Heijneker Posted August 18, 2021 Share Posted August 18, 2021 Hey all, I've been working at a used car dealership for the past couple of weeks now. Of course as a detailer and I'm enjoying the work. It's great! Largerly thanks to Optimum (and Yvan), I can make very decent money doing these jobs, since I'm twice/three times as fast as competing detailers, with superior results. Right now, I can complete 3 cars inside and out per day, to a good/very good (for dealerships) result. Soon this will hopefully become 4! So thanks for that!! Yesterday however, I met my match! An older white van, with heavy oxidation. Here's how bad it was: Yikes! After I tried my Rotary (FLEX PE 14-1 Speed 3), a 6.5' Lake Country wool pad and Hyper Compound, I was left with this: WARNING: Non-Optimum polishing action ahead. Yup, I'm thinking that that needs sanding! Sadly I did not have the equipment to sand the whole car, so I decided to try what I see everybody else doing: 164.537 step polishing and a full day's work. Eventually, after getting the panel so hot I could fry an egg on it, I got it looking good!: But what would be the Optimum way to fix this paint? Obviously sanding would be the way, but what would be the process? Would I start with 3000 grit or lower? Would I finish with 3000 grit or higher? How would I know if the sanding would be sufficient? What device would be recommended to sand with? What I'm thinking would be the Optimum way: Sanding with 3000 grit (or first lower if required), then follow up with 6000 grit and polish to a shine with a DA and Hyper Polish. Hyper Polish should be able to handle that, right? I'm hoping a high quality electric sander would suffice. Thanks for reading and thanks in advance for the reply. I'd understand if this was too much too ask. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setec Astronomy Posted August 18, 2021 Share Posted August 18, 2021 Why would you skip to sanding? I haven't used the latest versions of Compound or Intensive Polish, but I would think one of them would do the trick, it didn't look that bad to me. What machine are you using? If you have a DA you can sand with that, no need for a "high quality electric sander". If you were going to sand, 3000 is way too much, I would do 5000 or 6000, but again, if you have a decent machine with today's polishes, I would think Compound followed by Intensive Polish would be fine for a white truck. I understand the current Compound is quite gritty, so I'm not sure if you could skip to Hyper Polish from that. What did you actually use? Polish/pad/machine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heijneker Posted August 30, 2021 Author Share Posted August 30, 2021 @Setec Astronomy I would skip to sanding to keep panel temperature down and save time. Compounding 6 times the panel got wat too hot. My Flex XFE 7-15 has too high a offset for sanding. I used my FLEX pe 14-1 on speed 2-3, an 8' wool pad and Optimum Hyper compound. Hyper compound is indeed very gritty, has amazing cut and works very well. This was the worst case of oxidation I have seen on clear coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setec Astronomy Posted August 31, 2021 Share Posted August 31, 2021 Oh, I see. When you said "DA" I presumed you were talking about something with a smaller orbit, rather than a long-stroke. I still think 3000 grit is too much, 5000 I think is what I would do, but I don't think I've ever machine sanded paint, only headlights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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