Bunky Posted April 28, 2008 Share Posted April 28, 2008 Is there a way to correlate the cut from OP and a LC yellow pad using the a Meguiar's like cut ranking? For example, is OP + Yellow equal to Meg's 83 using a PC? What is the recommended color for finishing? white? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bunky Posted April 30, 2008 Author Share Posted April 30, 2008 Every car is different and the least aggressive combo should be tried first. There is no magic combo that works best on every car and no one step that does heavy correcting while finishing LSP ready. That being said, If OP on a white or orange ain't doing it, you need to dtep up to OC, or OHC and the yellow pad. Use cutting pads with compounds, polishing pads with polishes, and finishing/finessing pads with LSPs. You can get away with finishing with a white pad on some cars, but probably not dark colors. I don't know about the Meg's part, sorry! So a orange or yellow cutting pad is not recommended with Optimum Polish? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve H Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 Having used both the Optimum products and Meg's line, I would say that with the orange pad and #83 is going to give you slightly more cut in a shorter amount of time. That being said however, with 83 you have to contend with flaking and gumming. (83 has a learning curve) The OC may not cut as fast, but, it gives you much more working time and no powder residue. Additionally, OC/OP and PS all work in conjunction with each other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bunky Posted May 1, 2008 Author Share Posted May 1, 2008 ....but it's not gonna look as good as using task specific combinations. If it's all you have, give it a shot! Hmmm. I was hoping it least would finish nice compared to other dedicated products like PB SSR1, etc so I could have one basic polish with a PC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bunky Posted May 2, 2008 Author Share Posted May 2, 2008 I think I may be over complicating it for you. Anthony has a video where he uses OP with several pads even to finish on a Porsche. I detail for money and have more stuff at my disposal and my time is money. I won't try to "make something work" unless I'm out of a product I need. I've actually been using UF after OP since I've been working with the rotary, because it give much more clarity. Without buying tons of stuff and using each one enough to know what it will achieve, you're probably better off with one polish. Then as you get more comfortable with your products and machine you will learn the limitations of both. This process is necessary and will make you develop a very critical eye. With the suggestions from the guys on the forum, you will get a good starting place, but there are so many variables that come into play for each car, you'll still have to do some trials for yourself. Enjoy the process of learning the skills of proper polishing and try not to make it a frustrating chore. And, don't get discouraged if you don't get it right away. If it was easy, everyone would be doing it. Hope this helps! Chris Where are the videos posted? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehall Posted May 3, 2008 Share Posted May 3, 2008 You can definitely use a cutting pad with Optimum polish. I just did it myself, on both a dark blue Lexus and a burgandy Camry. What I needed was a bit of a compromise solution. It worked great. I did however follow the rule stated above, by intergritydetail. For me this was the least aggressive combination. I then polished with a green pad, followed by poly seal and a green pad, then finished with a white pad and poly seal. (these were Cyclo pads on my Cyclo) I finished with a hand application of Trade Secret Wax. So you can always get more aggressive, but too aggressive creates a LOT more work, if you aren't careful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bunky Posted May 3, 2008 Author Share Posted May 3, 2008 You can definitely use a cutting pad with Optimum polish. I just did it myself, on both a dark blue Lexus and a burgandy Camry. What I needed was a bit of a compromise solution. It worked great. I did however follow the rule stated above, by intergritydetail. For me this was the least aggressive combination. I then polished with a green pad, followed by poly seal and a green pad, then finished with a white pad and poly seal. (these were Cyclo pads on my Cyclo) I finished with a hand application of Trade Secret Wax. So you can always get more aggressive, but too aggressive creates a LOT more work, if you aren't careful. I have a few more questions. If there is a how to thread on this forum somewhere or elsewhere, I would appreciate it. When using a PC, How much polish does one use per panel? How much pressure on the DA and how does pressure affect the polish (if much at all)? What would be an expected work time of the polish (4 to 5 min?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehall Posted May 4, 2008 Share Posted May 4, 2008 I have a few more questions. If there is a how to thread on this forum somewhere or elsewhere, I would appreciate it. When using a PC, How much polish does one use per panel? How much pressure on the DA and how does pressure affect the polish (if much at all)? What would be an expected work time of the polish (4 to 5 min?) PC's make relatively little heat. With a pc, you will regulate the cut based on the coarseness of the pad, combined with the compounding or polishing product that you use. I recommend that you use a stronger product with a weaker pad. Let the machine do the work. If it isn't giving you results, go to a more coarse pad with the same product. Again, let the machine do the work. Like I tell my Golf students, let the club do the work. Once you figure out how to do that, I'll teach you how to make the club work more specifically. PC type machines are no different. I can't really teach you until you learn how to swing the machine. Like ID said. start with a mild combo and work to a stronger combo if it is not working. ALL PC type machines, take longer, require more effort, but do MUCH less damage than Rotary polishers. By the way, you need to clay bar the car first! Oops, that's may be a new can of worms! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehall Posted May 4, 2008 Share Posted May 4, 2008 I have a few more questions. If there is a how to thread on this forum somewhere or elsewhere, I would appreciate it. When using a PC, How much polish does one use per panel? How much pressure on the DA and how does pressure affect the polish (if much at all)? What would be an expected work time of the polish (4 to 5 min?) If using optimum products, use about a quarter sized amount on each pad, or one pad, depending on the machine. Work time depends on the amount of correction and combo being used. It's always different. Pressure helps create heat. Heat is powerful. Right now, avoid pressurized heat and allow time on station to create your heat. It's easier to control. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bunky Posted May 4, 2008 Author Share Posted May 4, 2008 If using optimum products, use about a quarter sized amount on each pad, or one pad, depending on the machine. Work time depends on the amount of correction and combo being used. It's always different.Pressure helps create heat. Heat is powerful. Right now, avoid pressurized heat and allow time on station to create your heat. It's easier to control. Thanks. This is what I wanted. I looked at the video but it is a rotary. I have used the PC before so I know correction takes time. I just wanted to know about this polish since it is unlike other polishes except possiblt for Mothers Power Polish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwaug Posted May 4, 2008 Share Posted May 4, 2008 Like I tell my Golf students, let the club do the work. Once you figure out how to do that, I'll teach you how to make the club work more specifically. PC type machines are no different. I can't really teach you until you learn how to swing the machine. Can we start a golf instruction thread? I need more help there than with my detailing!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehall Posted May 5, 2008 Share Posted May 5, 2008 Like I tell my Golf students, let the club do the work. Once you figure out how to do that, I'll teach you how to make the club work more specifically. PC type machines are no different. I can't really teach you until you learn how to swing the machine. Can we start a golf instruction thread? I need more help there than with my detailing!!!! LOL. Yes we can , if you'd like. BUT Here's the deal. If I can't ACTUALLY see you swing, I can only help you in general ways, or send you to links where you will get a visual of proper things such as grip, posture, swing plane, and some positions. The problem is that golf requires a SWING, not a set of positions! If you learn to feel the club head, throughout the swing, I can guarantee you that you will take 15 strokes off of your handicap. To feel the club head requires that you stay relaxed, in balance, and always under control, but with shoulders, arms and hands like wet spaghetti. Here's your free tip, straight from Ben Hogan. The swing sequence is as follows, and NEVER deviates. Backswing: Hands, arms, shoulders hips. Through swing: Hips, shoulders, arms then hands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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