OPTIMUM FAQs

[Ron@Optimum]

Optimum is going to start a FAQ segment here, to respond to those basic questions that come up all the time.  We're starting with responses from Dr G to a customer on a variety of subjects:

 

1) A strong but gentle one-step interior cleaner that leaves protection: OPC at around 5:1 does great cleaning dirty interiors, but I frequently don't want a two-step process that requires me to then apply Protectant.  And I find Opti-clean not strong enough sometimes.   Do you think mixing Opti-clean, Optimum Protectant and Power Clean is a good solution, and if so, at what ratio would you experiment?  In most cases you can use Optimum Protectant Plus to clean and protect in one step. For more soiled leather and other interior surfaces most professional detailers spray Power Clean at 1:5 dilution on the surface and then spray Protectant Plus on top of it before wiping it down in a combined one step process.

2) Wheel cleaner: I can find no exact combination from Optimum I like so I end up buying a dedicated wheel cleaner...  Powerclean dries too quickly and seems to not have enough lubrication or "weight" to handle the dirty BMW and Porsche wheels.  Could I emulate a spray-on cleaner that dwells and cleans by mixing straight Power clean concentrate with some Car Wash and Opti-clean for additional dwell time and lubricity/suds, and/or maybe with some of your Iron Remover?  Iron remover has good cling, but insufficient cleaning vs a dedicated product like p21s. We are in the process of changing the sprayer for Power Clean to a foamer which will improve the dwell time and clinging of Power Clean. You can also combine Power Clean with FerreX to increase cleaning and dwell time as well.

3) I like using various of your products as a drying aid, but my expensive towels get clogged up eventually.  What is the best way to completely remove dried Opti-seal and OCW from towels?  I am okay with a multi-step process if needed. Most detergents such as Tide that are used in the washing machine should remove waxes and oils from your microfiber towels. For greater cleaning you can use a solution of Power Clean diluted in water to presoak your towels before putting them in the washing machine. Another suggestion is to add 1/4 cup of Power Clean to the wash.

4) I have been experimenting with Adam's new ceramic/graphene coating on some things because of their longevity claims, but I would rather use yours.  Do you have consumer products that should have the longevity of their newest graphene products? For the best performance and longevity as well as ease of application I would recommend Opti-Coat Hyper Seal which has ceramic resins and can be applied while drying your car.

5) I know this has been asked a million times, but for a really dirty car, do you think a traditional wash with your car wash is safer than ONR? And if the car is really dirty would you still stick with 256:1, or go with a different ratio like 100:1?  And/or just mix Optimum Car Wash with some ONR?   I am not concerned about saving money by using less product... We have washed cars with several months of dirt buildup with the same dilution of 256:1 No Rinse with great results. If the car has too much dirt build up or caked on mud, then we would recommend pre-rinsing with a hose/power washer to remove the excess dirt or mud and then use No Rinse which would not require rinsing afterwards but still provides the lubricity and protection that car washes don't. You can use up to 1 oz. No Rinse if you want to increase the lubricity and dirt encapsulation, however I would not use higher concentrations since it can cause streaking. 

6) Is there a dilution of ONR, like say 4:1, that would be a good paint-prep/cleaner before applying a coating?   Or does it not work that way and/or leave too much stuff behind to be a good paint-prep?  I have your dedicated paint-prep spray, but it seems like if I have missed any dirt that there would be too little protection and cleaning from that to avoid scratches after a decontamination process. You can use No Rinse at 8 oz. to a gallon of water which is the quick detailer ratio as your prep solution, however Paint Prep does a better job of preparing the painted surfaces for bonding of a wax or coating.

 

[Ron@Optimum]

FAQ - ceramic coatings are chemically resistant to anything short of industrial strength products (one of their best attributes).