Where does MDR fall in a coating prep workflow?


paulgyro
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 4 months later...
On 11/27/2019 at 6:49 PM, paulgyro said:

I have a black BMW with water spots I'm preping to coat.

What should my workflow look like?

I'm guessing the following.

1) Pre-soak

2) Wash

3) Iron remover

4) Clay 

5) MDR?

6) Polish

7) Panel Prep

8 ) Coat

 

 

 

Bit late, but I personally would swap MDR and Claying. Reasoning: Get all your chemical decontamination done before you (optionally) start mechanical decontamination, which will cause marring. I would implement loooooong dwell times, then claying will hopefully be obsolete. Use a strong pressure washer as well, that helps.

There's a video on Opti-Coat's YouTube channel, called "Winter gets the decon" which is a good process to follow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, Heijneker said:

Bit late, but I personally would swap MDR and Claying. Reasoning: Get all your chemical decontamination done before you (optionally) start mechanical decontamination, which will cause marring. I would implement loooooong dwell times, then claying will hopefully be obsolete. Use a strong pressure washer as well, that helps.

There's a video on Opti-Coat's YouTube channel, called "Winter gets the decon" which is a good process to follow.

Good ole Adam Huber on winter gets the decon😁

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, Heijneker said:

Bit late, but I personally would swap MDR and Claying. Reasoning: Get all your chemical decontamination done before you (optionally) start mechanical decontamination, which will cause marring. I would implement loooooong dwell times, then claying will hopefully be obsolete. Use a strong pressure washer as well, that helps.

There's a video on Opti-Coat's YouTube channel, called "Winter gets the decon" which is a good process to follow.

Awesome thanks! I checked out the video and what you say makes sense.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
On 4/6/2020 at 5:18 AM, Heijneker said:

Bit late, but I personally would swap MDR and Claying. Reasoning: Get all your chemical decontamination done before you (optionally) start mechanical decontamination, which will cause marring. I would implement loooooong dwell times, then claying will hopefully be obsolete. Use a strong pressure washer as well, that helps.

There's a video on Opti-Coat's YouTube channel, called "Winter gets the decon" which is a good process to follow.

Heijneker, I did as you suggested and used MDR prior to claying (even though there were no water spot) and it made it so I didn't have to clay!  

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Heijneker said:

Nice! Great to hear it has worked that way, awesome. Thanks for giving the update. How did you use the MDR?

I used a foam applicator with MDR, applied to the paint, let it sit for a 2-3 minutes, washed off. Did the bag test and found no contamination. 

I tried a similar approach on my hood because of contamination, the hood being coated with CarPro CQuartz, leaving the MDR on for about 20 mins as I couldn't get the contaminated to leave.  I washed the hood to remove the MDR and found the coating to be DEAD.  I was shocked to see this. Have you heard of this before?  I thought MDR even with long dwell times was coating friendly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well there's your answer, sorry to hear the coating is gone. But time for something better I suppose 😉. Shows the power of MDR, love that stuff

Yeah same here Ron, of course a bit more time consuming than mitt Claying with Ferrex after Super Clean, but I think this can give a better clean, and pretty much ensures a clean sheet.

But claying is okay if you're polishing anyway I guess, and there's no coating on the car. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

50 minutes ago, Heijneker said:

Well there's your answer, sorry to hear the coating is gone. But time for something better I suppose 😉. Shows the power of MDR, love that stuff

Yeah same here Ron, of course a bit more time consuming than mitt Claying with Ferrex after Super Clean, but I think this can give a better clean, and pretty much ensures a clean sheet.

But claying is okay if you're polishing anyway I guess, and there's no coating on the car. 

Per Yvan before if you use a light / fine clay like the Optimum clay towel it doesn't mar so no need to worry about polishing.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

was going to add the coating may not be gone, may just be muted.  Different cleaners can reduce Gloss-Coat when over used - I don't believe MDR dwelling for 20 minutes + strips the coating but wouldn't be surprised at it effects durability (same is true for Power Clean, FerreX, etc - use reasonably and rinse thoroughly).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 9 months later...

Been watching the maintenance videos for Opti Coat+ from various sites and while helpful there seems to be some confusion. 

One site uses  ONR/Power Clean/Ferrex/MDR/Hyperseal in that order,  while the Optimum channel used Power Clean/Ferrex/MDR/ONR (didn't mention sealer) in that order.

I'm puzzled why ONR would be used before Power Clean, given Power Clean appears to be a more powerful remover of road grime, etc.

Would the Power Clean/Ferrex/MDR/ONR/Opti Seal be best approach for new Opti-Coat+ finishes,  switching to Hyperseal after Opti-Coat+ has fully cured ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share