Claying car coated with Opti-Coat Pro+

[Ozzcaddy]

My car was coated 14 months ago with Opti-Coat Pro+, the car is outside on the street 24/7. In February I did a chemical decontamination, but did not clay the car at that time as I was hesitant of causing marring and damage to the coating, even though I already had the Ultra Clay towel. The car does need claying, as I can hear the Big Gold Sponge on the surface when washing.

Along with ONR, what other Optimum product could I use on this coating that will provide the greater lubrication on this coating, so to avoid any marring?

Is there any particular steps or procedure to do, so to achieve the best outcome after claying?

Thank you.

 

[Detail Mutant]

The Optimum product which provides the best lubrication and minimizes potential of marring while using the Ultra Clay towel is Optimum Car Wax (OCW).  Simply apply ONR to panel with wash media (BGS) and apply one spray of of OCW  per 4 ft x 4 ft section and place Clay towel over area sprayed and start claying section.  Ensure clay towel is wet with ONR.  Since your vehicle is coated, the OCW in unlikely to be able to adhere to the surface for very long but will act as the best lubricant for the claying process.

However before claying, it is best to do chemical iron removal first using Ferrex which will further reduce the chance of marring.  For my vehicles, I typically will apply Ferrex and use that as the clay lubricant in order to accomplish chemical and mechanical decontamination  in a single step.  My vehicles have Gloss Coat(2 year coating) so I am no overly concerned about slight marring not that I have seen evidence of marring using this procedure. 

[Ozzcaddy]

Thanks Detail Mutant for your in depth information. Even though I had done the chemical iron remover process with Ferrex in February, would it be best to do it again to be on the safe side. Due to COVID-19 in Australia, we are still House Bound, and I have only done about 1,000klsm since February, but saying that, the car is still parked on the street.

Again, thanks for the information.

[Detail Mutant]

No problem Ozzcaddy.

Assuming the car isn't parked near a source of iron contamination (like railroad tracks) then I wouldn't bother with only 1000 km driven.  My schedule for doing Ferrex (or other iron remover) is every 6 months which is typically 10,000 km so I doubt much iron contamination has built up parked on the street.  I also follow 6 month schedule because my main vehicle colour is white which shows the iron particles as orange spots after a period of time (especially with the harsh winters here in Canada).

[Ron@Optimum]

Mutant is right, decontamination can be done too often and strong chemicals like FerreX may be overused.

[Ozzcaddy]

@Detail Mutant, @Ron-Optimum,  just to let you guys know that I finally got to clay the car today June 30th, since I posted back in early May. We have had a lot of rain in Sydney, Aust. and are in Winter, and having the opportunity when it didn't  rain was hard to co-ordinate. Following both your advice and information, it took the finish to another level. The roof and bonnet (hood) took the longest to do as they were both very gritty, as the car is parked outside 24/7. The vertical panels and rear hatch did not take long to do. I went over the car tonight to check if any marring had occurred, there was none to be found.

I didn't do any other chemical decontamination prior to claying.

As both the roof and bonnet were gritty, I thought of claying them twice a year - is that OK to do?

[Ron@Optimum]

If you clay as carefully as the first time, twice a year should not overly reduce the Coating.

[Ozzcaddy]

Thanks Ron. I'll inspect those 2 panels first and decide if they need claying after 6 months or not.

Again, appreciate the advice.

[Detail Mutant]

15 hours ago, Ozzcaddy said:

@Detail Mutant, @Ron-Optimum,  just to let you guys know that I finally got to clay the car today June 30th, since I posted back in early May. We have had a lot of rain in Sydney, Aust. and are in Winter, and having the opportunity when it didn't  rain was hard to co-ordinate. Following both your advice and information, it took the finish to another level. The roof and bonnet (hood) took the longest to do as they were both very gritty, as the car is parked outside 24/7. The vertical panels and rear hatch did not take long to do. I went over the car tonight to check if any marring had occurred, there was none to be found.

I didn't do any other chemical decontamination prior to claying.

As both the roof and bonnet were gritty, I thought of claying them twice a year - is that OK to do?

Glad to here it went well with no issues.  I would let your observation washing with your Big Gold Sponge be your guide as to whether you need to clay at more frequent intervals.  If it starts to grab/ feel gritty consider claying those sections again.  Just make sure to use appropriate clay lube (OCW) and minimize pressure on the clay media to eliminate potential for marring.

[Ozzcaddy]

@Detail Mutant, I'll take you advice on letting the Big Gold Sponge direct me to whether a panel needs claying or not.

After posting the other day about claying the car and taking the finish to another level, I have had 4 neighbours who have seen me wash my car previously, asked me what did I different as the cars finish looks completely different to my normal wash and coating of Hyper Seal. With the knowledge I have learnt and understanding of car detailing and the use of Optimum products, I explained why the difference. It most likely won't change their car washing behaviour of taking it to a car wash, but hopefully they have a better understanding of what proper washing ,and maintenance detailing can do to a car.

[Ron@Optimum]

change is slow and sometimes the best we can do show by example -