2011 Sierra- Using Chris' Method for Opti Bond

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This truck belongs to a repeat customer who is in construction contracting. His trucks are usually dirty, especially in and around the doors. His wishes for the truck were an inside and out wash and wax. The budget covered that only. Being a repeat customer, I did more than that for him. I also tried a few new things on this job too.



As it arrived:


Dirty with bugs on the front:













There were a few scratches in the paint as well that needed attention:









The chrome was in dire need of some attention:




The fender skirts with residue in the seams:




A light paint scuff in the back top part of the cab:




The trim needed some attention too:






Dirty and salt stained interior:

















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The Process:


Wash, Wheels, Emblems/Fender Skirts, etc:


I started with the wheels which got Zep Citrus on the face and in the barrels. Tires were cleaned thoroughly with Zep Purple and the wells were cleaned with Zep Citrus.


The emblems and fender skirts were cleaned with Zep Citrus and a Raceglaze brush.


The truck was then foamed with DG 901 and then washed with DG 901 and Dawn to make sure any remaining wax was gone. Mission accomplished.


The truck was then pulled inside while wet and was clayed with Riccardo yellow that was microwaved to make it as pliable as possible. I did not want to get marring from the clay and it was removing a ton of crap from the paint.


The interior was tended to next. It got a thorough vacuum with my awesome PF51 that continues to impress me to no end. I also am having a love/hate relationship with my GAIA steamer. I had it fixed and replaced the part that was recommended, but it was still leaking out steam when I tried it. I was ready to get rid of it, but, leaking steam or not, I needed it on this truck badly. So, when it got a head of steam...not leaking this time! Who knows with this thing?!? Anyway, between Folex, steam and vacuum, all the salt stains and dirt were done away with.

The leather was cleaned with my amazing Auto Glym pad and Optimum Power clean at 3:1. Then they were treated to UIGP. Love that stuff! The plastic was treated to PERL at 2:1.

The rubber mats were cleaned with ZC and sprayed with foaming tire spray so they look good but are not slippery.


Next up was the chrome. After reading Troy's review on Collinite Metal Wax, I decided I'd use the 0000 steel wool with it on the chrome, especially the bad parts. It is an awesome combo and one I highly recommend...even on good chrome! I did it slightly different and used a terry towel to remove it and then buffed it with a mf towel. Very, very nice finish to it. GM has really nice chrome, I'll say that.


Next up was scratch repair. I have a spray can with GM black paint in it from a previous job. This is the best paint you can use for scratch repair, period. Why? I shoot some onto a plastic lid and dip a pointy toothpick into it. It is so liquidy and runny, that it barely sticks to the toothpick. The result is you can lay down a very fine bead of paint into a scratch, even if it is a very fine scratch. It's amazing how the paint will flow into a scratch this way. The spots were allowed to dry for over 24 hours.


The paint was only due for a "wax job". Nope. Wasn't gonna happen. It seemed cloudy and really needed a true one step product to clean the paint and also offer some protection. I tried both the DG Swirl Remover and 501. 501 made the paint just jump and it also has some great protection all on its own. I used a DA and a white LCC pad at speed 6. I really worked it in. Now, for removal, I got to use the mf that Heath told me I could keep from the sample box. I chose a DD Uber towel 'cause I had never had one before. My Gosh was it ever soft!! It did an awesome job of removing the 501 residue and the paint just jumped! I will be getting a few of these. It seemed softer than even the latest PakShak ones I got. That's saying something!!



Next is the part that I learned from Chris. Thanks again for that tip. Too bad it took me so long to try it, LOL!


Lastly the tires and trim. I tried something new with the tires. I had purchased a small spray gun for my air compressor and used a 50/50 mix of Opti Bond and water in the gun. It went on so finely it was almost like a fine mist. To say it goes on evenly is a gross understatement. For tires with big ridges or ribs, this is the answer! Plus it gave a much more natural look than what I am used to. (Now mind you I usually use OB straight, so that may be a part of it too).

The trim got my now standard of UTTG. Again, it did a great job.


Finally I gave the paint a wipedown of AW to ensure a smooth finish.



Here are some INSIDE SHOTS:








My "flawless reflections"










Light scratch in the front of the hood was filled in:




A much improved interior:








Salt stains gone:





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Tailgate scratch just filled in and only leveled with 501:




Scratches on driver's side doors vastly improved. Leveled slightly with M105 and B & S yellow pad:


















Thanks for looking. Comments appreciated.

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Nice work as always. I get a lot of vehicles just like that one where I live. I really like the instant gratification when the customer sees what ive done. I'm glad you liked the application tip. You can can also put it on heavy with the gun and knock it down with a Surbuf applicator for a real nice look.


OK, thanks for the tip. I was playing with the output of the gun and put it heavy on one tire, so I wiped it down with a terry towel. I liked the appearance that gave it, so I did that on all of them (that was for a BMW I just did and will post later). This is now my go-to method, no question!

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