whiplash willy Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 I have seen some detailing threads where people are using Power Clean 3:1 on some really nasty door and trunk jams. They have turned out really well, but from my undersdanding, you want to rince power clean well after use. Any ideas on how they are doing this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bunky Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 Just use water. To control the water, you can just take the sprayer off, get closer, and use a similar technique as sheeting water off the paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whiplash willy Posted June 12, 2012 Author Share Posted June 12, 2012 Thanks, I will try that. I did get my first chace to use PowerClean this weekend. I diluted it to 3:1 with distilled water. I have a 90 nissan 240sx that had been sitting outside for several months. All sorts of stuff was gathering/growing around the trim areas of the car. I sprayed PC and let it sit for a few min, then rinsed off. I had to rinse these areas. It did a great job of cleaning even without agitating! It seemed I had to rinse all of these areas for several before I could see product (Soapy like residue) stop coming off. Does PC at 3:1 need to be rinsed VERY THOUROUGHLY, or is this just because I didn't agitate those areas before rinsing? I am worried about the residue it can leave behind. This makes me nervous about using it on door sills, since rinsing it for that long would be a pain. It also makes me wounder how people are using it at 3:1 to clean leather and other interior places, and just wiping it off, without rinsing. I belive in the proudct, I am sure I am just not using it correctly. Any advice would be appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perfections Detail Posted June 13, 2012 Share Posted June 13, 2012 Interior I use it 10:1, door sills the same, dirty dirty leather can vary, can use it full strength just make sure to apply it to your towel or brush, then to the leather, after your done wipe with a damp mf, apply protectant plus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sscully Posted June 13, 2012 Share Posted June 13, 2012 On doorjambs that are really nasty, I use a Tornador Black cleaning gun with APC in it ( ~ interior trim dilution ). I clean it with the jar of APC on the gun. Switch to a jar with water in it, then a jar with ONR @ QD strength then shut off the jar valve and just blow out the door jamb. I keep an old towel to the interior side next to the Tornador as I move down the door jamb ( or around the trunk / hood jamb ) to get any overspray that might happen. A cloth shield of sorts. Once I am done with this, I can just use OCW on the jamb for some protection and to help make it easier to clean the next time. If I have already cleaned out the jamb and applied OCW, I can just clean it with ONR in the jar, and blow it out ( check for streaking - buff if needed ) re-apply OCW. The Tornador Black was kind of pricey, but it is worth the investment if you plan on doing nook & cranny type detail work, saves a bunch of time and is great for cleaning headliners ( dogs get the headliner dirty by the windows ). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heijneker Posted April 8, 2020 Share Posted April 8, 2020 Old topic, I know, but for any new readers: If by Jambs, you mean the sills (painted metal) close the door/trunk and spray water between the panel gaps. This way, interior is sealed from the water. This works for most vehicles, higher end vehicles may have another seal to seal the panel gaps at the doors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron@Optimum Posted April 9, 2020 Share Posted April 9, 2020 a microfiber dampened with ONR will work to rinse Power Clean as well. EBGroup 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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