Cause Of Paint Spider Webbing.

[Jason Montgomery]

You can "respectfully and demonstrably disagree" but you joined a forum for answers

Agreed...and still no answer to the question in my first post:

This is my question....is there an Optimum way to easily rid my paint of these very very minor spider webs.

and seem intent on finding fault with those that are contrary to your preconceived notions.

My only intention is for learning and truth.   I am not sure what notions are preconceived by me...perhaps you can tell me what they are.

Although I did not see the relevance in answering:
    What are you washing with?
   What clay/clay lube?
   Why?

I did answer, and after being told how awful my cleaning procedure was, I followed up with why I clean my paint the way I do.     I would think my experience is relevant.   I am not telling people who use pressure washers and foaming guns and two buckets their procedure doesn't produce a clean car.   I just don't think it is necessary in regards to time and expense FOR MY SITUATION.    Maybe if I lived in the back roads of the south or drove on dirt roads, I would think differently.

Lastly, I have zero reason to lambast Optimum products.   For 9 months, my car was protected with very little effort and a brilliant shine.   I came here for paint correction advice from a product I trust.  

[Setec Astronomy]

It has been said by some that sealants like Opti-Seal could have a remedial effect on "spiderweb" swirls by filling in the "low spots" with repeated application.

As to your comments regarding washing--there is middle ground between "pressure washers and foaming guns and two buckets" and your methods of QD wipedown or wash with plain water from a hose and a sponge.  As I have previously noted a safer way to do your wipedown wash would be with a waterless wash such as Opti-Clean.  Waterless wash products are designed to have more capacity for dirt encapsulation than a quick detailer.  I personally would argue that the development of waterless washes effectively obsoleted quick detailers.

My personal recommendation, would be to explore a rinseless wash such as Optimum No-Rinse (ONR) or Optimum No-Rinse Wash & Wax (ONRWW).   These can be done with a single bucket (grit guard recommended); I personally prefer to use a rinse bucket.  Or there is the "single-use media" method (I'll describe this later).

The idea of a rinseless wash is that you wet your wash media and wipe a single panel or portion of a panel, then dry with a separate towel.  You can then re-wet your wash media, and move on to the next section.  Or you can rinse the wash media in a separate bucket, or you can have multiple wash media (the "single-use media"), such as 4 or 5 microfiber towels.  In this case, say you have a 16 x 16 towel, it can be folded twice to give you 8 sides, and you can discard (for laundering) after the 8 sides without reintroducing any dirt from a previous section.

Here's kind of a basic ONR video:  

And just to hit another couple of things and then I'm bailing out.

The reason you got asked about your process is because touching your paint--whether it's you or someone else brushing past it in the garage or parking lot, you Kozaking it, QD'ing, washing, drying, applying wax/sealant, claying, etc.--that's how you get spiderweb swirling.  There's an old saw about how car show cars have the most swirls--because they are constantly being wiped down.  Cars that get cleaned/wiped less have less marring--although they may have other kinds of damage (water spots, bird poop etching) from not being cleaned.

And finally, you seem to have taken the position that this (or any other detailing forum) is full of professional detailers who don't have the same perspective or priorities as you do.  These forums are generally trafficked by "enthusiasts" (although there are many weekend warriors or full time pro detailers).  You have to understand that the internet and these kind of forums have allowed a level of information sharing and collaboration or "crowd-sourcing" of knowledge that just was not possible 25 years ago.

The advice that I and others have tried to give you doesn't come from one person's experience, or the experience of their father or brother or uncle, it comes from the shared experiences of thousands and thousands of occasional, enthusiast, and pro detailers from around the world sharing their experiences and insight and collaboratively working toward "best practice" methods, so that someone like you can come here and benefit from that.  The easiest way to fix your swirls is not to get them in the first place.

[Setec Astronomy]

Here's another video that partly features Anthony Orosco, who was the founder of this forum.  He also made the first video I know of, before YouTube, demonstrating ONR, that must have been in 2006 or so.

 

[Setec Astronomy]

Ha, found that original video, I believe it is from 2007 although it was posted to YouTube in 2012:

 

We all thought Anthony was crazy back then, washing a Ferrari like that.  Now I can't remember the last time I did a conventional wash (except for wheels).

And a followup:

 

[Ron@Optimum]

There ARE solutions to fix your marring, but without changes to your procedure, the damage will return.  I asked about clay because it can induce marring. I asked about the wash procedure for the same reason.  What's the point to fixing if the problem comes back?  You can try Optimum GPS (Glaze/Polish/Seal which is the only Optimum product will filler) or Hyper Polish to remove light marring/spider webs. 

Nobody said your methods were "awful", but asked questions until you provided a complete explanation, then suggested what are in our opinion, better ways to maintain your car.  Preconceived notions are that products/methods used on a 30+ year old vehicle with differing driving conditions would apply to a 2022 car.  The technology has improved drastically as have the chemical products, but paint is not as resistant to damage. Opti-Seal is a fine product, but there new options that are harder, more resistant to marring, and more durable.  Ultra Ceramic Seal (6 months) and Opti-Coat Hyper Seal (up to 1 year) are harder, more chemical resistant, have greater longevity, and are as easy to apply (wipe on/walk away).