this area.

 

I first tape off and polish all around it. I then remove the tape and, by hand and with q-tips I polish all around the emblem and also inside. I may also use my steamer in conjunction with some small headed soft brushes. I like to use PoliSeal for this area as it cleans, polishes, seals and it doesn't leave any caked residue behind.

 

The other option is to completly remove the emblem, clean up the adhesive, thoroughly polish that area and then when finished replace the emblem with a new one. This is by far the best solution as it gives a refurbished paint a true complete look. Nothing bugs me more than having highly polished surface but your eyes are drawn to the marred up paint within the Carrera lettering

:)

 

Of course one can always go with a debadged Porsche abd avoid the problem all together !

 

Anthony

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Hey nice to see you here :)

 

I do one of two things for this area.

 

I first tape off and polish all around it. I then remove the tape and, by hand and with q-tips I polish all around the emblem and also inside. I may also use my steamer in conjunction with some small headed soft brushes. I like to use PoliSeal for this area as it cleans, polishes, seals and it doesn't leave any caked residue behind.

 

The other option is to completly remove the emblem, clean up the adhesive, thoroughly polish that area and then when finished replace the emblem with a new one. This is by far the best solution as it gives a refurbished paint a true complete look. Nothing bugs me more than having highly polished surface but your eyes are drawn to the marred up paint within the Carrera lettering

:)

 

Of course one can always go with a debadged Porsche abd avoid the problem all together !

 

Anthony

 

Thanks for the welcome, Anthony and congrats on this forum. Nice to see so many things coming together for you. As always, appreciate your excellent tips and willingness to share them.

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nice!

 

Do you measure paint when you wetsand? What grade paper did you use? By hand or mashine?

 

 

Hey man, nice to see you here also.

 

I use to have a paint meter but it broke and I have never replaced it.....BUT I will again someday. I use everything from 3000 up to 8000 grit papers and sand by hand.

 

Higher grade papers, grit wise, can be used on plastics as well.

 

Hey.....let's get a signature of your business up on the forum dude!!

 

Anthony

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how do I do that?

 

Well I can make you one or you can go to the "signature testing" thread and post up for Bullet Sponge what you would like done. You can make it about your business if you like, a car you detailed, products you like, even add a link to your website if you like.

 

Tell us in that thread your favorite colors, theme, etc.

 

Anthony

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Hey thanks Bullet and Iceman :)

 

Iceman, you have a really nice gloss to your paint.

 

As for the San Diego deal....I have yet to hear back from anyone on that. I'll keep trying though.

 

Thanks,

Anthony

 

Anthony

Pictures can be deceiving....my paint is good in the right light with the right angles...but in person it has lots of little swirls-spider webbing that drive me nuts.....I'm gonna try using some optimum polish with my terry cloth bonnet and my GEM 14lb buffer....then poli-seal & maybe optimum wax or a quality carnuba sometime soon......I've been using rejex and it works pretty well and lasts a long time....I don't expect the GEM to correct many of the swirls...but it will be better than what I have now.....I figure I need a cyclo to really correct some things!

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Anthony

Pictures can be deceiving....my paint is good in the right light with the right angles...but in person it has lots of little swirls-spider webbing that drive me nuts.....I'm gonna try using some optimum polish with my terry cloth bonnet and my GEM 14lb buffer....then poli-seal & maybe optimum wax or a quality carnuba sometime soon......I've been using rejex and it works pretty well and lasts a long time....I don't expect the GEM to correct many of the swirls...but it will be better than what I have now.....I figure I need a cyclo to really correct some things!

 

Not wanting to hijack this thread, but Iceman I'm curious about your choice of polishers and a terry cloth bonnet. I'm sure Anthony will chime in with his usual expert tips, but seems you'd get better results with foam pads and a PC?

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Anthony

Pictures can be deceiving....my paint is good in the right light with the right angles...but in person it has lots of little swirls-spider webbing that drive me nuts.....I'm gonna try using some optimum polish with my terry cloth bonnet and my GEM 14lb buffer....then poli-seal & maybe optimum wax or a quality carnuba sometime soon......I've been using rejex and it works pretty well and lasts a long time....I don't expect the GEM to correct many of the swirls...but it will be better than what I have now.....I figure I need a cyclo to really correct some things!

 

The terry cloth bonnet and the GEM are mainly designed for glaze/cream wax applications. It won't do much in terms of correction, in your case the removal of the marring, but you can give it a try. I would not use anything too abrasive with the GEM as it doesn't develop enough friction to completely and properly break down the abrasives which in turn would only create more marring.

 

I'm in the process of doing writing some threads about the Cyclo and rotary and what you can expect from each machine. I highly favor the Cyclo over the PC as it has more torque. I'll try and get those threads up as soon as possible.

 

Anthony

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