Opti Coat Pro + 1 year later with observations/questions

[crazytruker]

Hi all. It's been awhile. 

Just over a year ago I had Opti-coat Pro + put on my truck. A year later and I'm kind of wishing I didn't do it. Here's why.

*I don't trust my installer. He's the only one within 60 miles of where I live. Optimum won't authorize another installer within 10 miles of an existing installer, so I've been told. The place I'd prefer to deal with is within that 10 miles and has been denied. They are bummed as am I.  My installer is constantly changing his story. At this point I do not trust him. This also results in me hesitating to take the truck in to him. 

*Some time in March, I believe, I hit a small area of melted snow run off that basically sprayed up a light spray on to my tailgate. It was a few days before I got the chance to clean the vehicle. That spray left water spots on the tail gate. They're still there. I've been told anything from a water/vinegar solutiuon to a wheel cleaner can remove it. But why is it leaving these hard water spots? This would indicate every thime the vehicle gets wet from rain, snow, of run off spray on the road that it's going to leave water spots if not immediately cleaned off. What's the purpose of this coating of it's going to require an acidic cleaning to remove them every time?

*There are other areas of the vehicle with water spots as well. I do not understand why hard water leaves spots so easily on a coating that repels water so easily. Nor do I understand the removal process of them. Spray with water/vinegar first then clean as normal? After cleaning apply a solution? Again, I don't trust my installer. I'll explain more in a bit.

These water spots and ease of them appearing is my biggest problem. I do also think the paint scratches a little too easily for something touted as a 9H hardness. I understand it's not impervious to scratching but come on. I wash it as directed and actually in a safer manner than as directed and it still scratches. There's also no "self curing" of scratches. I saw some light staining left after cleaning bird droppings off disappear about a day or two after cleaning but no scratch healing. 

Full disclosuer: I work a lot of hours. I don't have tons of time nor the desire to detail and pristinely keep after my vehicle. If it gets road salts/mag chloride exposed I try to get it off as soon as possible. Usually that results in a touch free pass through a car wash. Then I do the Opti line of products cleaning when I can. I admit my part in not being perfect in this. I'm also not looking for a warranty claim either.  But I still feel this coating for what it cost me to get installed should resist spotting better. I ask myself... if I did not have this coating on here would my paint be spotted from this spray or some water drops that have dried on the paint? I've never seen it before this on another vehicle of mine. I've also never had a black vehicle before this. It's baffling.

Trust issues of installer:

When the Pro + was installed it was October, 2017. Due to the time of year and possibility of snow with roads salts/mag chloride exposure, the installer went over top of the Pro + coating with another Opti product as a sort of "sacrificial" layer. I want to say it was Opti-seal but I'm not 100% accurate on that. Could that have hindered proper curing?

If I'm not mistaken it only  takes a drop or a few drops of each product of the Pro + to do an entire body panel. Is this correct? The installer told me he puts the product on thick. Can the coating be layered thin/thick like that? I'm fairly certain the installer verified in prior conversation that it doesn't take much product to do each panel. Now he says he's lucky to finish a vehicle without fear of running out.

I have one panel that was replaced due to a crash that needs product applied to it as it is naked at the moment. I spoke with Ron on the phone months ago and was told that an installer usually has remnants left over that could be used to do one panel. But my installer insists that he'll need/want to order a syringe or whatever the product comes in as he likes to use as much as he can and put it on heavy. He also states warranty as if each batch has a number that would have to coincide with my vehicle for warranty purposes. Does that matter? Does every reapplication need a SKU or registration number?

Now you see my hesitation to trust the installer. The info changes all the time. A little product goes a long way. We put it on thick. Optimum says you don't need to reorder an install kit. Installer says yes he does. And the whole time I'm sitting here wondering why I wasted my money. 

I wonder if this was installed properly to begin with. I will also state that I have been told by others in the car detail industry in the area that people who have had this same installer do their vehicle have taken their vehicle to another installer to be corrected as the applaiction was not done correctly. 

I'd like to talk to someone in Optimum to get some clear cut answers and direction. I don't want to be ripped off. I paid $1300 to have my one month old at the time vehicle coated with Pro +. It's turning out to be a decision I regret. 

 

Regards

[Ron@Optimum]

I'm not sure where to start - ALL coatings are susceptible to water spotting.  Because they are hydrophobic, water beads on the surface and when it evaporates can leave  mineral sediment behind.  The good news, water spots will not etch Opti-Coat Pro like they can manufacturers clear coat.  Vinegar is a simple way to remove, but there's a variety minerals and some require stronger chemicals.  Optimum MDR (Mineral Deposit Remover) is formulated to remove water spots.  If that doesn't work, Wheel Cleaner (Meguiars Hot Chrome for one) will remove the toughest water spots and will not damage your Coating.  Water spots should be dried as soon as possible to avoid baking on.

No Coating can protect against scratches nor do any suggest that.  And no Coating I'm familiar with states it's "self curing".  Light marring/swirling can be reduced/eliminated with Coatings.

Opti-Seal will not affect Opti-Coat's curing and does provide a sacrificial barrier.  Most vehicles only require 6 - 7mls or Opti-Coat for coverage, depending on what's coated.  Each Opti-Coat syringe has a registration number for warranty purposes, but installers might have product left or can get smaller amounts for repair jobs.  However, the OCP warranty does not apply to re-paints.

Feel free to call Optimum at 901-363-4955 and ask for Ron.

[KIM]

I’m having the same problems with etching or water spots.  I’ve tried all of Opti Coats products and nothing works.  The only thing I have not tried is Vinegar.  I’m really regretting my decision to have this product installed.  Any other info would greatly appreciated.

[Ron@Optimum]

have you tried the Wheel Cleaner suggested above, that's the most serious cleaner available?  Also, did you contact your Pro Installer, they should be able to help you?

[KIM]

I did try the wheel cleaner and the Ferrox.  Trying to get an appointment with my detailer.  It's very frustrating.  The car is garage kept and not a daily driver.  I don't understand how water can ruin my paint.  I have a 2003 Murano with no coating and no water spots!  I'll try vinegar after work today.  Thank you for responding.

 

[Ron@Optimum]

not to rain on your parade, but if MDR, and wheel cleaner didn't work, vinegar is unlikely to be successful.  Your paint should not be ruined and your installer should be able to fix it.  Water spots are a problem for all paint and there's not a single "type" of spot - hard water and the minerals differ by location - so there's not a single solution either.

[Tug Bankert]

I just want to remind those with pro + applied to their vehicle. Nature always wins even if you throw a coating into that fight. Pro + will definitely stand a much better chance but if you spray your car with a garden hose it will leave spots behind with or without a coating. 

To Kim with the 03 Murano, an uncoated older vehicle will not be looked at with the same criticism as a newer coated one. There may be water spots and scratches on it that you can't see. Even if it is in perfect condition is has no bearing on the other vehicle. No 2 cars are subjected to the same elements. 

Water spots will form on a coating but come off like a smudge on a mirror. Dilute wheel acid to 2:1, spray liberally on a good quality microfiber let it dwell for 10 seconds then wipe with onr dampened micro and inspect. Repeat if still visible. 

To crazytrucker, black vehicles are a gorgeous color when coated but you assume all potential issues when you choose that color - it shows everything whether good or bad. When dealing with an installer you don't trust or are not sure he is taking every step to help you please do not give up on having him fix the issue. He may have confused you with using a little bit or putting it on thick. None of that matters to you. It is irrelevant to the situation. What I would say to someone who took my hard earned $1,300 is, fix this issue or I will give you a 1-star review on every platform, as well as Facebook and I will call optimum to have you in question as to not addressing my issue. Send them emails as well to the same affect. 

Being an opti coat installer I know whereof I speak regarding customer service. I go out of my way to make sure my customers understand everything and I will go to the ends of the earth to remedy the problem. Make him do the same with a bit of heat from you. 

I hope this finds you to be useful and please let us know how everything turns out 😁😉👍

[Mr.Outback]

How well does Optimum Hyper-Seal block water spots from "sticking" to  OptiPro+ ?  

Also, seems good place to ask what other "third party coatings" might OptiPro+  quickly "shed"  ( consumer level ceramic/graphene spray "waxes"  from 303 and TurtleWax?  Waterless SIO2 infused car wash sprays like Rain-X and Megular's ? ).  I'd like to keep OptiPro+ working / looking as good as it can.

[Tug Bankert]

Bead maker works pretty good as a coating sealant. Hyper seal is better at protecting the coating from water spots

[Lowejackson]

7 hours ago, Mr.Outback said:

..... I'd like to keep OptiPro+ working / looking as good as it can.

 

For the least effort and most predictable results, I would stick with Hyper Seal.  Other products may or may not play well with the coating but Hyper Seal was designed to work with the OPT coating.  Of course you are free to try many other products and if you have money burning a hole in your pocket then start experimenting.

[Mr.Outback]

4 hours ago, Lowejackson said:

 

For the least effort and most predictable results, I would stick with Hyper Seal.  Other products may or may not play well with the coating but Hyper Seal was designed to work with the OPT coating.  Of course you are free to try many other products and if you have money burning a hole in your pocket then start experimenting.

No pocket burning money, but lack of detailing experience led to trying many different consumer products recommended by various detailing you tubers.  That's done now that Opti-Coat+'s on my car body, Glassparency's on its windshield. and Hyper Seal very soon once Opti-Seal's life has expired.

[Tug Bankert]

Opti seal only lasts about 7 days on pro plus

[Ron@Optimum]

Thanks Tug for your contributions - I know you're busy but input from a Pro Installer adds credibility to this forum.  And Lowejackson is always on point -

[Tug Bankert]

Ron, I'm not rely sure what you are referring to

[Tug Bankert]

Mr. Outback was talking about putting hyper seal once opti seal wore off. My point was opti seal only lasts a few days so there really is no need to wait long to put on hyper seal.