Poli-seal on glass, plastic, and rubber

[AKT]

Hello folks,

i just bought poli-seal because i like to stay within the opt product line. I will be applying it by hand. My plan is to gently rub poli-seal until it becomes clear or dry.

my question is, can i do the same method in glass and black trims? 

[Ron@Optimum]

welcome to the Optimum Forum...yes you can use that method on glass and black trim.  We recommend you dampen the applicator and watch how much you use - if it streaks you may be using too much.

[AKT]

1 minute ago, Ron@Optimum said:

welcome to the Optimum Forum...yes you can use that method on glass and black trim.  We recommend you dampen the applicator and watch how much you use - if it streaks you may be using too much.

Thanks Ron! I have been a member for some time now but i am not too active.. sorry..

so can i expect that the trims will not have those white chalky residue? And glass will not be full of smears?

[Ron@Optimum]

well, Poli-Seal is a polish (as well as cleaner/sealant), so there can be white residue on trim and glass.  It comes off easily with an ONR dampened micro fiber towel. 

[AKT]

Hi folks - i just tried poli-seal by hand last weekend. I applied it by hand because:

- my car is a daily driver

- my aim is to clean and protect

- i can live with my minor shiny swirls

 

Mine is the new formula poli-seal. Why is it “grabby” when applying, and difficult to remove? What could i have done wrong?

[Ron@Optimum]

not sure what you're comparing it to, but as an all in one the polish component has abrasives that require some effort to work (specially by hand).  And it's that same polish that leaves some residue that needs buffing.  If the haze is heavy, you are probably using too much product. 

[AKT]

Thanks Ron. I compared it to the blackfire one step. Maybe i had the wrong expectation; i was expecting poli-seal to be very easy to apply and remove. Like other OPT products in terms of ease of use.

but is it normal that my applicator (i tried both foam and MF) are being stuck on the panel? I dropped one actually because my hand moved but the applicator did not...

Edited May 1, 2018 by AKT

[Ron@Optimum]

I've never had that experience with Poli-Seal, but have not used the new formula yet (I've always preferred the spray GPS).  I will see if the OPT Regional Mgrs have had that happen.

[AKT]

Thanks Ron. I will keep watching this thread. Appreciate your help.

i live in a tropical climate but it was late afternoon when i applied poli-seal so i don’t think it’s the heat.

[Ron@Optimum]

Dr G states the new formula has changed to natural solvents and that affects behavior.  He suggests GPS that is less thick/sticky product.

[AKT]

Thanks Ron! Now you gonna make me buy more product! Lol

is there a technique when using GPS by hand? Dont have a machine - old school and cheap...

[Ron@Optimum]

Poli-Seal feedback from Yvan:

Those having issues, when consulted, we find a combination of things that combined, or individually, make it a little harder to remove. First is heat, too much of it “cooks” the product to the surface. Excess heat can be generated a few ways, too high of tool speed, we recommend speed 3 on the Zentool, and below 1000 rpm on a rotary. Next is pressure, just the weight of the tool is enough , additional pressure will generate heat. Overworking the polish will also cause it to “ stick” to the paint. 3-4 passes is all that it takes. Finally product over use will have the same negative effects. Either having too much on the surface, or using a pad that is full of residual polish and clear coat will cause this. If you have product that is hard to remove, a few solutions can help, first using an Optimum No Rinse(ONR) dampened MF towel. Next you can spray the surface with Optimum Car Wax. Finally a quick pass with fresh polish. 

[Ron@Optimum]

I've used GPS with a foam applicator and MF towel, I prefer the MF because I feel it agitates better.  I always dampen the media with ONR solution.  While a rotary + GPS will correct better/faster, I've frequently done it by hand.

[AKT]

13 minutes ago, Ron@Optimum said:

Poli-Seal feedback from Yvan:

Those having issues, when consulted, we find a combination of things that combined, or individually, make it a little harder to remove. First is heat, too much of it “cooks” the product to the surface. Excess heat can be generated a few ways, too high of tool speed, we recommend speed 3 on the Zentool, and below 1000 rpm on a rotary. Next is pressure, just the weight of the tool is enough , additional pressure will generate heat. Overworking the polish will also cause it to “ stick” to the paint. 3-4 passes is all that it takes. Finally product over use will have the same negative effects. Either having too much on the surface, or using a pad that is full of residual polish and clear coat will cause this. If you have product that is hard to remove, a few solutions can help, first using an Optimum No Rinse(ONR) dampened MF towel. Next you can spray the surface with Optimum Car Wax. Finally a quick pass with fresh polish. 

First off, I can’t believe that the founder of OPT (Dr. G) and the man who converted me to rinseless washing thru his YouTube videos (Yvan) took the time to answer my rookie question. Much appreciated!

- heat from the tool = not applicable because i only use my hands

- pressure = i put some pressure when i applied by hand. I thought that would be more effective. Probably around 20lbs of pressure

- overworking = guilty. I thought i should work poli-seal until it “disappears”

- product overuse = guilty. In my efforts to make poli-seal “smoother” when applying, i added more and more product

- pad full of residual polish = guilty. I did not clean my applicators until i was done. But i used 3 applicators for the whole vehicle

 

10 minutes ago, Ron@Optimum said:

I've used GPS with a foam applicator and MF towel, I prefer the MF because I feel it agitates better.  I always dampen the media with ONR solution.  While a rotary + GPS will correct better/faster, I've frequently done it by hand.

What is your application method by hand? Spray into the MF towel then spread lightly? Or “scrub” the surface?

 

Ron - thank you for your genuine efforts in trying to help me. Much appreciated. I work in customer service for a tech company so i know when someone is “just doing their job” VS really trying to help.

[Ron@Optimum]

I appreciate your kind words - Optimum is a relatively small company (especially in comparison to Meguiars, etc) and our marketing is mostly word of mouth, so customer service is king.   Additionally, Dr G is the kind of man who inspires respect and there is not much he won't do for customers.

I prime my MF or pad with GPS, then spray on the surface as needed.  In order to get correction, I agitate the surface pretty firmly, not sure if Yvan agrees (he's the master of touching lightly).  All that said, with Yvan's response you may be ready to attempt Poli-Seal again...